Chitwan National Park

Arrived in Chitwan National Park after a 6 hour spine crunching bus journey from Pokhara. This time we were not on the 'tourist bus', but a local bus for local people. (That said everyone on it was a tourist!) The bus was a little dodgy. No legroom (Nepalese are not the tallest) and the seats were knackered! Needless to say so were we by the time we got to our destination.

Checked into a place overlooking the jungle and a stones throw (if you were Fatima Whitbread) from an elephant breeding centre. The sounds of elephants at it is quite terrifying. (Or at least thats what it sounded like they were doing). It was a lovely peaceful location. The accommodation was in a traditionally built bamboo and mud hut with squat bog and thatched roof. Nice really. Just very quiet.

We visited the elephant centre and got a pony and trap into the nearest town. The ride was stunning with the Himalayas fading into the darkness in the distance and a sky full of stars.The 'town', Sauraha, which like everywhere else in the last few weeks, was fairly empty. We had a lovely valentines meal outdoors and pony and trap back to the mud hut.

Got up at dawn, yet again (we seem to get up before dawn for some activity every day!) and headed to our elephant ride through part of the jungle. I say jungle, but it was more like a British woodland in parts. It felt a bit surreal, you wouldnt expect to see Ray Mears in Duffryn woods or Indiana Jones in the New Forest. So I couldnt get my head around the fact that we were sharing the habitat with Rhinos, Wild Boar, Deer, Crocodile and Peacocks. It all seemed a bit out of place. After lumbering through the jungle / forest woods for half an hour we began to get cold adn were wondering whether the animals were going to come out to play. Then within the space of 25mins we saw a whole host of creatures, including Crocs, Deer, Boar and all manner of bizarre birds. The highlight was being within 4m of a Rhino and her Calf.

Nothing quite topped that and after our transport back(the horse and cart again - it is an eco village!) we tucked into a monster breakfast.

After a couple of hours lounging we had a guided walk of the jungle. I wasn't looking forward to getting mauled or munched (there are Bengal Tigers in those woods!) and didnt feel more confident when the guides only had bamboo sticks and their senses for protection. I would've felt much better had they been carrying submachine guns or poisoned darts. They didnt.

We walked into the jungle and looked. Looked a bit. Then walked a bit more. I was beginning to think even the sticks were for dramatic effect. We saw very little, were were tired of walking (we'de done that in the mountains!) and were hungry. I didnt think Id be capable of quick movements if something did attack! Then, all of a sudden a huge busrt of fur screamed across the corner of my eye. I jumped, shouted and my heart beat out of my chest. I felt slightly foolish when it was only a mongoose. (Like a large grey draught excluder). After that initial blast of adrenaline we went back to our zombified states until the walk was over.

The following day, we did nothing. Just nothing. All day. Except drink imported San Miguel.

The following day we got back on the bus heading for Kathmandu and our final stop in this wonderful country.