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Bangalore - By heck it's busy

From Dan does Earth in Bangalore, India on Sep 25 '06

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After a fine breakfast it was time to pack and find a bus to Bangalore. This was far simpler than I'd expected, and the express bus was due to depart in 5 minutes when we got there. The seats were comfortable and there was even a bit of legroom! The 3 hours went quite quickly with a combination of book, music and scenery. There are some rather impressive rocks formations that are big enough to be small hills rising out of the almost flat plains that line the Mysore-Bangalore Road.

Bangalore is a city of about 7 million people and, although it's still India (I saw one chap selling 'fresh' fish right by a gutter that was pretty much an open sewer), there is an affluent, modern feel to some parts of the city. The hotel I chose is quite near the trendy MG road area and at about 1000rupees a night for a spotless and spacious double it is good value. I've acclimatised fully now and will not need air-con to sleep ever again. There's an old guy at reception who looks like the illustrated BFG from Roald Dahl's novel. He's not as tall (I'm almost a giant in India) but it's uncanny!

It's a big city, 'nuff said

I strolled around the city solo for a bit to find a beer and get orientated. After strugling to find an internet cafe I decided to head back and found one othe way. Lucky me!

In the eve Isabella din't want to go out, so I went to reception to see if Christophe and Sophie were staying here. They were, but Sophie had got ill from the pollution so I had a bite with Christophe and then got a beer and read 70 pages of my new book about counter-terrorism. It's fiction and a bit lightweight but seems well researched if not written. The pollution here is terrible and when I popped out to get said beer I could see the smog in the beams of the vehicle headlamps. It was thick like cigar smoke!

Next day...

The main reason I'd come to Bangalore was to see my younger (little isn't the right word) brother's friend Saya from when he was working in a petrol station in Aberdeen. Saya is a software engineer by trade and, having no luck in the UK, was in Bangalore trying to find a good job. As it happens I was forunate to meet him because he had just accepted a job in Mumbai, Banglore was dry as far as employment in his field goes.

There really isn't much to see in Bangalore. I've had my fill of Indian cities thank you very much and the pollution was starting to tickle my throat. I hadn't heard from him after emailing to say I was in Bangalore so went with Isabella to the Botanical Gardens. On the way we stopped off for breakfast at a local place. True to form I had masala dosa and it was simply superb; probably the best I've had so far. The place was packed on two floors with locals in various types of work attire and this was no fluke, they were there for the food.

After destroying said breakfast it was a short walk to the gardens. They were pretty and well maintained, but not particularly inspiring/inspired. It was a pleasant hour and a half stroll and certainly a welcome break from the fumes of hectic Bangalore streets. The rest of the day was slow and bumbling until dinner when we made our way to the trendy MG (Mahatma Gandhi) Road area and ate a the highest restaurant in Bangalore. The food was excellent, the beer cold, and the air far fresher than on ground level. The view from the veranda was ok too, but nothing special. I slept well on a full belly.

Next day...

It is the festival season in India which means that people are going home to their families, or going to towns of religious importance. It is also Ramadan which I don't think helps matters. Hindus make up the majority of the population with Muslims in second place numerically, so most of the country is rushing around at the moment. Trying to sort out transport from Bangalore to Hampi was, therefore, a nightmare. Eventually, after deciding that the witing list ticket for the train to Hampi (for which we had to queue) was not certain enough, we sought out bus information. A reasonable time in the government bus station made it clear that it would be better to go private. Queues were melees, and the usually helpful Indian public din't give two hoots. At only 50 rupees more to go private, and for a quicker journey in a sleeper, it was well worth it. 50 rupees is about 60p. This whole episode took just over 4 hours. Breathe and count to 10.

Afterwards I found Saya had made contact at the hotel so I called him and we agreed a place to meet while Isabella took a city tour. Saya was a really great guy, quiet, but interesting and with a sense of humour that indicated he'd been in Europe for a little while. He had kind words for Chris and was thankful to how welcoming he had been. That's my bro! After a coffee a stroll and a beer we agreed to keep in touch for when I visit Mumbai in a month or so.

I met Isabella at the hotel, we had a quick bite (well, I did) and went to get the bus. It turned out we were sharing a double, and despite being small she's a right space hogger. This, coupled with the usual rock n roll of a bus journey in India, meant I did not sleep well, if at all (not really sure, very tired).


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