3 days in the jungle

mariposa
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We arrived in Puerto Maldonado about 9am after a flight of only 30mns (the other choice was the 20-60 hr bus ride - the length of time changed depending on the conditions and who you asked).  We were greeted by our guide, Berly and taken to the lodges office in town.  Since we had to wait for the boat to come and pick us up (there are no roads past the town), we went to the local market where we picked up some Brazil nuts and Ning bought another bracelet.

Finally we got on the boat and made our way to the lodge.  Since we just booked this trip at the place we were at without doing any research, we had no idea about all the options in this area, but I think its a pretty good one.  It was a comfortable place with lots of activities and a great french chef (which meant that we didn't get to eat any local food - bummer - but since there is no menu to choose from I guess they need to make the food neutral).  It also was the first lodge you come to and near the river Madre de Dios's shore, about half hour boat ride from PM.  So there was easy access.  That afternoon we talk a walk into the jungle with Berly and 8 others who joined us.  He pointed out the flora and some birds.  Lots of interesting stuff.  Then he gave us a choice, to either stay and look some more or leave early so we could hike back to the river to watch the sunset.  For some reason, the big family group of 6 chose to watch the sunset.  It was our first clue that they don't get out much.

After breakfast we started out on our long day into the jungle. The first stop was monkey island where we passed people panning for gold, took a nice little hike, and saw exactly zero monkeys. Oh well, on to Lake Sandoval.

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After a quick rest and before dinner, we took a boat ride to find caimen along the shore.  Flashing his light, Berly found us a bunch.  I got only one blurry photo.  But we saw a lot of them.  They scoot into the water as soon as the boat comes near so you have to be quick. The way to spot them is to flash the floodlight and look for the red eyes.  Berly got quiet for a minute and flashed the light crazily.  Then he told us he had seen an ocelot!  Later while I was asking him a question, a girl from the family cried out "is that a couger???"  It turned out to be a dog.

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We had a great dinner and then an early sleep because the next morning was birds at 5.45am.  At least being back down to only 150m above sea level, we could breathe again!

In the morning we walked about 40mns to a little shelter with some holes for us to peer out.  On the other side of the river was just a high river bank of mud - called a clay lick.  Berly told us that the birds would gather in the trees then come down to the clay lick to eat the salt and minerals.  Sure enough,  a few minutes later, the noise in the trees got louder and louder and eventually hundreds of parrots and parrokeets descended onto the clay lick in a noisy feast.   Two batches left quickly in huge groups a little later, but we didn't notice any animal that spooked them.  Finally, the last batch took off in a dramatic swoop and we walked back for breakfast.

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After breakfast we started out on our long day into the jungle.  The first stop was monkey island where we passed people panning for gold, took a nice little hike, and saw exactly zero monkeys.  Oh well, on to Lake Sandoval.

Lake Sandoval was a 5km hike from the river with a stop at the ranger station to register and listen to all the rules.  It was a nice but long walk and I got some good pictures along the way.  We stopped at another lodge near the lake and had our boxed lunches.  The rest was welcome.

tuk tuk?
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Finally we descended on the lake, an oxbow lake, which means it was once a part of the madre de dios river, but is now isolated since the river changed course.   Berly spotted the Giant River Otters right away so we got into the row boat and went out to see them.  They were cool to watch- just swimming along in a straight line and occasionally going under water for a minute or two and then coming up with some fish.  You could see them holding onto the fish and taking bites out of it.  There are three families of them at lake sandoval.  After a while, we rowed back in and went for a swim -- in the same water with pirhanna!  Berly assured us we'd be okay since no one was bleeding.  The water was great, very refreshing and there were some nice warm spots just like a hot springs.

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After that we got back in the boat at took a liesurly ride accross the lake and back to the trail - so it was only 3km walk back to the river.  Along the way we stopped at the otter den and saw them getting ready for the night.  We came across some heron, and lots of other birds including macaw flying overhead (always).  then came the monkeys.  Seeing some leaves shaking in the distance, Berly rowed us over and we saw a group of monkeys moving through the trees and eating.  Just like the otter, only this time in the tree tops instead of under water.

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Finally we made it back to the trail.  A long walk back in the rapidly decreasing daylight got us all worried , but Berly had it timed perfectly and we all got back safely.  Then it was back to the lodge for a shower and rest before dinner.

The last day, was just me and ning and berly, as the other groups had left.  We decided to take a trip to a conservancy and take a walk in the trees.   After another hike we made it to the bridge.  It was a metal walkway up to the canopy more than 50m above.  Walking up along the swaying walkway and having the metal cracking and bending below all the while - truly scary!!  The last 20m was at a 60 degree angle.  I was almost like climbing a ladder.  The top was worth it though, although I questioned whether I really wanted to try to make it down or was going to stay up there forever.  The twenty billion insects up there helped me to choose the former.

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We spent some time up there and saw a few birds.  It was too late and too hot to see too many, but we got to see a couple of new and colorful types.  We followed the call of a couple toucans on the way back, but never got a glimpse of them.

After lunch we took a look at the animals at the conservancy and the animals they were getting ready for release back into the jungle.  We saw macaws, monkeys, tapirs, pheasants, an ocelot, and a jaguar.  The ocelot and jaguar were both very aggressive, which is a good sign for them.  Scary to think of ever stumbling across one in the wild.  The first thing the jaguar did was jump about 10 feet across the cage at us.

the tarantula outside our room
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The last activity was to check out a farm.  It was nice too.  They were showing local people how to raise goats.  Rather than one cow, a farmer can raise 6 goats and get more milk and meat for the same cost.  The farm also grew coffee, pineapples, papaya, plantains, banana, chili, coconuts, and some other stuff i can't remember.

Finally it was back to the lodge for dinner, some more stargazing and rest before our long last day in Peru