Barranco, where the city meets the sea.

Sunset from Barranco
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The beautiful coastal district of Barranco, a once upper class turned artsy bohemian and tourist/entertainment area is a must see for visitors to Lima - especially those for whom the cities lack of status as a tourist destination has them disinclined to explore it too deeply.

The hostel at which my partner, a friend and I stayed during our time there was ‘Barranco’s Backpackers Inn’. Given the prices touted by our taxi driver for the less than salubrious looking hostels in the strip mall like zone of Miraflores (which, I have heard, has more attractive beachside areas than what we saw) we found it to be more than reasonable. Dorm beds were US$10 (US$22 for a double room), continental breakfast was provided, and the door to the establishment was 20 meters from a cliffs edge overlooking vast ocean to the left and a steep canyon tiered by descending levels of bars and restaurants, beautifully laid out to the right.

Lollypop slime blasted from the doors and windows

Plaza De Barranco
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Soon after our arrival, descending the canyons steep staircase, past the bars and restaurants, we arrived at a lookout graced with a beautiful view of the beach, the ocean and, behind, the relatively appealing visage of the hospitality establishments above. After a brief discussion with some young drunk Peruvians on surfing and travel, we climbed to the lowest tier of this hospitality zone where we experienced a spectacular view of the setting sun, some nice cold beverages and relaxing conversation.

A mechanical carnivore, City Centre
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At the top of the canyon, heading directly inland from the lookout we came across a food market selling a smorgasbord of sweet and savoury Peruvian goodies – of which we could not help but partake.

The entertainment district of Barranco, inland, across the street from the market, huddles around the plaza (a typically well manicured, South American affair, with grass lawns, a water feature and colourful flowers) and extends along converging streets. The buildings the bars occupy, and that makeup the residential area fanning out from here, are large, beautiful and ancient testimonies to Barrancos well to do past.

Urban warfare, City Centre
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An old mansion come bar, looking on to the plaza, provided many a regal chill out room and a massive hall filled with travellers and locals dancing, but the music was happy hard house trance (or something to that effect) and we couldn’t do it.

We decided to make it our mission to find some locally brewed Latin music untainted by the ever present US based, Spanish speaking, Latin Pop presently smothering the Americas. This was not easy. Lollypop slime blasted from the doors and windows of an abundance of discothèques advertised by cute teenage girls in almost non-existent figure hugging outfits. Playing simultaneously in about five different establishments were “Tengo la Camisa Negra” and “Gasolina”, two songs I have, and had, heard literally thousands of times. They unfortunately are songs that instil in me a kind of rage that would have me, were I not constrained by social mores and sentimentality for white fluffy things, biting the heads off chickens.

We did find one bar overlooking the plaza with a great, old style, Latin band playing, however. The singer was an old diva, a very big lady, with a voice like Nina Simone. Her band, a bunch of classy geriatrics (the aging population possibly being the last remnant of the infamous Latin soul), was electric, but the place was packed so we couldn’t get a seat.

We settled for a few beers on a pleasant bar balcony over looking a pedestrian street, where we met some fellow travellers and past the night away in animated conversation beneath the branches of an overhanging (tum tum :-)) tree, as a cool breeze blew on our faces.

We visited the cities centre the following day.

Plaza De Armas is a must see. The ornate carvings of the Archbishop’s Palace, Government Palace and the Cathedral guild the lawns and dazzling colourful flower beds of the central park like a kings prized golden belt. Walking down a side street we stumbled upon a military tank and its soldier pilot. As tanks in urban environments are a morbid fascination of mine, I acquired the soldier’s permission and photographed the phenomenon.

Lima has many attractions like the National Museum of Archaeological, Anthropology and History, the Gold Museum, religious sites and much more, but we were to return to Lima before flying out of South America so did not strain ourselves to see too much.

Our stay was short. We left for Venezuela after a day and a half in the city.