The rest of week 1

Some of my mottley crew
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Tuesday 16th (Day 4)

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Today I met Paddy, the headmaster.  He is a strange guy, very loud and excuberant.  He wants to take us to church on Sunday (for 3 hours) and then around Elmina Castle.  None of us are looking forward to church.

Teaching in the morning was a nightmare.  I felt really bad until I found out it was not just my class.  It turns out there fights in all 3 classes that have volunteers, no respect from the kids and the teachers do nothing to help.  At one point Mathew had to physicaly carry someone out of class to stop a fight.  The school days are weird - they start at 8:30 (ish), have a break at 11-11:30 and then work to 1:30pm so that they can go home for lunch and chores.  Given that in the UK school kids get a break of some sort every 40 minutes this suggests the kids are tired, bored, can't concentrate and that is why they are getting fractious.  Towards the end of the day they were getting up to walk out of the room and go to toilet in the playground, with no admonishment from the teacher - this is quite shocking and one of a number of things we need to try and work on.

I love my washing machine
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We are going to try and introduce at least one extra break to make the teaching sessions shorter.

We decided that we needed to relax as we were all comletely drained by the mornings teaching.  We went to the beach and swam - there are some lovely big waves so we need to get a boogy board.  We all managed to get stung by a jelly fish (the first time that has happened apparently) - fortunately it was no worse than a stinging nettle.  Whilst on the beach we threw around a ball - it was lovely because people of all ages would randomly join in and seemed to really enjoy it.  I had forgotten how hard it is running around on sand - by this rate I will either need new knees or I will be ready for the Olympics.  After that I sat on the beach and read whilst listening to my MP3/CD walkman which has a fairly random selection of music on it.  Both Robert (12) and then later Isaac (20) came up and listened to music with me.  It was quite strange with Robert because he came over, basically sat on my knee, plonked one of the headphone plugs in his ear and just listenend - every now and then indicating I should fast forward or showing thumbs up.  I cannot image something like that ever happening with a 12 year old you have met once in the UK.  Anyway it turns out he liked Josh Wink's "Higher State of Conciousness" and "Butterfly" (by Crazytown).  Isaac preferred Robbie Williams "Come Undone" (which in some way was perfect for the mood on the beach), although he says his favourites include R Kelly.

Back at the house we were joined by a few kids including Robert, "Uncle" (about 5 years old, looks like an old man and is only ever referred to as Uncle - no idea if that is his name or not).  They are eager to learn and read.  Given how old Robert is it was hard coming to terms with the fact that he struggled with a Dr Suess book and found a 15 piece jigswaw challenging (he actually struggled a little bit with a 4 piece one).  This is when we can start to put our contribution into context - if we can help Robert read better his chances in life are greatly increased.  It is a bit distressing when you think that he is like this and he is one of the ones who is willing to put in extra effort.

Later we went over to the bar for dinner - I had decided to try Grouper, which turned out to be really nice and meaty.  I also had chips (after a day like I'd had its allowed).

We then sat and talked to Kwesi, the bar manager, all night, about life in general.  He is a really deep and cool guy - he was so happy that Matthew had brought some Dostoyevsky with him and was willing to let him read them - he has been trying to get hold of them for 2 years.  We found out that Kwesi, who has a Chemistry degree, had been on about 3 million cedis a month (£150), but his wages had to be cut due to a slow down at the resort - he considers himself well off.  Amongst the general conversation we found out that there are some video games in town - we are all a bit excited.  This is a country slowly advancing and the two worlds appear to currently overlap - we passed a kid with a hoop and stick on the way to dinner and now we find out there are video games as well.

Home to bed and hope for better things tomorrow.  Today was brought to you by the letters 's' and 'a' and the number 6.

Wednesday 17th (Day 5)

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Spoke to Janice this morning and everything is OK at home - which was good to hear as I am starting to get a little homesick.

On the way to breakfast we discovered there was to be a PTA meeting today starting at 9, 10 or 11 and which would last for 1 or 2 or 3 hours.  It turned out to be from 10am to 1pm (but only because all the parents were an hour late and  someone had to go round ringing the village bell).  The children still turned up for school but the teachers were at the meeting.

Before the meeting there was a hymn session in the secondry school, with drums and 'African' singing and with the children dancing - it was so cool.

The PTA meeting was mind numbing (it was carried out in Fante rather than English because a lot of parents can't speak English).  The Sabre Trust have asked the headmaster to ban caning, which he has done but has not told the parents - in the meeting it appears the parents have noticed and were complaining about the lack of caning.  At regular intervals the outdoor meeting was interupted by sheep walking through it.

We (the volunteers) each had to say something.  I got to explain a little about Phonics and how we hope it will help improve the childrens English - it was lovely to watch the parents copy the 'sssss' snake hand movement and say the word, whilst the translator was talking.  I then went on to say how I would encourage others to come to Ghana (which is true - despite any negative points in my Blog I think this is a lovely place, and the people are genuinely amazing).  As this was translated into Fante there was a large round of applause from the parents and I thougt that was a lovely response.  It turns out this had been translated into "Lots of people are going to come to Brenu in Ghana thanks to Steve" - they may be dissapointed.  When the PTA meeting was finsihed the children had to carry the benches back to their class rooms (mostly balanced on their heads) and then we sent them home, so no teaching today.

