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Editors Pick

El Calafate and Perito Moreno Glaciar

From Buenos Knockers Señor Rooter in El Calafate, Argentina on Jan 11 '07

Craig & Jo has visited no places in El Calafate
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The lake of the Glacier
The lake of the Glacier
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Got into El Calafate and went straight to our hostel we had booked in advance.  Calafate was much more to our liking, similar to Bariloche in that it is situated on a blue lake with the accompanying snow capped mountains but the town is smaller than Bariloche and better for it, people seemed nicer and although prices were similar didn't bother us as much for some reason.

Spent an hour with one of the hostel staff sorting out our plans for the next week or so, they were a great help and for the first time in a while we had a clue about what we were going to do next.  If you ever end up in El Calafate stay at Hostel America Del Sur, but book ahead.

That night partook of the Mixed Grill (Parrillada) that the hostel put on, 30 pesos for pretty much all the meat you can eat and then some, as well as beer and wine.  Sat up chatting to some Israeli girls over a few glasses of Argentinean red then hit the hay in anticipation of out trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier the next day.

Got up around 7am a little bit rusty and got our first view of the Glacier around 9:30am.  It was absolutely spectacular especially as the previous record for most ice I've seen in one place was the chilly billy ice freezer at the Strath servo.  It was quite a lot bigger than that, it had a sheer face of ice around 60m high and according to wikpedia around five km wide (I would have said less than that, but who am I to argue with wikpedia) and stretches back into the distance 30km.

A splash generated from a big bit of ice breaking away
A splash generated from a big bit of ice breaking away
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Got off the bus and walked around the lake shore to approach the glacier from a different direction (assume this is why it was called the alternative tour).  The lake itself was very impressive a colour blue that is very hard to describe....just a very light blue...almost seemed unnatural, wouldn't be surprised if it glows in the dark.   This according to our guide is something to do with particles of glacier dust? permanently suspended in the water...Not really sure if that's right as we weren't really paying attention and were lagging behind the rest of the group a fair way.

The boat we went on later
The boat we went on later
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Then just to make the whole experience even better not only do you have an amazingly blue lake and a monstrous chunk of ice it just happens to be ringed by more snow capped mountains...anyway enough....better to look at the pictures.

Walked up to the Glacier face...well not right up to it as there was still a substantial bit of lake between us and the face.  Probably a good thing as we were fortunate enough to see the Glacier Calve quite a few times which is spectacular and usually involves a crack like a rifle shot as a piece of ice the size of a volkswagon breaks away then a huge boom and splash as it hits the lake.

After that we went up to the viewing platforms where all the people who aren't mavericks and don't do the walk go to straight away.  The platforms were pretty good and got to see the Glacier from a heap of different angles and even managed to get a few photos in between the hordes of tourists.

Finally took the boat out which sails across the face of the glacier, from memory that was just after Jo did another pretty good stack down the bus steps.  The boat goes as close as 300m to the face which believe me is close enough with big chunks of ice dropping every now and again and was another good perspective but by the end we were a bit glaciered out and Jo was getting grumpy.

Will finish by saying that the Glacier was probably one of the most spectacular things we have ever seen.  Personally for me it is probably second behind Jo's stack in Quito.


Craig & Jo avatar Craig & Jo on Jan. 23, 2007 @ 01:26AM said
Hi Sam tough question, favourite places are as you would know pretty subjective and have a hell of a lot to do with who you meet and who you're with. Eg we loved Arequipa in Peru because we were hanging out with a great bunch of people at the Point Hostel but the town itself aint that exciting. From all the people we've talked to in our travels the consensus as far as countries go is Colombia, Argentina and Bolivia (they are all completely different but great in their own way), so would definitely recommend you schedule the majority of your time in these three countries and fly through the others. Personally for us we absolutely loved Colombia it's got it all, Beaches, Mountains, Great People and most importantly loads of good Hostels and Bars. We didn't do the lost city trek as we were all trekked out by that stage of the trip but have heard good reports. There are loads of small places in Colombia such as Villa De Leyva and San Gil that you MUST got to and relax for a bit after tearing it up in Bogota and Medallin. As far as not liking so much... Brazil was one, an absolute money sink and hard to get around with the Portuguese, wish we hadn't gone..don't get me wrong it's probably a great place but too expensive to get around if you're on a budget. Well could ramble on forever but your best bet is to find the good social hostels (eg Centro Del Mundo in Quito, Loki or The Point in Cusco, Darmajiana in Mendoza Argentina it's unreal, Milhouse or Limehouse in BA, Black Sheep in Medallin and Hostel Sue in Bogota just to name a few) hook up with some people or at least talk to other people there and plan your trip as you go....you may only want to spend a few days in these places then move somewhere quieter as you'll find yourself drinking everyday if you have will power similar to ours. Oh south of Argentina and Chile is amazing...expensive and you have to book everything in peak season which is very annoying but worth it. Finally as you already know the Animal Park is a must and the best thing we've ever done. Hope that helps a little bit. Cheers Craig
Sam Dunger avatar Sam Dunger on Jan. 23, 2007 @ 01:26AM said
Hi there, I'm the girl who asked about the animal sanctuary in Bolivia, cheers for your reply. I've just taken a look at your route and you guys went pretty much to all the places that my boyfriend and I are going. I need to have a good read of your site when I have some time, but if you could say, what was the best part of the trip? Did you do the Lost City trek from Santa Marta in Colombia? Where do you wish you had more time and where di you not like so much? It would be really interesting to hear from you two, Sam
Sam Dunger avatar Sam Dunger on Jan. 23, 2007 @ 01:26AM said
Wow, thanks for the response! I see what you mean about it being subjective, all my friends have loved Brazil and not been as keen on Bolivia, so I guess half the fun is finding out where you like, and moving swiftly on from where you don´t! I´ll be looking up the hostels you recommended though, ad I think we´ll definatly be going to the animal sanctuary... Sam

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