Madurai

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Madurai is India at its vibrant and lively best. The fantastic landmark Shri Meenakshi temple complex dominates the city. LP describes it as a ‘riotously baroque example of Dravidian architecture’. The 12 conical temple towers (gopurams) are covered with colourful carvings and images of gods, goddesses and mythical figures. Inside the complex there are many shrines and in the centre, a golden lotus tank. A labyrinth of lamp-lit corridors lead to shrine rooms and murti statues where mysterious rituals are carried out day and night by the thousands of Hindus who come here on pilgrimage. The temple is dedicated to the goddess Meenakshi, wife of Shiva, also known as Parvarti. Shiva is depicted as the dancing god Nataraja, standing on his left leg with his right leg raised to his shoulder, he is the cosmic dancer.

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Each evening, a gloriously ritualistic procession takes place inside the temple. Shiva (a murti) is placed inside a silver chariot and is carried from his shrine to that of Meenakshi, in the ‘putting the gods to bed’ ceremony! The procession is followed by hundreds of bare chested, ash smeared, mantra chanting Hindus. Men with blazing clubs of fire lead the chariot through the temple corridors and a serious looking man stands by the chariot waving a giant peacock feather – presumably for Shiva’s personal comfort! On my first night in Madurai, I saw very little of the procession, getting thrown out for being non-Hindu and in the way. I was so intrigued however, I returned the following evening, arriving early enough to find a spot where I could blend in with the masses while remaining close to the action. This time however, I was actively embraced, my forehead painted with yellow tikka and my wrists adorned with jasmine blossoms. Literally hundreds of people wanted to shake hands and offered Namaste greetings and fantastically, everybody wanted to be in my photographs! The ceremony was truly an exhilarating and unforgettable experience and really brought the Hindu faith to life for me.

a serious looking man stands by the chariot waving a giant peacock feather – presumably for Shiva’s personal comfort!

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Rather less fun, as is always the case, all temple visitors must leave their shoes behind come rain or shine. The vast temple complex became very slimy, muddy in the rain and it was necessary to wade through brown slippery puddles to move between shrine areas. After the procession, I also had to walk around the city barefoot looking for the shoe deposit, having followed the crowds leaving through the traditional exit rather than the one I knew about! By this point, I was splattered from head to toe (especially toe!) in mud and worse and was finding my shoeless status quite liberating! The rain continued to fall in sheets and with no sufficient drainage, the roads soon turned in to rivers. With trousers rolled up, we waded our way through the city in knee deep water, stopping often in chai houses to escape the relentless weather.

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Besides the Sri Meenakshi temple, travelers are also attracted to Madurai’s lively street markets and animated bazaars. Historic documents indicate that the city has been popular for trade since 4^th century BC. The fabulous flower market is a crowded and colourful spectacle, boasting heaps of gloriously scented jasmine and marigolds for pilgrim puja offerings. Madurai is also known for being the city where Gandhi made his decision in 1921 to wear the dhoti (loin cloth). The blood stained dhoti that he was wearing when he was shot can be viewed in the city’s Gandhi memorial museum – oddly this optional activity did not appeal! Madurai was fascinating and awe-inspiring and once again, after only 2 days, I was loathed to be leaving so soon.