At lunch Kwesi allowed us to try Ken-Ke and fish (soaked maize with a fiery chilli sauce and deep fried dried fish - whole).  It was OK actually, although I could happily skip the fish heads.  We then had our lunch of cornish pasty and pizza (we had no choice - they had decided on this for us).  We told them we really want to try lots of different local dishes - hopefully they will cook some.

After lunch we went back to the house where I helped Patricia (9) and Samuel (12) to read Meg, Mog and Owl.  I really hope we can help make a difference because these children come across as really bright and willing - they deserve to do better.

Spoke to mum and was hopefully able to put her mind at rest - we are staying in a fairly basic, but perfectly habitable house, which is clean and has running water and she knows now that I can get chips and chocolate :-)

I set up my digital MP3 player with Kanye West, Robbie and LL Cool J for Isaac to listen to - I think he will like it.  Maybe this weekend I will get some external speakers so I can play music in the house and also to the class.

We went outside and played piggy in the middle with 2 balls and about 10 kids materialised to join in - I love the way they do that.  Eventually I stopped before I had a coronary and then helped Esther with a business plan for a new school - it needs some work as on paper it looks like it would lose money.  To build and run a school for 105 children over 5 years costs about £30,000 - including wages.

Went for dinner - a gorgeous chicken broth followed by chocolate pancakes and washed down with a bottle of wine (pretty much to myself) - then home to write this diary entry, which maybe explains my ramblings.

Thursday 18th (Day 6)

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The mornings are so noisy here, with the cockerals, incessant sweeping and a creature that sounds exactly like Dr Zoidburg from Futurama - makes me smile every time I hear it.

In the morning Aggie started the day with a headache so I went home and got her some tablets - otherwise she would probably have gone home and left me on my own with the kids.  On the way back from getting the tablets Paddy called me over to tell me that he will take me around to see all the teachers at some point.  I took the opportunity to tell him how I was not a church person.  He said that I could sit at the back, so I told him no - I would not go.  He looked dissapointed and wanted to know if the others would go.  I told him that was their decision so he should ask them.  Despite desparately not wanting to go the others decided they would join him anyway - so I will meet them after church.

I was talking to Dorkus, the teacher in Mathews class, during the first of 2 breaks.  She was saying how handsome I was and what a lovely man I was and that I should take her picture so I could show my wife the woman who's child we were going to give money to for school.  I felt very uncomfortable being asked for money in this way - and she kept pressing the point.  It turns out she had done something similar to Morri as well.

After break Aggies headache was getting better so I asked her to take the class and I would help her, but she decided that I should do it.  She is completely unwilling to put in any effort when I am there, and I can see why the children struggle with English - she teaches them in Fante and has trouble with understanding English herself.  I want to find a way of teaching that she can understand and copy going forward - but I am concerned that is asking too much.

The introduction of 2 breaks seems to have made a difference.  Today I read a story to the class - which they seemed to appreciate (even if they could not understand).  There were more fights today, especially when Aggie dissapeared (which she did twice for half an hour at a time).  At one point I pulled a girl out of class (to stop her punching someone else) and made we sit on the ground outside with her hands on her head.  It was only about an hour later (after the second break) that I remembered I had done that - fortunately she had got bored and had rejoined the class without me noticing, but I did feel very bad (until Mathew told me he had done exactly the same thing).

I spent both breaks being chased by all the children of the school - in a plan to wear them all out so they were more subdued during class.  It ended up with me being absolutely knackered and them being really excited and revved up.  I also suffered at the hands of a girl who was too eager to be picked up and ran at full tilt towards we with her arms in the air and did not stop until she crashed into me - in particular thumping me in a place I wish she had not.  Mathew helped lots by laughing whilst I struggled to breath and walk - I don't think I have been hit that hard in that place since primary school.

After school and lunch we went to the beach again for the afternoon (it is amazing how much teaching takes out of you).  On the way I gave the MP3 player to Isaac - who was absolutley chuffed to have some new music to listen to.

We spent the evening at the bar trying to figure out what we can do to make the kids behave and pay more attention.  Fortunately I was able to speak to Janine - my neighbour back home who teaches primary school children.  She told me to never interupt if the children are speaking, to never lose my temper or raise my voice (have been failing on that one - a lot), repeat everything until the child/children do it, keep individual tasks to 20 minutes - then change to a completely different activity.  Something to try tomorrow.

There is a really snotty old lady staying at the beach resort and she is hated by everyone on first site. She is making Kwesi's life hell complaining about everything.  Yesterday though she was walking on the beach and a guy was out with his dogs (on a public beach) and the dogs jumped up on her and ran around her.  She complained to Kwesi (even though it was nothing to do with the resort) and he had a quiet word with the dog owner - who made his day by telling him he did it on purpose because she is such a mare - Kwesi really enjoyed that story.

