Aya, Takoyaki and Geisha

I hopped on the train from Higashi Fussa one of the stations by the base and rode it to Hachioji then changed trains and got on the Yokohama line to Shin Yokohama station.  That train was almost an hour long.  When I got to Shin Yokohama I bought my first Shinkansen (bullet train) ticket and tracked down a pay phone.  I'm actually kind of amazed they still have payphones since everyone has cells now.  But I found one and called my friend Aya and let her know which train I got on and when I would be in Kyoto so she could pick me up at the station.

Now time for a little background.  Aya and I met as kids in Santa Barbara and haven't seen each other now for 17 years give or take.  My Grandmother met Aya's mom Minami in a Japanese cooking class in Santa Barbara and they became friends.  Aya's family was living in Santa Barbara for a year while her dad, Ken, perfected his English at UCSB.  My Grandma kind of adopted them and they became friends with the entire family.  I remember eating Minami's rice balls at Aya-chan's 6th birthday ages ago.  In any case after the year was over they moved back to Japan and my Grandma has kept in contact with them over the years.  So when she found out I was going to Japan she emailed my Aya's email address and phone number and told me I had to contact her when I went to Kyoto.  I emailed her when I was in Tachikawa and starting to plan my little excursion.  She invited me to stay with her in her apartment in Kyoto for as long as I was there.  So after much back and forth and discussion of schedules we set dates and she agreed to pick me up at the train station.

Ok, now that all that background is said after I called and talked to Aya I headed up to the platform to wait for my train.  I wasn't there very long when my train arrived and I hopped on fast as they only stop for a couple of minutes.  I found my seat, put my bag up and settled in.  The train is crazy fast and super smooth.  I didn't bother trying to look out the window because it was moving so fast I could barely catch of glimpse of anything.  So I ended up reading on the train.  Before I knew it the 2 hour ride was over and I grabbed my stuff and got off at Kyoto Station.  I followed Aya's instructions and met her just beyond the ticket gate.  It's amazing we even recognized each other after so long.

I gave her a huge hug and thanked her for picking me up and letting me stay with her.  We headed out and walked around the station then into the department store connected to the station and hit the food court.  I opted to try Aya's favorite Takoyaki which is kind of hard to describe.  It's a doughy ball with octopus bits in it which is covered with a sauce.  It's not bad by any means just different.  Unfortunately I didn't the instructions on who to eat it and popped the hole thing in my mouth which was scalding hot and burned the entire inside of the mouth and throat.  With watering eyes I ended up spitting the thing out to save what was left of my taste buds.  I waited and let the rest cool down a little and caught up on life in general with Aya.  The basics - school, boyfriends, hobbies, plans for after college, etc.

After lunch we cruised through a couple of stores so that she could run a few errands and then we went up in the Kyoto Tower where I was able to see all around Kyoto.  After we went down we walked back to the station and caught the bus uptown to her apartment.  On the way she filled me in on some schedule changes.  She had her last college final tomorrow so she had to study tonight and then she had a big interview for a TV station in Tokyo on Thursday and would be gone until at least Saturday.  She told me not to worry and I could still stay in her place until I left on Saturday and asked me to feed her hamster while she was gone.  Feeding a hamster is the least I could do for a free room!!!

We got off the bus and walked around the corner to her building and up to the 4th floor.  Thank goodness there is an elevator.  She gave me the grand tour of her little flat and I dropped my stuff and then met Nezu-Nezu to the hamster.  She spent the next couple of hours studying while I quietly read so as not to bother her.  Eventually she broke and we ordered crazy Japanese style Domino's pizza for dinner and ate while watching some equally crazy Japanese TV show that had mothers in the 40s competing to see you looked the youngest and could still pass for a high school student.  It was odd to say the least.

After dinner I borrowed Aya's laptop and checked my email and then bothered her again to get directions from her flat back down to Kyoto station.  She drew me a map and put bus # to take to different places and Japanese phrase that would help.  She also gave me her spare key and the front door code so I could go in and out.  Around 11pm I jumped in the shower and then got in bed and crashed out.  Aya stayed up and burned the midnight oil studying for her test.  I have no idea what time she went to bed but it was really late.

