History on the Peloponnese Part II

Ancient Olympia
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From the palace we ventured on to Olympia, one of the places I was most looking forward to. Our bus took us through the main street and it quickly became apparent that Olympia is a tourist town, and nothing else. The main archaeological site is massive and the adjacent modern town of Olympia exists to cater to the tourists who come to see it. The main street is littered with tourist shops, restaurants and a few hotels. We did not stop at any of these. Our driver took us up a hill to what appeared to be a brand new, gorgeous hotel. When Sara and I entered our room we ran in with delight. With a sunken living area extending the size of a room, it continued out to a large balcony over looking the plains of Greece. Although the view lacked the blue water of Pylos, it was equally as stunning. We were also pleased to learn that the hotel boasted a large outdoor pool just waiting for us. I must admit that I love to swim and spent the next two-hours in the water without leaving once. One of the younger members of our tour, probably around 13 years old, was trying in vain to have her father play some games in the pool with her. I suggested we have a go and we had a blast together, holding our breath under water, seeing who could do the greatest number of somersaults, and having handstand contests under water. It was like being a kid again!

Stadium at Olympia
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We spent that evening in town exploring the shops. Outside one jewelry store a shopkeeper asked me where I was from. I answered ‘Canada’ in response at which point he grew excited. He told me that his cousin had run with the Olympic torch in Canada and that he had a picture of this event just inside. Sara and I went in to the store to accommodate the man. He threw an odd picture in front of me and removed it so quickly that I did not really have a chance to make anything out. He then proceeded to show me some jewelry that he thought would look fabulous on me. It then hit me that I fell for it. This was a common ploy of the Greek shopkeeper to get customers. I vowed I would not be so gullible again in the future.

one of the greatest scams in history

Me and an Olive Branch wreath!
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We toured Ancient Olympia the next morning. It is a much larger and better preserved site than I had originally thought it was going to be. Given that we were in Greece just a month before the 2004 Olympic Summer Games were to occur, Olympia was a popular site. We were at the gates first thing in the morning and yet there were still busloads of tourists joining us. Despite the crowds, it was still a thrilling experience to stand on the ground where the first games took place. The stadium is exactly as it was when it was first used in 776 BC. I was shocked at how similar ancient Olympia was to modern tourists areas. Remains of a large, two-story hotel can be explored complete with a courtyard swimming pool. Statues of Olympic heroes once adorned the pathways leading to the famous stadium. Several gymnasiums were available for athletes to train all situated near several massive temples for Zeus and Hera. The museum on site housed stunning statues of Nike and Hermes and the sculptures that once adorned the front and back sides of the Temple of Zeus.

Walking along the Sacred Way, Delphi
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History oozes from the site as you walk through it. Our tour guide brought us to an old olive tree that was said to have played an important role in the site’s history. It is believed to be an ancient tree dating to around the time ancient Olympia was first settled. The myth is that Zeus planted the tree himself and it was from this tree that the olive branches were taken to be formed into crowns for the Olympic victors.  I was pleased to learn that that tradition would continue in the 2004 games. We all took turns having our pictures taken with a wreath from the famous tree upon our heads.

The Temple of Apollo, Delphi
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From Olympia we hit the road for our longest day of travel yet. We boarded a ferry at Patra to cross the Gulf of Corinth. Such ferry crossings are likely not occurring as I write this. A large bridge was constructed over the Gulf connecting the Peloponnese to the mainland but the government would not open it until the Olympic torch was run across the expanse. Several hours later our large bus somehow made its way along the narrow main road through modern Delphi. As with modern Olympia, Delphi exists to cater to tourists coming to visit its ancient site. The town is small and situated precariously at the side of the mountain Parnassus. I have to admit, I was excited to have the chance to visit ancient Delphi the next morning. It is without a doubt my favourite historical site on earth and probably the biggest factor in my decision to visit Greece during this trip.

