The city of artisans

The market
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23 December 2006. Departure from Durham, UK around 00:20. After about two hours of difficult (fog+rain) driving we stopped for coffee. Barbara drove for the next two hours. Arrived at Airparks at 04:10, Luton airport at 04:35, flight took off at 07:10. Most of the flight we were sleeping. Morocco landscape looked very beautiful and diverse from the air. At around 11:00 we met our rent-a-car person and after some money exchange at the band, we embarked towards ville nouvelle of Fez to sign the car rental agreement (+360 MAD for extra driver). On the way, we took a first glimpse of the driving culture in Morocco. Keep the speed limits and respect the others but simultaneously get your space in the crowd. With few exceptions, your space will be respected. We entered Medina from Bab El-Jbib and parked to the first available parking with attendants (almost all parkings have attendants). The hotel sent personnel to pick up our luggage and we paid 60 MAD for 3 nights of safe and sure parking (after some bargaining). We arrived at the hotel after a route that initially seemed like labyrinth but later it made more sense. We entered the riad, which was a different world than outside. Spacious, quite colourful! The room had the same characteristics. It was a suite where if you don't pay attention to details (bad electric, difficult to warm it up) it can be the perfect room for honeymoon. After some rest and a mint tea, we set off for our first exploration. Forget about using GPS. The walls of the narrow streets are too high and sometimes the streets are covered. Instead, we used landmarks in every turn (a fountain, a shop, etc). This way we could go back to our hotel without problems. We ended up in a market (fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, etc).

The palace
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We were looking for a food shop where locals go so as to have lunch. We discovered small shops with a communal table and some stools. They were serving fried fresh fish with communal sauce, bread, fried chilli peppers and bean soup. It was very nice (eat by right hand), plus two coke, total 60 MAD. The hassle from faux guides or potential sellers was generally minimal. During the afternoon we slept. At about 20:00, we set off for dinner. During the evening there were no fish frying shops, but the meat shops are transformed into cooking meat shops. We had a mix of meats (sausages, minced meat with spices, a haggis-like thing, onion and fat) in bread (total 24 MAD). We also bought half a kilo of sweets (25 MAD) and a bottle of water (5.5 MAD). Then, mint tea at the hotel. End of day.

Our two days in Fez (one with guide) and one day travel to Volubilis, Moulay Idriss and Meknes

South view of Fez
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24 December 2006. Wakey-wakey at 7:30. Needless to say we didn't get up before 8:00. The breakfast was coffee/tea, orange juice, two jams, honey, butter, bread, olives, cheese, half-boiled eggs, crepe-like meat cake, dry semolina pastry and dry bread with raisins. Initially they brought meat soup with dates. At 9:00 our guide arrived. We took the car to go to the potteries, where we were shown the process and we bought a small tagine for olives (170 MAD). Then we saw a south panoramic of the city and enjoyed the view. Then back to the Medina, where we visited a madrasa, were introduced to Arabic and Islamic world, saw the tanneries and bought a pair of slippers and a belt, plus a wallet (280 MAD). Then he told us a few things about the formation of the city (cut in half by a river, water-based handicrafts are next to the river, etc). The doors (Baabs) lead to different handicrafts and each craft-area has one hammam, one fountain, one mosque and one bakery. Then we saw the carpets but we were not interested to buy. Then we had kebab, tea and sweets (115 MAD) and we paid him 300 MAD. Then we went to Mellah (the Jewish quarter) and walked around. The palace looks fantastic from outside. Panoramic view again (we also witnessed an arrest by the secret police). Then back to the hotel where we had a nice jacuzzi. Then Christmas dinner. We sat with four English and two Australians. There was some Moroccan dance and a guitarist. The food was so-so. Menu: Amuse-bouches // Feveroles - Tomate a l'Ail - Courgettes au vinaigre - Caviar d'Aubergine - Zaalouk de chou fleur - Salades aux coeurs d'artichauts // Rouget sauce Andalouse // Prefere du prophete (Trid de Dinde) // Buche de Noel // Plateau de fruits // The et Patisseries.

Route to Volubilis
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Potteries: First they extract the clay from the mountain. The Fez clay is grey and very hard. The Marrakech clay is red and fragile. Then, they put the boulders of clay in water for a few days. It makes a muddy mix, which they spread and after cutting it in tiles they let it dry. Then, they take it to the ovens. These are brick round houses where the clay tiles are placed in stacks. The floor of the houses has holes that lead to a very large basement where fire burns. Later, they take the tiles and dip one side in colourful glaze. These are then cut in shape to make the mosaic pieces that we meet all over Fez (especially fountains). These pieces are put upside-down and then joined with cement. Back to the muddy substance. they work with it to make tagines, candlesticks, etc. Afterwards, they will be elaborately painted by hand with mineral colours (e.g. the blue is kobalt which initially is purple and becomes blue when it dries).

Volubilis
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Tanneries: 220 people work in these medieval tanneries. The colours are all from natural material (a bit sceptical about this). The leathers are first washed (days) in water with birds' excrement. This softens the skin, opens the pores and makes it easy to remove the hair. Then the leather is dipped in the dye where it stays for days. They keep on taking the leathers out and change their order in the dye so as to dye them well. Small parts and fat are removed by knife. After the leather is dyed they dry it and then scrape it to soften.

Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss and catholic church
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25 December 2006. We left at about 9:30 after more or less the same breakfast. First stop bank, where we exchanged 100 GBP to MAD. Then we departed with the two Australians to visit Volubilis, Moulay Idriss and Meknes. After a long drive through a very nice landscape we parked the car at the side of the main road (no parking attendants) and entered Volubilis from the edge of Decamenus Maximus. The city is very similar to Selinunte in Sicilly. Very nice mosaics everywhere, nothing stopping you from walling on them. There was a restored olive press and the base of the walls of the houses. Basilica and Capitol were the best buildings. We walked along Decamenus Maximus and towards the main entrance. Then back to the car. In Moulay Idriss we parked the car and guy asked us to accept him as a guide. He was a faux guide. We agreed on 10 MAD for one hour. He was ok, but he could speak only French. We saw the only cylindric minaret existing in the world. We saw the mausoleum from above. We also saw the catholic church next to the mausoleum. He explained to us the meaning of the place for the Mushlims and the meaning of the decorative balls above the dome and the minaret (where we have a cross in Christian churches).

Potteries - the ovens
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Three balls on minaret mean temporal, spiritual and universal power. Four balls on mosque mean Byble, Koran, Torat and Evangelion. We were also told that the Romans had a fort where Moulay Idriss is now from where they could protect the city of Volubilis. In Meknes we arrived around 16:00. We walked in the streets with a bit of hassle. We saw the Grande Mosque and then walked through very crowded streets to Place El-Hedim where people were gathered around story tellers or actors to get entertained. Then we went back to Fez. I asked for Arabic coffee before dinner, but it seems that here the coffee is nothing like the middle east one. They use the Italian mocha machine and add spice (cinnamon?) and sugar.