The next morning I was up at 6:30 to get dressed and ready and to get myself down to a hotel by the station for my tour.  Grandma had encouraged me to do a day tour of Kyoto so I had bought a day package via the internet in Tachikawa.  We had to meet at 8:30 at the New Miyako Hotel which was down by the station.  So I was up early and got dressed while trying to let Aya sleep.  I peaked out the window only to find that it was snowing.  Great!!!

I headed out to the bus station at 7:15 and caught the first bus with the right number I saw which was packed full of people going to work.  It took a good 45 minutes to get down to the station.  At some point during the bus ride the snow stopped which was a good sign.  Once there I followed the map I had through the station where I stopped to get some coffee briefly.  I went out the other side and walked down a ways until I saw the hotel across the street.  I went in and checked in for the tour then bumbled around and struck up a conversation with a nice couple from San Francsico.  At 10 to 9 we walked out and back into the snow and boarded onto the tour buses and headed for our first stop Nijo Castle.

We hopped off the bus and into the snow at Nijo Castle. Luckily I had my umbrella so was able to open it up and keep the wet snow off most of me. Nijo Castle was built by the Tokugawa Shoguns as there residence when they came to Kyoto from their capital in Edo which is modern day Tokyo. We walked through the giant gates and into the outer courtyard that was covered in snow. We followed the guides pink umbrella to the side of one building there we discarded our shoes for plastic slippers and walked into the buildings. We were able to walk through the public buildings and a few of the private buildings. It was interesting because in the public buildings the floor in the hallway was called the Nightingale floor. It was designed and built with pieces of metal that would slide in and out of metal slots type thing so that anywhere you stepped the floor squeaked. It was built this way on purpose as a defensive mechanism. It’s hard for anyone, even a ninja to sneak up on the Shogun in an assassination attempt if the floor squeaked with every step to give him away; pretty smart if you ask me.

The walls were either beautifully painted screens with pine tree branches or cherry blossoms while other walls were carved wood screens. It was all really beautiful. The private rooms were similar to the public although back in the old days only women were allowed in the Shogun’s private quarters. Not even his most trusted generals or advisors were allowed in this part of the castle. Again the Tokugawa’s weren’t stupid rulers. Once back outside we walked around and took pictures as it was “free time”. I must say I really love Japanese and Chinese architecture. The buildings seem so much more fluid and simple compared to the kinds of castles and palaces you see in Europe. No don’t get me wrong I love those too. I mean who wouldn’t want to grow up in the fairytale castle of Neuaschwanstine in Bavaria. But there is something very aesthetically pleasing to me about the simplicity and lightness of the Asian styled palaces.

Once our pictures of some of the buildings were done we pseudo followed the guide into the garden. We just walked around the outer part as apparently it’s a big garden and we didn’t want to get lost. But it was so beautiful in the snow. A big pond surrounded by rocks covered in snow with small pine trees growing out of the cracks in the rocks. It was all trees and shrubbery with the rocks and water. No flowers which is not surprising considering it was the middle of winter and we were standing there in the snow but even in the summer pictures of the garden colorful flowers were not really featured. I walked around and took more pictures and talked to a few people on my tour. I took pictures of a group of high school girls in their short plaid school uniform skirts with bare legs in the snow. I don’t know how they do it. When I was in high school in Santa Barbara in the middle of winter when it was 60 degrees outside I would not be caught dead out of my jeans and a hoodie because I would freeze.

Well we eventually returned to the bus drove on to the Golden Pavilion or Rokuon-ji Temple. The Golden Pavilion was built by Yoshimitsu one of the Shoguns after his retirement from court life. It is built away from the city on a small lake and was used as his home and sanctuary until his death when it was turned into a Zen Temple as per his will. I had never heard of the Golden Pavilion but I will never forget it. We walked from the parking area along a path crowded by other tourists through the trees and when I got to the edge of the lake my breadth caught for a second. It was one of the most beautiful sights I have seen on this trip. Across the lake was a building in traditional Japanese style, similar to a pagoda that was covered in gold. The gold building stood out against the white surroundings and the glassy lake. There was a perfect reflection in the water of the building and the snow covered trees and rocks around the building all covered by the grey sky above. It was snowing when were arrived here too. But the snow made it that much more perfect. Even our guide said this is the best view of the Pavilion but it only happens a couple times a year so I feel lucky that it was snowing. We walked around the lake past the Golden Pavilion and along the path through the garden which lead back to the parking area. I was snapping pictures along the way as the garden covered in snow was like a winter wonderland and too beautiful to pass up. By the time we made it around the garden the snow had stopped again and I picked up a milk tea for the road and climbed in the van.