We also talked about how we identify the kids (we only know some names - and it gets confusing because they have a Fante name and an English name and they chop and change between which they use).  In my class I have 3 of note: "Screwball Gremlin" (the one with the wonky eyes), "Green-String Vest and Snot" boy (have since discovered and remembered his name is Christopher) and my favourite "Serial Killer" who I am sure goes home and manufactures explosives whilst torturing cats - he has the scariest 'dead' eyes with no emotion and a single minded determination about everything.  It is only as I write this that I realise that something has probably happened in his life to make him like that - I hate to think what it could be.

Friday 19th (Day 7)

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Saw Isaac during breakfast, he said he had not slept all night and had been dancing on his bed listening to the MP3 player - he particularly likes Kanye West - he was so happy.

I started the day with only 10 children (Aggie said this was because it was Friday....) - and the difference was amazing - they were so much calmer.  I began with a poem about a friendly monster, acting some of the lines (like "I poked my head out from under the covers") - and the kids picked them up really quickly.  After the poem I used clapping (which they copied) until they were all paying attention.  It was great to have them listen more or less when I asked.

In the morning the children practiced writing 't' and 's' in the childrens "letters" books that Aggie had failed to tell me existed whilst we were using slates.  It is amazing but the most important thing you can have at the school is a pencil sharpener - I had left mine at home and faced a riot until I could borrow Morri's.  I made sure the letter writing finished after about 30 minutes and then we did some singing and I taught them "Two little birdies sitting on a wall, one named Peter, one named Paul", including the thumb actions, and they taught me some traditional songs with unintelligable lyrics.

After break I took my class (which had now grown to 30) for P.E.. I managed to get them to split into 2 teams and then set up 2 relay races - and they got the idea really quickly.  They seemed to have lots of fun, until Aggie went away to tend to a bonfire - just like most teachers in England do (?) and I had to take a message from the headmaster - when I turned back there was a minor riot which I made Aggie sort out when she got back.  After that we played "Jack, where are you?" where all the kids form a circle while 2 kids are blindfolded in the middle and then one "runs away" but has to answer the call of "where are you".  After that we played the game where someone trots around the outside of the circle and taps someone on the back who then has to chase them - the children played this really well for 30 minutes and then we got them back to class and I gave them a 5 minute numbers test (holding up my fingers and they say how many there are) before the second break.

For the final session Aggie wanted them to do drawing so I got them the excersize books my mum had got for me to bring out here.  I got the kids to do a thank you clap and cheer for my mum.  They then spent an hour failing to draw a snake, an apple or a tree - but at least it was something different for them.  They had trouble with my tree example (2 lines for trunk and a fluffy 'cloud' bit on top) and they kept calling it a flower so I asked Aggie how they represent trees in Ghana - she looked at my picture and said "Like that" and I told her the children called it a flower - her response was "It does look like a flower".  I gave up and changed it to a coconut tree and the kids called the picture "'t' for coconut" at which point I gave up with 'tree'.  Not that all that mattered given the fact only 5 of them drew anything anyway.

This lesson I focussed on the method of not interrupting them and then repeating what you want them to do - I cannot believe how much patience this requires and how long you have to do it for ("Serial Killer" boy needed literally 2 minutes of constant repetition in English and Fante before he sat down) but it does more or less work.  I re-read the poem to keep them calm until the bell and then we ended a fairly successful day (it had its moments but I was pleased with how it had gone).  We agreed with the teachers that next week they would open up the childrens toilet block during the school day (which was padlocked for teacher use only) so that the kids did not just go on the playground (for number ones and number twos) and then Emma is going to do a hand washing lecture in each class on Wednesday.  If all we achieve is the children using a toilet at school and washing their hands then our time would not have been wasted.  I am slightly concerned because I can't believe the previous volunteers have not tried this before.

Had to do my washing today.  I love my washing machine - I can't believe how underrated washing machines (and teachers) are.  It is especially nice when a 17 year old girl laughs at you so much she can't speak and then proceeds to teach you how to hand wash with that teenage air of utter contempt.  When I had finished she went and inspected my work on the washing line - I heard he shout "No, No, No" and then she came back in fits of laughter again - I had given up on one white shirt and it is now designated my brownish shirt - she told me she would get it cleaner but my pride couldn't let her do it, although maybe next week if she's around I might see what she would charge...  If anyone ever contemplates coming here (and I hope they do - for holiday or volunteer work) then you need to understand that white is a bad colour for clothes - nothing you can do while you are here will save them. Nothing.

Walked into village to see Dorkus - who wanted to join us in Kankun on Saturday, but Esther is no longer able to take us and we think Esther should be there when Dorkus comes.  In our rooms we are fairly well catered for and comfortable and this hit home when we walked into the village - it was a bit sobering.  It is not the squalor that I had pictured when I first thought about coming here, but that made it worse as almost as everyone is trying so hard to make their homes look respectable with what little they have (note it was dark so my opinion may change in daylight).

Well - the end of week one and it has been an interesting week.  It has been hard and frustrating but I think the three of us who have been teaching are really pleased we are here and despite the difficulties it is a really rewarding experience so far.