Bali Ho

Have you ever had flowers painted on your fingernails with a toothpick? Well you can for just $3 in Ubud, Bali! Daniel had a 30 minute neck and shoulder massage with coconut oil for $3 while I was getting my manicure.... the woman worked so hard at this manicure that i gave her a $2 tip and made her week i think!

We've been in Ubud, the arts center of Bali for about 4 days. It's pretty touristy but it's the low season here (oh, and the rainy season, I might add) so there are few tourists and many hotels and bungalows are only 20-50% full. We moved out of the first bungalow first thing the next morning because that urine smell just wouldn't go away! The next place we stayed in had an air-con, spacious room smelled good (!) and overlooked a rice paddy. What they failed to mention was the flocks of geese that parade around in the overflowing rice paddies looking for worms. And the roosters that cock their doodle-doo bright and early every 4am. Sigh. We moved today to a homestay.

We happened upon the Ubud Sari Health Resort a couple of days ago and wandered thru their jungle gardens and stone paths lined with information stakes of all the healing herbs and plants. The attention to detail was unique... freshly fallen frangipani flowers lined every stone ledge, were delicately tucked behind the stone ears and into the hands of the hindu statues... we were greeted with a flower placed behind our own ears... vegetarian restaurant - wonderful! But it was not the 'resort' that you and I usually associate with that word. It was rustic; truly fostering a sublime sense of place and peace. But I distracted myself....

Their naturopath was out of the country so they recommended a ex-pat Aussie chinese medicine doctor down the road. What a character! We spent the better part of the last 2 days with her, hysterically laughing, learning how to do moxa on each other (the burning of mugwort near the skin to affect change), getting acupuncture and cupping treatments and having her make herbal tonics for each of us. Cupping, by the way, is this: light a match or lighter or, as in this case, a long stick of cinnamon wrapped with cotton to form a mini torch, and rapidly poke the flame into different sized glass 'bells.' The bells or cups are then quickly placed on a pre-oiled back to enhance suction. The vacuum that is created by leaving the cups in place pulls the toxins and stagnated blood right to the surface. We have what we've dubbed 'island tattoos' now, circular bruise-colored spots all over our backs. But boy do we feel good! It didn't and doesn't hurt a bit!

Linda suggested that we try the vegetarian restaurant right on Gootama street, down from her shop and that's where we met the Lion King. Well, he won't tell us his real name and that's what he calls himself... who knows. He's a young character with a big ego but very funny and always trying to practice his english with us. When we tld him we left our hotel due to geese and roosters, he roared with laughter and then said to go see his homestay. We followed him to this family's home where they built about 5 rooms into their little village. For $7 we have an enormous room, big bathroom that's clean!, and a view of the lush green jungle from our ground-floor balcony. Ceiling fan, no air-con, but it's neat because it's in the midst of this family's home.

They use 'village' to mean a residence... here's a snapshot: stone gateway entrance, no door or gate or lock or even walls higher than 5 feet; moss-infused, stone tiled paths that lead to each little hut. Each bamboo/stone/cement hut has a different purpose - bedrooms, kitchen, living area, and there are balibanong, raised platforms (a la tree house style but low)that have simply bamboo mats (tatami-ish)just used for relaxing, playing cards, etc. We are really seeing how people live by staying there. Tomorrow we will watch the mother and one daughter prepare a traditional Balinese breakfast - rice noodles stir-fried in coconut oil with vegetables and carefully carved fresh pineapple, papaya, and freshly plucked bananas, all served on a banana leaf. Tea and Balinese coffee, and perhaps a jaffle. It's a grilled sandwich basically with any variety of fruit inside. For lunch they're made with vegetables inside.

We've been caught in 2 rainstorms, one of which knocked out the power for a few blocks but that was in Sanur. We didn't bring our rain gear, it'd be soaked thru anyway with the way these storms sneak over the mountains and suddenly appear. I'm turning this over to

Daniel who is going to write his first entry! Take it away - - - -- -!My first entry. I am finally cool enough to write sensibly. the herb doc lady drew the heat out of my body yesterday and I am a new person today. Bali seems to be a rather magical place. It has been self-supporting as could easily farm rice and fruit was plentiful. the climate has been ideal for them.

the locals smile all the time, much different than the West. I love to see their white teeth which are incredibly straight. the pace of life is slow and follows the climate. when it is too hot, they rest. The island has an incredible amount of art as the people have made the time to incorporate this into their lives and culture.

The food is simple and the choices limited which is a good thing. they cook with ingredients that are fresh. the only thing canned or bottled that i have seen is the coca cola.

we will continue to relax and explore and likely have frequent massages for 2-3 bucks. I really am enjoying the pace of life as much different than doctoring.

Bali Hai to all. D and L