Lugu Lake 泸沽湖

Lugu Lake
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I have come back to Chengdu from Lugu Hu (Lake) 泸沽湖 today. I took a night-train and a day-bus to arrive Lugu Lake for 25 hrs non-stop. It's perhaps the most tiring journey up to this moment coz I couldn't sleep well on the hard seat overnight train which followed by the bumpy bus journey on the next day.

However, when I first saw Lugu Lake in the morning, I realized that this journey is worthwhile. Lugu Lake is situated in the Sichuan-Yunnan provincial border at the altitude of 2600m. The area is inhabited by the Mosuo tribe 摩梭族, a branch of the Naxi tribe 纳西族. Lugu Lake has the nickname of “Women's Kingdom” 女儿国 as it is one of the few matriarchies which still exist in China today. The Mosuo women are the master of the family and their husbands are only occasional visitors of the family. It sounds good for man, right? But at the same time a woman can have more than one husband too. So, it's fair, isn't it? There is no binding relationship between man and woman. Many tourists are attracted here by this special marriage custom so-called "Walking Marriage" 走婚习俗. Lugu Lake is no doubt a beautiful and tranquil lake especially when there are not too many tourists around.

one of the few matriarchies which still exist in China today

Naxi Family
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I went with a tour to visit the Snake Island in the center of the lake, the grass sea and a view point. Then we had a bonfire party at night with tradionally dressed Mosuo and Naxi villagers dancing and singing all night.

On the next day, I stayed in a Naxi family in the Sichuan side and they led me to a cave at the mid-slope of the Mt. Lion (at 3700m) which is worshiped as the God Mountain of the Lake. We hiked for three hours thro the forest to get to the cave. Though the route was unclear and steep, we rewarded with the spectacular view of the whole lake. I could watch the lake without the disturbance from other tourists at this height. The cave, according to my Naxi friend, is 300-400m long. We only went thro the front part and didn't go deep because we didn't have enough equipment.

Boat Trip
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On the third day, I took photos with my Naxi friend and his family. Then they row me with a canoe to the Yunnan side of the lake early in the morning. That day was the most beautiful day during my visit in Lugu Lake. The sun was just rising up and most tourists were still sleeping. Yunnan side is more developed and touristy. I prefer the Sichuan side because it is more rural, quiet and with less tourists. The villagers are more simple and friendly too.

I come back from another route from the Yunnan side: from Luo Shui 落水 to Panzhihua 攀枝花 and then to Xi Chang 西昌 and finally back to Chengdu 成都. The roads in Yunnan side are much better and that's why they have more tourists.

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I enjoyed my Lugu Lake trip very much and met a lot of Chengdu friends there and on the way back. If anyone likes to go to Lugu Lake in future, I recommend you go to the Sichuan side although the journey is more exhausting. My next destination will be Songpan 松潘.