Mihintale
From Sri Lanka - Pearl of the Indian Ocean in Mihintale, Sri Lanka on Nov 11 '07
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Mihintale was not part of my plans but the book on Anuradhapura insisted that it was critical for an understanding of Sri Lankan Buddhism. The story is that Mihin, the son of an Indian king, was in Sri Lanka trying to convert people to Buddhism (from Jainism and Hinduism). By coincidence he met the king on this spot and converted him .. naturally the rest of the people followed the king’s recommendation. This was in 247 BC. Buddhism later died out (or at least died down) in India and Sri Lanka became the de facto centre for Buddhism and the place from which it spread to Thailand and other parts of Asia.
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There are caves dating back to 250 BC and inscriptions in Brahmin, Pali and other languages in use before Sinhalese was invented. Some of those early letters look at bit like Greek letters (possibly the Brahmin). Most buildings on this site dates from the 10th Cent AD and there are a couple of ghastly additions from the past 50 years.
Cradle of Buddhism in Sri Lanka
The Cobra Pond gets its name because the rock into which it was built hangs over the pond like a cobra hood. This pond fed both the Alms House (there was an large monastic community here in addition to solitary monks meditating in the caves) and a shower for monks .. down the hill from the Cobra Pond. Even today the water is clean and pure ; the pond is fed by springs from the rock and rainwater running down the rock face.
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My driver had paired me up with a local guide (I normally resist that sort of thing, but time was of the essence). This man really knew the spot, was low key and informative. Two Western monks (one American) were touring the site using a book and notes but they missed several spots and he was able to help them.
We got right to the top of the rock at Mihintale .. the site of Mahoney Dagoba which houses Mihin's relics. the building up there are just 'OK' but the view very impressive indeed. The guide pointed out the boundary line between us and the Tamil Tigers in the north ; it had good views of Anuradhapura (7 miles away) and various reservoirs, forests and mountains.
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One interesting thing the guide showed me .. there was a Bodhi tree in the centre of the compound and he took a dead leaf from the ground, folded it in half and there is the outline for the Dagoba (or pagoda or stupa ..). This place is special and very beautiful ; I am glad I made the detour..
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