Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) American Vietnam War 1963-1975

Old explosives found while digging water trenches for the rice fields in the DMZ.
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One of the best methods to travel from North to South in Vietnam is to purchase an Open Bus ticket ($20-30). This we did. Our first journey was a 14 hour overnight bus ride to Hue. We left Hanoi at 7 pm, but around 8 am we stopped in Dong Ha for some coffee and brekky. By the way, i have become a coffee maniac. It tastes amazing in Asia. I wake up craving it every morning. I always wondered what would lead me to develop a coffee addiction...I always assumed it wouldn't happen until law school (Yay Stanford!). But no, its happened here. Sorry, back to the main topic...Dong Ha. Here we were persuaded to get off the bus and explore the Demilitarized Zone. Now we were going to do this anyways once we arrived in Hue, but we were within kilometers of it all...so we thought what the heck. So along with four Australians we watched our bus leave for Hue. Its disappointing that most guide books discourage people from visiting the area unless they are history buffs. It is one of the most important aspects (especially for an American) of Vietnam's history.

The Americans back in the Observation Tower.
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Now as some of you know, I have been intrigued by the Vietnam War since a professor made me read literature on the subject a few years ago. Since then I divulged in books and the military channel specials. I still can't believe how little light teachers in high school shed on the war. We started off by going to one of the remaining Observation Towers built by the Americans south of the DMZ. Inside our guide showed me a single engraving that read 'California.' As I ran my hand over the word, I wondered who that soldier was. Everyone has a story. What was his? Even walking around the area (that is now cleared jungle thanks to the U.S. back in 1965) it was crazy to imagine American and South Viet soldiers treading the through with weapons in tow. I felt like I should have been listening to a classic 60's song. Flashes of Forrest Gump came to me. I remember feeling the same intrigue driving through the south of the U.S. regarding the confederate soldiers or the toils experienced around the Berlin wall while in Europe.  Gosh this stuff fascinates me so much, I should be a history teacher. Wish i had a teacher's patience.

Part of the actual Ho Chi Minh Trail.
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I felt mixed feelings while listening to our guide (who was a soldier in training before the war ended) remind us of America's...hmm we never quite call it defeat..but we all know that it wasn't victory.  Anyways, we walked along the Ho Chi Minh trail (where the North Vietnamese smuggled weapons for guerrilla warfare in the South). The trail went through Laos and Cambodia...sneaky sneaky. We also saw the National Cemetary where heroes, leaders, brave enlisted, drafted, and unknown soldiers have been layed to rest. 10,263 in total. Its strange to see the place of war that united the vietnamese and hurt the U.S financially, physically, and emotionally. Will we walk the streets of Baghdad like this one day?

The National Cemetary
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We stood on the Hien Luong Bridge over the Ben Hai river. The river was meant to be a two year temporary border from 1954-1956, but it lasted 21 years until 1975. Soldiers used to stand at the half way point engaging in friendly banter and swapping cigs. Before the hardcore propoganda campaigns of course! Many women waited on both ends of this bridge for husbands that would never return.

The Vinh Moc tunnel is the only underground tunnel (of 114) that remains. It has three levels ranging from 12 meters to 23 meters. 1st level for food, 2nd level for people, 3rd level for weapons. This province got hit the hardest with over 700,000 bombs throughout the course of the war. Often 500 people lived in these tunnels with only one bathroom to share. It was dark, damp, and cool down there. I could never imagine the fear experienced down there.

Standing on the Hien Luong Bridge over the Ben Hai River
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All in all the DMZ visit was unbelievable. Such a brutal war. Extreme heat and lots of mosquitos must have made this place seem like hell. Ironically, it is one of the most beautiful landscapes imaginable. I suppose there is some comfort in knowing that this alone may have created some joy amidst chaos.  When I visit the memorial wall in Washington D.C. in March, i'll have an even deeper respect than I could have had before.