Fountains Abbey, Yorkshire

Fountains Abbey, Yorkshire
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Today the whole family is going off for the day together, provided we can fit everything in the car. Our plan is to visit Fountains Abbey first and then move onto a load of old rocks – don’t worry the latter is more interesting that initially meets the eye!

I suspect that behind today’s visit is a secret agenda and there is, both Dad and my brother have joined the National Trust who happen to own both sites. Still my brother’s membership is his early birthday present, so I can’t really grumble, especially as I’m a member too.

The stone itself is slowly wearing away, leaving strange organic shapes.

Fountains Abbey, Yorkshire
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Fountains Abbey is a really remarkable World Heritage Site. Last week I visited Bolton Abbey and had been quite impressed by these remains. However Fountains seems to be four times the size. It nestles in a deep river valley and as a result has clearly suffered from the recent flooding. Parts have been cordoned off whilst the clean up operation takes place. They seem to have quite a few lumps of tree to take care of. However it doesn’t affect the look of the place and I really enjoy looking at the ruins. Somehow the scale of the building is enhanced because of its condition, I’m sure York Minster is a similar size, but somehow this just feels vast.

Inside the ruins, Fountains Abbey, Yorkshire
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Everywhere you look nature is trying its best to claim back the building. Birds are nesting everywhere, including large numbers of swifts that seem to squeeze into the tiniest cracks and crevices. Grass and weeds grow thirty foot off the ground when the roof should be. The stone itself is slowly wearing away, leaving strange organic shapes.

Sadly the floods have blocked one of the main walks in the Abbey grounds, but there is another route following the valley floor. Eventually as I round the bend the river opens out into a small lake and the landscape suddenly changes from wild pasture to a garden, as the water from the lake tumbles over a manmade waterfall under a rustic stone bridge. From here it enters a very formal canal that frankly looks a little out of sorts at the moment. It’s currently half empty with piles of rocks in the centre. I’m not sure whether they are simply doing some restoration or whether they have been draining away the flood water.

Fountains Abbey, Yorkshire
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As I walk along the path the water garden is generally hidden by a high beach hedge, but every so often you get a sudden view. Eventually at the furthest end of the canal there is a balustrade and a vast lake. Now it’s evident that they have been hit by flood water. A tide line of debris has collected this side of the balustrade and in an effort to relieve the pressure; the nearby sluices have been opened. Not only has the canal been half drained, the formal pools on the other bank are looking rather forlorn.

View of Fountains Abbey from down the valley, Yorkshire
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There are now two routes to take, the lower one along the pools, or a higher one taking in a number of follies on the top edge of the valley. Torn between two options, I head first for a grand folly on the lower level. From here I spot a heron standing in the central pool, helping himself to the unfortunate fish that have now been crammed into a much smaller space. Then on the other side I see a brief flash of electric blue. Turning quickly I find a kingfisher unusually landing on the mud and presumably also picking off casualties. Unfortunately the heron soon turns his attention to a family of coots nearby, but before he can make off with any of the chicks, a little boy runs towards it waving his arms and telling the naughty bird exactly what he thinks of him!

Debris left by flooding, Fountains Abbey, Yorkshire
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By now I’ve given up on the high route and instead take the easy way back round the corner and on towards the Abbey again. Eventually I meet up with my parents and join them whilst we waited for my brother to arrive. Once we are all reunited we head back to the car and then onto our next destination, which my parents promise will be really impressive.