No english anywhere

First of many temple areas
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Today was a difficult one for me. I woke up and had a lovely hot shower and enjoyed a delicious western style breakfast beautifully prepared by my innkeeper. From there I headed to the station and caught the correct train and then....

It stopped. Lots of Japanese messages, overhead paging. No english, no english writing on the walls. People were getting off and then back onto the train. I had no idea what was going on. After about thirty minutes, I asked the man next to me who said there was a problem and it may be awhile. He started to tell me that perhaps I should take the subway to get to Kyoto. I perfered to sit and wait as I knew where I was going on the train. To get off would mean entering a part of Japan not frequented by tourists and therefore even more unlikely to have english directions.

This I have to admit was exhilarating; thinking that perhaps I was passing off as a local.

Gorgeous views
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After awhile I resigned that the train wasn't going to start again, and the kind gentleman offered to show me to the subway. As we were about to depart from the station, another overhead page announced something and he told me I could get back on the train. Thank goodness!

With an hour delay I arrived in Kyoto. Into a huge station. Very modern, very new, very hard to navitage. That sums up my day attempting to enjoy the sights in Kyoto. After a frustrating start trying to find the bike rental, I was on my way a bit hunched on the small bike but with a handy basket. I headed to the east and north to the first very large temple. The first of many, many temples. I had a hard time reading my english maps and because of this had no confidence of my location. It was quite stressful constantly feeling like I was lost. I was unable to match myself to the map because the signs in Kyoto rarely have english. It was my first not so pleasant test in being totally immersed in an area without any english whatsoever to guide me.

Hadn't seen one like this yet
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I used my biking legs to take me up into the parks. There was a grand view that started to calm me despite the crowds. Crowds I had been searching for to assure me that I wasnt lost and then once I found them, they made me feel very alone. I dont think I spotted another solo traveler all day. It was a long day.

I did my best to enjoy the sights, but my mood wasnt so great. I reminded myself to drink water and started to fill my small bottle at the toilet stations. The day was beautiful and sunny and as time went on I got slightly more confident about possibly actually knowing where I was on the map.

Road leading up to temple. I biked up and down a different one similiar to this but not as busy.
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Eventually, a Japanese man asked me if I spoke english when I was unlocking my bike. I said yes and we began to talk. He weirded me out a bit, but he said he had studied in New York and could help point out sights I should check out. I probably shouldn't have stayed listening since something told me he was a bit odd, but I needed some help. He assured me that I was where I thought I was and gave me a route for the rest of the day and tomorrow. After a few minutes, he gave me his phone number and asked if I would join him that night. Fortunately, I was able to gracefully decline and head on my way. He had a cute dog with him, but she appeared to be too thin and scared, always with her tail between her legs. I didnt think that was a good sign either.

Beautiful garden
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I continued along on my bike and saw a few more sights riding along a very peaceful `Philosophers Path`. There was one last large temple area I wanted to catch but just missed the closing by about thirty minutes. I had to get the bike back by 7pm and although it was only a little after 5 I wanted to make sure I got back on time. It had also begun to get dark.

My descent back to the station area began. I had no idea I had traveled so far north. Kyoto is a much larger city than I had understood it to be. I made it to the river and rode alongside it. The Japanese dont appear to have too many biking rules. Everyone rides on the sidewalk along with the pedestrians even when there clearly isn't room for both. I just tried to stick with the crowd. As time went on, I saw less and less foreigners. In fact, I didnt see another other Westerner on a bike after the last tourist destination. This I have to admit was exhilarating; thinking that perhaps I was passing off as a local. I was able to spot the man made beach along the river:very cool. I hopped off my bike for a quick stop in the Nikishi Food District hoping to catch a quick bite of something from a food stall, but it turned out to be a very trendy area of restaurants and bars all tucked away in tiny alleyways. I felt like I was truly in Asia.

Where I bought my dinner
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Back on the main roads, I had less than an hour to return the bike. I was following the map just fine until I got seriously turned around. There was a moment of panic when I couldnt find the intersection I was at on the map. Eventually I had to ask a fellow biker if he/she spoke english. They did! She/he (I honestly couldnt tell!)pointed me in the right direction. When I came to yet another large intersection, I asked two more young Japanese people also on bikes. They also spoke english (thank God!) and told me they were also going to the station. They let me follow them. I was finally able to relax a bit. I returned my bike and went to find a toilet at the station.

The odd yet helpful Japanese man said they filmed Tom Cruise in The Last Samauri here.
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My first non western tiolet, squatting mishap: I totally faced the wrong way. It was stupid, but I was tired and stressed. All I can say is I learned my lesson. 　Hopefully there wont be too many issues with that in the future.

I had some time before catching the train back to my inn and decided to get some food in the mall attached to the huge station. `Ramen` restaurants were located on the tenth floor and I had my first introduction to food fending machines attached to small kitchens. The whole floor was a different type of food court. Tiny restaurants with small lines. I picked a place to get some food quickly just pointing at a dish. Turns out is contained balls of some kind of fish concoction. Pretty good.

Massive gravestone area, extended much farther up the mountainside
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I am now safe and warm in mï½™ inn using my innkeeper`s computer again. So kind. We chatted about my experiences today and it felt good to share.

Tomorrow will be another trip to Kyoto. I am hoping more confidence will make it a happier day.