Our last fortnight in Australia

Perth from the Swan River
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Our original intention for the Western Australia leg of our big trip had been to hire a car after a few days in Perth and drive down to the Margaret River wine region for a while. As it turned out, a mixture of being very content at the Duxton (nothing to do with the free drinks of course), finding that there’s actually quite a lot to do near the city, and in truth not feeling ready for a load more driving just prior to New Zealand (which will involve quite a lot of road work) resulted in us abandoning that idea and staying where we are. Good job too – we’ve had a great time and done lots, including experiencing Perth at its partying best on 26^th January – Australia Day.

Mmmm. Book shop...
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Last Sunday we headed off on the ferry to Fremantle, Perth’s main port and home to a fascinating mix of Sunday markets and buskers as well as a variety of cafes and bars. The journey from the city takes about an hour (which show’s just how far Perth centre actually is from the ocean) and passes all manner of multi-million dollar contemporary homes, old, new and under construction, usually with the most, well, expensive looking sea-going craft moored outside. Hardly surprising then that Perth now outstrips even Sydney for cost of living and millionaires per square metre (or however they measure it). Fremantle itself was well worth the visit and we enjoyed browsing, people watching (oh, go on, everyone does it!) and listening to the most accomplished street operatic soprano I think I’ve ever heard. (Anyone capable of performing a Puccini aria, whilst signing and selling copies of her CD, doing the necessary mental arithmetic, giving out change and greeting passers by has to have some talent!).

Super soprano
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We hired a car for three days too and explored the outskirts of the city. This included visiting several of the beaches north of Perth, spending most of the time taking in the sun at Cottesloe before mooching around the boutiques and delis in the town itself. Whilst the sea seemed a little cooler than on the East coast, it was no less inviting and was probably the bluest colour we’ve ever seen.

We also continued our tour of animal parks and spent some real quality time at Perth Zoo, and Caversham Wildlife Park too. At the latter, we were able to feed the orphaned and rescued kangaroos and wallabies in a large friendly enclosure whilst chatting to the keepers about their jobs and how they look after the creatures in their care. Yes, I know we’ve been to just about every wildlife establishment on three continents in the last 4 months, but nothing beats interacting with these fascinating characters. We’ll miss it when we get home.

Mum and white joey
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We’d been looking forward to visiting Rotnest Island which, again, is accessed by ferry (actually the same ferry as before to Fremantle and then change to another for the 25 minute ride to the island). It’s a two hour trip both ways and when you get there, the island itself is beautiful with loads of small secluded sunny bays, the translucent waters we’ve almost come to take for granted…and hoards and hoards and hoards of people everywhere you go. And there’s the rub. Much as we love this piece of Australia, it does seem to fall in to two categories. You have Perth itself which is pristine, tidy, beautifully maintained but actually a little sterile, as if it could be anywhere. Then you get everything on the coast which is, frankly, a bit tacky and in danger of becoming a little spoiled despite its natural beauty. Anyway – end of digression – Rottnest, minus its downmarket interpretation of ‘Centre Parcs’ type approach which just hasn’t worked here, was very nice but getting round on the less than punctual bus was painful and we felt at the end of an exhausting day that we’d done lots of waiting, travelling and more waiting, but hadn’t really achieved anything of note.

Cheeeeesssse
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The temperatures here have been steadily rising during our stay and

culminated in one of the hottest days we’ve ever experienced on 26^th January

(still 41 degrees at 6pm!)  â€“ Australia Day. This is the public holiday which is

there purely and simply to celebrate all things Aussie. And what a party it was.

The Swan Bell Tower
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All day. Finishing with a huge firework display on the Swan River at 9pm that

night. The sheer enthusiasm of the Aussies was fantastic to see. You know

how it is in England when we have a picnic – we turn up with our M&S carrier

bags and maybe a cool box? Not here. They back up with their ute (Oz for

I thought this was a holiday!
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utility vehicle or station wagon), offload the generator, the fridges, the electric

cool boxes, the stereo with banks of outdoor speakers, and – wait for it – the

Jacuzzi!! No kidding – see the photos. We spent most of the day sat watching

the all-day cricket matches and beer-drinking, just managing to avoid the odd

Australia Day fireworks
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clout round the ear with a stray cricket ball … and that was before they found out we were poms.

We’re leaving Perth – and Australia - tomorrow after around three months experiencing life on this island, often being dismissed as a bloody tourist, sometimes being confused for a local, but always being welcomed. Have we enjoyed it? To use the vernacular, what do you bloody think???

Next stop New Zealand. Watch this space…