The Sanctuary of Athena
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I was not to be disappointed the next morning. Delphi was once considered the centre of the earth and visitors all over the ancient world came to consult the god Apollo on both political and private matters. Such interactions occurred at the Oracle at Delphi. Visitors would follow the Sacred Way, a long path leading up to the Temple of Apollo, surrounded by the riches of the famous Greek cities showing off their wealth. Once at the Temple, the visitor was required to pay a fee to the priests and sacrifice an animal on the alter. They were then permitted to ask their question. A priestess, or Pythia, would respond in a trance, believed by the visitor to be the work of Apollo himself. Her response was often mere gibberish but the priests “expertly” interpreted her words and provided an often ambiguous response. The most famous example of the Oracle in action occurred in the 6^th century in BC when the King of Lydia came to ask if he should wage war against Persia. The response was that if he crossed a river a great empire would be destroyed. Taking this to be good tidings, the King crossed the river Halys on is way to Persia. It turns out that the Oracle was correct; a great empire was destroyed. Unfortunately, it was his own.

Meteora
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The site is intriguing not just because of this sacred history, but also because of recent findings that explain the sites powers. Geologists have since found to large fault lines in the earth that converge directly under the Temple of Apollo, exactly where the Pythia provided her response. Ethylene vapours emanated from the fissures and are now believed to have placed the priestess in a narcotic trance allowing her to produce her response. I couldn’t help but smirk at the finding. The oracle at Delphi should be considered one of the greatest scams in history. It is said that the priests who “interpreted” her responses did so in very deliberate ways. Looking back one must wonder that impact they had on shaping the history of the ancient world – and they we paid handsomely for their efforts!

Monastery at Meteora
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Despite the scam that was the oracle, the site was the spiritual heart of ancient Greece. Apollo was the son of Zeus and the god of logic. He was also known for moral discipline. Written in the Temple were the words “know thyself” and “nothing in excess”. Our tour guide spent some time explaining the significance of these words in history and in today’s complex society. I pondered these words has I headed down the mountain to the lower site where the sanctuary of Athena is located. Few ventured down to this site but I was glad I did. When I reached the sanctuary I realized I was alone. I stopped to enjoy the peace amongst the ruins and marveled at the view over the fields of olive and cypress trees stretching out to the Gulf of Corinth. When I think back to my time in Greece, it is this moment that I remember the most.

Our tour group
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That afternoon we traveled to Meteora, a remarkable collection of monasteries perched on natural sandstone towers. It is difficult to describe the awe one feels when you drive up to the site. It strikes me as one of those places you just have to see for yourself (or see in the James Bond flick “For Your Eyes Only”!). Construction of the monasteries began in 1382. For centuries the only way to access the buildings was to hop in a large basket and be pulled into the structure. Thankfully for tourists, modern paths have been constructed to a few of the monasteries allowing one to explore without the vertigo. Monks and nuns continue to occupy the monasteries today and visitors are required to dress appropriately (only long skirts for women and all shoulders must be covered).

Meteora was our last stop in Greece before returning to Athens for our departure. I had not expected to enjoy Greece as much as I had. The historical sites exceeded my expectations and I found myself looking forward to every Greek meal that was set before me. Although I missed the freedom I had in London, the tour was a stress free way to pack in so many sites in a short period of time. I also came to love the laid back atmosphere of Greece and even the pushy shopkeepers who waited outside their stores until an unsuspecting tourist came by. I was also surprised at the differences between life in Greece and life in North America. I was pleased to see that very few chain stores have taken root in the country. The vast majority of shops and markets are independently owned and have their own unique character. With the exception of an Ikea right outside the airport, I saw no names or logos that I recognized despite spending over a week traveling across the country. However, life in Greece, although rich by some standards, is not at the same economic level as other western European nations. Many foundations of homes litter the country side and are being built up slowly by families as they can afford construction. Dogs and cats are found wandering almost every street as such pets are rare in the country – families simply cannot afford to care for them and they are not viewed in the same way as they are in North America. I was also shocked to learn that Greece has a relatively strong communist party who leave their red graffiti all over the country side.

My time in Greece allowed me to appreciate more to the country than just the ancient history I studied at school. I look forward to returning one day to its incredible geography, colourful people and rich culture shaped by thousands of years of history.