From the Golden Pavilion we drove to the Kyoto Imperial Palace. When we got off we had to line up and be counted before we were able to enter the building. Once in we were only able to walk around the outer part of the palace and could only see the outside of the buildings. I hate to say it, but it was a let down after the amazing views at the Golden Pavilion. The redeeming factor of the palace was the large and beautiful Japanese garden towards the back of the palace complex which I took several pictures of. I found in Kyoto that one of my favorite things in Japan is the gardens and specifically the traditional Japanese gardens. They are just so much more soothing and beautiful to me. Maybe it’s the balance of the elements with the water, stone, and trees. But I think that someday I would like to have one of my own.

After finishing at the palace and being counted when we left we all climbed back onto the bus and were driven to the Kyoto Handicraft Center. There we were left for our lunch break. Or at least the lunch break for those that were continuing or the afternoon portion of the tour. On the 2^nd floor we found a buffet already set up and I got my food and joined an American couple and we ate and talked. They gave me some advice on places to see in New Zealand. After lunch I wandered around the center and bought some postcards to send out, a pair of sandal socks with purple dragons on them. I admired the silk kimonos and robes, the pottery, jewelry, and knickknacks. I was tempted to do some shopping but things were pretty expensive so I restrained. I walked downstairs to the lobby ahead of schedule and hit up the rack of brochures and got a map of Kyoto along with some other information on things to see or do over the next couple of days. At 2:00pm the guide came back and collected the afternoon group and we all climbed back onto the bus. On the bus ride one of the couples shared with me that they had done an evening walking tour of Gion, which is the old traditional district, the night before gave me some information on it. I was really interested and had looked into a similar type of walking tour.

Before I knew it we had arrived at our next stop the famous Heian Shrine. The Heian Shrine is one of the more recently built shrines in Kyoto. I think it was built after the start of the Meiji era in mid 1800s when the Shogunate it was dissolved and the ruling power went back to the imperial family and the parliament that started about that time. Anyways, the Shrine is huge and made up of several buildings. It has the traditional tori gate and entrance gate with guardians to protect it. There was a giant purifying fountain outside the main gate. I’m not sure if I wrote this before but when you enter Shinto Shrines and actually Buddhist Temples too there is a fountain of sorts by the gate where you are supposed to stop and wash your hands and sip the water to purify your body before prayer. We walked across the courtyard to the main shrine where the guide showed us the proper way to pray and gave us time to pray if we wanted. This became my tradition at any temple or shrine I visited to pray for a few minutes. One the way we saw a little girl there with her father; she had received a temple fortune and was tying it to the branches of one of the trees outside the main temple. When you get a temple fortune you tie it either to a tree or a pole so that it will come true. It’s kind of like reading it once and then letting it go so that it can come true instead of holding onto it. Well, I got a picture of this adorable little girl tying her fortune on the tree before we walked off to tour the garden. This one was yet another amazing garden and I wanted to stay and sit there in the middle of the garden and relax. I’m going to start irritating people with how often I say this but I loved that garden it was one of my favorites in all of Japan. It was soothing and peaceful and did wonderful things for my soul. And yes, I took a dozen or so pictures of the temple and gardens.

When we finally left and got back in the bus I was so much calmer and more relaxed. We headed to our next stop which was the Sanjusangen Temple. This is a famous Buddhist temple that is known for its 1,001 golden statues of the Bodhisattva Kanzeon, aka Kannon, aka Kwan Yin. The outside of the temple is really boring looking its just one long wooden hall from outside. We dropped off our shoes and got slippers before going in. The temple is a really long hall and as you walk down the path you can see the rows upon rows of golden statues of Kwan Yin standing at attention. There are in total 1,000 smaller almost life size standing statues and in the middle of the hall there is one really big statue of Kwan Yin sitting on a lotus flower. All 1,001 statues are made of Japanese cypress and covered with gold leaf and date back to the 12^th and 13^th century. It seemed funny to me to have all these beautiful golden statues in this dark and damp temple. The actual temple without the statues would not be at all interesting to see. Needless to say the statues make up for the temple buildings lack and are overwhelming at that.

