Mummy!

A Mummy.
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I learnt this the hard way - that you have to ask more than one person the same question to get the right answer.  Everyone has different opinions and no-one seems to say the thing so if you want, for example, to find out what times the collectivos go from, say, Chachapoyas to Leimebamba, you should ask approximately 25 people and then average the answers.

I didn't.  So, if you happened to be in Chachapoyas at 6am on Wednesday morning you would have found me wandering around, slightly tired, with my bags looking for a non-existent collectivo.  The collectivos only leave at 12pm and 4pm.  I went back to bed.

Close up of Mummy's head.
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Met a couple of Peruvians who worked for the Nacional Office of Elections on the collectivo and I spent the rest of the day with them.  They showed me around Leimebamba and told me where you can buy the best yoghurt in Peru (it is good and it comes from the shop on the corner next to the church, if you happen to be passing).  Somehow, over dinner, we got into a discussion about agricultural subsidies.  Now, my Spanish isn't exactly what you'd call 'fluent' but everyone only looked mildly confused after I'd explained what a subsidy was in broken Spanish.

Different mummy. Quite cool or disturbing, depending on your point of view.
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The next morning was spent wandering around the museum (see the pics of the mummies for the highlights) and the afternoon saw me wandering up to La Congona, a set of ruins on a hill about 2 1/2 hours walk from Leimebamba.  There was no-one else at the ruins and although not spectacular they were pretty good.  The walk was pretty tiring but the views impressive.