Khao Sok Park
From The Big One in Khao Sok National Park, Thailand on Mar 04 '07
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I read in the guide book that this park was worth a detour , so thats what i've done. Well , they're not wrong. Stunning views of jagged limestone hills clothed in trees greet you as you approach Khao Sok.
The bus disgorges you on the approach road to the Park , where the touts are in wait. As its a long walk the easiest option is to go with one of them. If you don't like the digs you've at least had a free ride. This one looks fine tho' and thankfully prices are more sensible. My bamboo hut is costing 150 baht a night . Thats ,ooh , about 2 quid. Mind you , I do have to share it with a few geckos.
The morning alarm call is the sounds of the jungle. Can't identify what most of them are - even between bird and mammal. Definetly a few gibbons in the mix though.
Khao sok is an ancient piece of rainforest covering 738 sq km with adjacent wildlife parks is a invaluable wildlife habitat. It's home to many beasties like elephant and that elusive tiger amongst others. I think the chances of seeing one are less than winning the lottery. If I were a tiger , thats just how I'd like it.
There are many waterfalls in the Park. I took a hike to the nearest that was little more than a trickle really. it was a lesson in being prepared . It's very humid here and iI didn't take nearly enough water. You also need trainers, not the flip-flops I was wearing! Undaunted I went for another hike the next day; this time I was fully prepared.
It was a little dissapointing as the ' lookout point ' lets you see about 5 foot as the giant bamboo surrounds the platform. I don't know if it's particuarly fast growing or they've a different idea of a view than I have. Anyway , you do feel like your having a real jungle experience as you get drenched in sweat it's so humid.
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The Elephant Jungle Safari sounds like it is. An enjoyable tourist event. Perched atop jumbo we were taken up a shallow river bed before completing the rest on foot to view the waterfall. After coffee , served in bamboo section , its back on nelly for the ride back. Once there you can feed your new friend with bananas for afew pence.
I saw from my new viewpoint a couple of 'flying ' lizards. They glided from one tree trunk to another . I'm hoping I can find out what they're called.( would you believe they're called Flying Lizards.)
In the parks visitor centre I found the Raffelsia flower was in bloom in nearby jungle. This species is the worlds second largest flower and lasts for 3 or 4 days a year. A guide took me through a hard upward slog through dense jungle. On the way saw tracks by wild boar in the mud by a stream ; lizards , monkeys. Fantastic.
The flowers themselves are well marked with a little viewing platform to protect them . One was just about dead but luckily another was in full bloom. I'd read they're meant to smell really bad , but to be honest , I couldn't smell anything.I remember seeing David Attenborough with a Raffelsia on telly . I'm sure that was much bigger; maybe a differant variety? These were maybe 2' across - still pretty big and worth the hike.
Last day I went for another hike , this time setting off very early . What a difference that makes. Not only is the going a lot easier , but theres also more wildlife to be seen. Monkeys , many birds , 4 species of lizard. i actually heard a lot more animals than I saw and am sure an experienced tracker would have seen lots I didn't.
I don't think I've mentioned the mopeds. Here , like everywhere I've seen they're a very popular form of transport. Can't quite get used to some of the sights tho'; like small children perched on front or people riding with one hand because they're carrying shopping or boxes.I keep expecting a screech of brakes and bloodshed but amazingly I've seen no crashes.
You know , this is a way of life that i'm getting used to. If anyone from Lonely Planet / Rough Guide want a new journalist who can type 5 words a minute ( not necessarily in the right order), I'm your man!
Off to Surin islands next for a little more snorkelling.
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