On the back side of the temple platform there is a long hall which is famous for an old archery tournament. Archers would sit at one end and shoot arrows down the 120 meter hall to a target. And if that weren’t enough, the tournament was to see how many arrows could hit the target during a 24 hour period. I’m talking one archer would sit for 24 hours straight and shoot arrows one after the other at the target 120 meters away. I forget the actual numbers but one of the tournament winners shot like 1200 bull’s eyes and 3,000 arrows of the 24 hour period. Now that takes some discipline and determination!!!

Well after that we walked out of the temple and exchanged our slippers for our shoes we headed back out to the bus and drove to our last stop which was the Kiyumizu Temple.

The parking area for the Kiyumizu Temple was half way up a hill so we followed the guide along a shopping street up the hill towards the temple. The stores that lined the street looked interesting even if they were geared towards the tourists. At the base of the temple entrance we saw a couple of “geisha” they actually weren’t. The guide said that there were several places in Kyoto where you could go and rent a geisha outfit with professionals to put it on you along with the makeup and wigs. She said it was not uncommon for girls from other areas of Japan to come to Kyoto and rent the outfit and walk around for a day. She said she had even done it in her youth.

We continued on and when everyone had caught up we entered the temple grounds and walked up to the actual main temple which was built part on the hill and partially off the side of the hill where it was supported by thick wood pilings. Off to the right side of the main temple alter was a large open area which was used for temple plays and ceremonies. It was not uncommon for plays to be performed in temples specifically for the God and/or Goddess but also with a human audience. Off to the side of the platform was a group of 3 temples with large platforms that were used by the court to watch the temple performances. I wandered around and got some great pictures both of the main Kiyumizu temple but also the side temples used for the audience. Then the guide sent me over to the famous Jishu Shrine which was built on the hill right above the Kiyumizu temple.

The Jishu Shrine is a famous Shrine to Okuninushi no mikoto who is the Goddess of Love and Matchmaking. This temple has been around for 1300 years and for 1300 years young Japanese people would come here to pray for a good match in marriage. I followed the line of young girls up to the temple and followed there lead and made and offering and said a prayer. I figure since I’m still single it can’t hurt any to have the Japanese cupid helping me out, right. I hung around for a little while to watch the other girls come and pray before walking around some of the other smaller Shrines on the hill. I headed down the hill snapping pictures all the way down. I wandered around the shopping street a bit and hit up a store and bought my first of many cell phone charms (I love them, they are so Japanese) of geisha sandals and a frog one for my Grandma. At the appointed time I was back on the bus and was driven back to the New Miyako Hotel where I got off and headed through the station to the bus area and caught my bus back up to Aya’s.

On the bus trip Aya called me to say she would be working late in the Library and would be home around 9pm. I headed back to the flat and spent a couple of hours journaling and when my hand got tired I read my book. When Aya arrived home at 9:00pm I put my shoes on and we headed out to a local Chinese restaurant for dinner. Aya ordered as the menu was in Japanese and I was at a lost. The food was really good as was the company. Aya and I talked about her last final for university and the upcoming interview tomorrow. Once we finished dinner and headed back to the flat I checked my email and the information on the Gion walking tour which would be the next night. I ended up crashing around midnight while Aya worked on stuff for her interview until who knows when before going to sleep.

She woke me up the next morning when she was getting ready and packing for a couple of days in Tokyo. I got up and we talked while she packed and then gave me the instructions for feeding Nezu-Nezu the hamster. Then we sat down and ate left over pizza for breakfast while watching a morning show. She finally left weighed down with bags at 8:30 and I climbed back in bed and fell asleep until about 10:30. I finally rolled out of bed and jumped in the shower and got dressed before looking at my map and deciding what I wanted to do today. I settled for the Gion tour at 4:00pm and some errands. I ate a snack and jumped on the bus to Kyoto Station where I spent an hour trying to track down an ATM that would work so I could get some more yen. Little did I know I had to use a special international ATM, I couldn’t use just any ATM even though I tried several times. I finally broke down and asked someone at the money exchange office and they sent me to the post office which had international ATMs. I got some more yen and since I didn’t have a lot of time I wandered around the mall under the station for a little while before catching the bus to Kiyumizu.

