Kyrenia

Outside the Mosque
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Our Kyrenia trip was the first time most of us had crossed the boarder from the Greek side of Cyprus over to the Turkish side.

We had spent many hours during orientation being educated on the conflict between the Greek and Turkish Cypriots prior to this. It really begins when the island came under British rule as a British Crown colony. Attempts by Greek Cypriots to break free of British colonial rule and unite with Greece, so-called Enosis, triggered an attack against the Greek minority in Istanbul. This led to an extended period of tension between the two ethnic groups. This all culminated when Turkey invaded Cyprus after unsuccessfully trying to get support from one of the other guarantor forces - Britain. Heavily armed troops landed shortly before dawn at Kyrenia on the northern coast. By the time a ceasefire was agreed three days later, Turkish troops held 3% of the territory of Cyprus. Five thousand Greek Cypriots had fled their homes. By the time the UN Security Council was able to obtain a ceasefire the Turkish forces had only secured a narrow corridor between Kyrenia and Nicosia, which they succeeded in widening during the next few days in violation of that ceasefire. At a conference on 14 August 1974, Turkey demanded from the Cypriot government to accept its plan for a federal state, and population transfer, with 34% of the territory under Turkish Cypriot control. Only hours after this request was denied, Turkey began their second attack. Turkish troops rapidly occupied even more than was asked for at Geneva. Thirty-six-and a-half per cent of the land came under Turkish occupation reaching as far south as the Louroujina salient. In the process, Greek Cypriots who made up 82% of the population in the north became refugees; many of them forced out of their homes, the rest fleeing at the word of the approaching Turkish army.The ceasefire line from 1974 today separates the two communities on the island, and is commonly referred to as the Green Line. People are now allowed to cross the Green Line with a passport to do so. Interestingly enough, however they are not permitted to stamp your passport when crossing the line, as an official stamp would justify the Turkish side as its own entity. Currently it is not recognized as a valid occupation or state by the rest of the world. The Turkish side still wants to feel important though, so they stamp a piece of paper and slide it into your passport instead.

a few of us have joked that we don't know what they ever talked about before

No shoes inside!!
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The Greek Cypriots all love to talk about this, and a few of us have joked that we don't know what they ever talked about before. Perhaps it is just self-selecting with the people who choose to assist in our program here in Cyprus. They all seem to be very active in the community, and this might make them especially keen to discuss such a politically central topic. It is such a personal subject for them, that feeling of having lost a part of themselves, their history, their culture, and their land. It is hard not to empathize with the many Greek Cypriots who talk of fleeing their homes and businesses. They explain the loss they feel over Turkish Cypriots unjustly occupying land that rightly belongs to Greeks, land that belonged to their elders.

Me trying to be a photographer...Merry trying to be photographed
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When we crossed to the Turkish side, nothing really looked particularly different initially. The buildings had the same architecture, the ground was the same dusty brown with little grass scattered around. The mountains were the same ones we watched from our apartment balcony, they were merely closer. However, when you took a closer look you began to notice subtle differences. Men walked the streets dressed in Turkish military uniforms, and the language on the streets and shops changed. No longer were we viewing a Greek alphabet, but a Turkish one emerged instead. The cost of goods decreased, and the number of markets we passed increased. Of course the kind of religious institutions changed from Greek Orthodox to Mosques instead.

We made a pit stop in the mountains
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We walked through the Turkish side of Nicosia, through a market and on to a mosque. Removing our shoes to be able to enter, it kind of hit me how surreal this whole experience is. Once inside, I wished I knew more about the religion and the significance of all of the symbols. It made me excited for visiting the Vatican later in the trip, and being able to really understand the meanings of all the elaborate intricacies.

Moving on through the mountains we finally made it to Kyrenia after a long winding, hot bus ride. Shortly before our arrival I was starting to think that sitting in the back of the bus may not have been the best choice.

The harbor
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In Kyrenia the first thing we did was grab lunch. We split up into smaller groups and Merry, Jason, Stephanie, Kate, and I ate lunch at the harbor. It was a beautiful day and the setting was equally beautiful. I found myself understanding what exactly the Greek Cypriots had lost on this part of the island, and I almost felt guilty for enjoying it.

All in all it was a great day…so interesting to experience the other part of the culture here on the island.