I was early so I hiked up the hill to the shopping street I had seen the day before and wandered through it. I was a little hungry having only snacked during the day. I tried some very weird gelatinous thing with carrots and sweet potatoes in it which looked interesting but tasted odd. I also didn’t like the texture of it so I ate about half before chucking the rest in the bin. I walked around some more and then opted to try soy donuts; I got a small bag full of mini donuts for 200 yen. They were actually really tasty and not too sweet which is what I liked. I snacked and walked down to the tour meeting point and found Dave and Laurie a couple I had met on my tour yesterday. They were waiting and talking with the tour guide a nice Japanese woman named Kiko. We talked and hung around to see if anyone else was going to show up and when no did by 4:15 we headed off.

We walked off down the hill along the side streets where we could see some of the traditional architecture and older buildings. Along the way she talked and explained about what we were looking out. We made a stop at a nearby old tea house which is now just left for show but is surrounded by an old guesthouse. We walked on past a pagoda and residential houses through the neighborhood all in the old traditional style. It looks like Kyoto back a couple hundred years ago minus the power lines and random cars. But it was really fun to walk through and I got bunches of pictures of the streets. We stopped at a small Shrine called the Kukurizaru or Hanging Monkey Shrine in the Yasaka Koshindo Temple. The Hanging Monkey shrine refers to a small alter with string chains of monkeys tied together hanging from the alter or shrine roof. I can’t remember what the purpose is but it was different to see.

From there we walked on to the big Kenninji Temple which unfortunately was closed. But we were able to see the outside of the temple and the gigantic wooden doors leading into the temple. We continued walking through the streets of Gion to the Yasaka Shrine and Maruyama Park. We just walked around the edge of the park entrance and into the Shrine. The Shrine complex was large with one main alter and dozens of smaller ones each to different Gods or Goddesses which would be used to pray for any number of reasons. I got some pictures of the main alter and stopped to make an offering and pray. I got some great shots as we just happened to be there at sunset. I loved that this Shrine was set into the park so there were trees and plants scattered all around the complex. Some of the smaller shrine alters were set back in the trees which was very picturesque. When we finished up in the Shrine we headed out into the main part of Gion which is where the Geisha live and work.

Ok, so in Kyoto they don’t call Geisha “Geisha” they call the full fledged women Geiko and the trainees Miyako. The guide informed us during our walk that Miyako were the ones you would see in the full kimono, make up and hair styles of the traditional geisha. Since they were in training to become geiko they are required to live full time in the Okia (geisha house). She said the Miyako were usually girls from the ages of 16 to 20. And that the Geiko could be seen in the same full kimonos but without the traditional white makeup and hairstyles which looked a little more natural. Geiko are allowed and encouraged to live on in their own apartments and are usually 20-80 years old. Yes, there are some old geiko. I think the guide said the oldest geiko in Gion still working is in her early 80s. The guide said there are about 300 geisha both geiko and miyako in Kyoto and they are all registered. She said most girls who go into training as Miyako will opt not to become geiko due to the expense and life style required.

We walked around the main streets of Gion and saw some of the tea houses and a couple Okias. Eventually we camped out next to a nice taxi and waited until the geiko emerged on their way to a party. My camera is not fast enough and those ladies are on the move I snapped one picture of her before she was in the car. I lucked out as it just so happened to be Valentine’s Day when I did this tour and the Geiko and Miyako were out and about going to parties. We ended up walking down the street and stood in front of a tea house and saw at least 10 or 12 geisha walking along the street and into the tea house. I got a couple picture of them running to or from the tea house. The guide said we were very lucky as you never know if the geisha will be out. She said she’s done there tours and has not seen one geisha the entire time. And we saw a bunch running around.

At 6:15 we gave up as most parties with geisha start at 6:00pm and end at 9:00pm so we wouldn’t see anymore going in. So we headed out of Gion and back to the main shopping street, Shijo. There the tour ended and I said goodbye to Kiko and Laurie and Dave and continued walking down Shijo Street. I stopped off in the Takashimaya Department store to look around. I strolled down the street and window shopped until I was frozen and sore then I hopped the bus to Aya’s flat. I hit up the Family Mart for a cup of noodles and a drink and then headed home. I plopped down with my noodles at 8:30 and watched some crazy Japanese TV show while eating. Eventually I turned that off and read a bit before feeding Nezu-Nezu and going to bed.

My last day in Kyoto was spent literally wandering. I got up at 9am and drank my coffee and ate breakfast then got dressed and headed out. At the bus stop I had seen a map of local shrines and temples so I followed it and did a temple walk. The first Shrine I arrived at I’m sorry to say I don’t know the name of but it was fairly small and I walked in and took some pictures before making my offering and praying. The Shrine felt very comfortable to me and after I prayed I felt lighter like I had let go of a weight I wasn’t aware I was carrying. On my way out an older Japanese man asked me in English where I was from and we ended up talking for a few minutes. He shared with me that the shrine we were at was dedicated to a famous Shinto priest that was an exorcist. He said the priest traveled all over Japan performing exorcisms but returned to Kyoto his hometown. He also said the Shrine is very popular to pray to for safety and safe travel. I thought that was quite appropriate. I’ll take all the prayers I can get and divine help from a priest and exorcist.

After that Shrine I walked up the street and stopped at another even smaller Shrine and said a prayer and took a picture. I did this at every Shrine or Temple I visited; made an offering, said a prayer and took a picture. Because most of them were really small Shrines I didn’t get the names and they aren’t on my map of the city. My next stop was the Nishijin Textile Center where I arrived just in time for the hourly Kimono fashion show. It wasn’t originally in my plan to stop here but when I walked by it looked interesting so I stopped. The fashion show was fun and I got some great pictures of the kimonos featured. The fun part was looking at how all the obi’s were tied, some in bows or intricate folds. They were really cool and most of my pictures are of the girls’ backs with the obi ties. The show was about 20 minutes and after I walked through the crowd and up the stairs to the show room. After wandering around and looking at all the different things they had I bought a really pretty piece of material and a frog pincushion thing for my Grandma. I also bought a type of candy that is traditional in Kyoto to take to Junko’s family as a thank you for hosting me for the weekend.

Eventually I made my way out and continued on my random wandering. I headed out and walked along Imadegawa Street a major street in Kyoto and then branched off on some little side streets and visited these tiny Shrines built right into the middle of the neighborhood. It was random to say the least, so random I completely walked by one and had to backtrack to see it. I spent an hour or so and visited 4 or 5 mini Shrines. I finally made my way back out to a main street, Karasuma Street. Then I walked down the entire length of the Imperial Palace and stopped at the Godu Shrine which was bigger; big enough to warrant a spot on my map. I visited the main Shrine as well as a couple of the smaller Shrines in the complex. I continued on down Karasuma Street to Oike Street then headed towards the river. I stopped off and got a snack of rice balls from a convenience store and kept walking. I stopped off at another temple but it turned out that the temple was closed that it was being used for a flea market that day. It was small and therefore not all that exciting.

I eventually found a cute shopping street and wandered down that where I hit up a local stationary store and bought 2 journals and some stationary for my Grandma. I continued walking and window shopping until I ran into yet another temple, this one the Honnoji Temple so I did my routine and kept going. I finally made it to the Pontocho which is a restaurant and bar area in Kyoto built on the river along a narrow lane. It’s not all the exciting if you’re not hungry but it’s fun to see the narrow lane almost an alley really. I walked it down to Shijo Street and then started walking back away from the river in the direction of Aya’s house. I took my time and walked around more shopping streets and tried some really tasty pastry thing when I saw a crowd of people ordering them. I got one which was small to try. It was kind of like a pancake with a sweet paste filling, sweet but not too sweet. I finally stopped off at a shop and bought some dinner which I got as take out and walked to the bus stop. By this time I had been walking for 6 hours and my feet were killing me.

I hopped the bus home and just as I was walking from the stop to Aya’s apartment building it started to rain a bit. I got in and ate my dinner while watching some singing program on TV that had the Backstreet Boys. Yes, the Backstreet Boys!!! I cleaned up the apartment and fed Nezu-Nezu and repacked the majority of my stuff. I read for a little while then went to bed around midnight.

I got early at 6:30 and dressed and repacked my bag. I had a coffee and bread thing I had bought the night before then gave Nezu-Nezu even more food just in case Aya got delayed in Tokyo. I left a note and a present of some pretty earrings I had bought for Aya as a thank you for letting me stay with her during my visit then I was out the door with my bags. I headed for the bus stop and rode a very crowded bus down to Kyoto Station. I made a stop off at the post office and hit up the ATM for some more yen then returned to the station, bought my Shinkansen ticket to Kokura. I was up on the platform 5 minutes early and when my train came I jumped on.

But to find out where I went you’ll just have to stay tuned…..