Living the Simple Life on Kenai Beach

Securing the Seating Arrangements
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Kenai (pronounced /keen'-eye/) is another one of those small towns in South Central Alaska that got quick money once the Swanson River pipeline got up and running. Naturally as a result of this, for the next 30 years the economy of the area experienced a sort of boom that lead to the "mini suburban sprawl" that makes it look almost exactly like Soldotna, it's neighbor and biggest rival for attention. Kenai also has the Kenai Peninsula's main "airport" that shuttles travelers conveniently over Cook Inlet to and from Anchorage, 20 minutes away by a twin engine otter. But the fact still remains: you still have to drive through Soldotna to get to Kenai by car from Seward or Anchorage (So there, Kenai! Soldotna wins!).

It May Be the End of the Earth, but it's Still America, Baby!
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Actually, I'm not being very fair. Kenai has drop-dead gorgeous cliff-side scenery (particularly near the graceful onion-domed Russian Orthodox church that dates back a little over 100 years), art galleries and shops focusing on Native Alaskan arts and culture, a scattering of charming coffee houses with really kickin' live music and good places to eat (and no, not just fast-food restaurants!). It's really unpretentious and laid-back, a real place for real people. When I stand on the cliffs out over the mouth of Kenai River, I can just smell the history on the wind along with the wafting of salmon just caught from the fishing fleets.

...this is still "God, Guns and Gold" country.

Mount Redoubt Looming on a Cook Inlet Sunset
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But in my heart and mind, the most beautiful place to go, and the part of Kenai that seems to steal the hearts of tourists, is Kenai Beach. An endless stretch of hard-packed gray sand, Kenai Beach (as opposed to the dangerous, muddy flats of Turnagain Arm outside of Anchorage), is the place to have your high school drinking parties and prom night romances. People also come here for spotting beluga whales, catching monster-size king salmon before they head up the Kenai River (the mouth of which is in you guessed it: Kenai), kite-flying or barbecuing (as long as fires are permitted). The view across the inlet is impressive with the jagged peaks of Mt. Redoubt, Illiamna and Mt. Spur volcanoes on the horizon, two of which have erupted in recent history. Come here for the sunsets, the fishing or just to listen to the waves crash musically along the shore. Beachcombing can surprise you with tiny pink clamshells (wrapped in pretty origami paper, they make lucky Japanese charms!), mussels, even orange or yellow agate.

Local Private Fish Camp
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A warning, though: Many of the locals tolerate tourism because it helps the economy, but it's probably safe to say that Alaskans in general live in this isolated part of the world "to get away from the crowds." Therefore, they normally don't take kindly to uninvited people invading their space. Parking places for public use along Kenai Beach are clearly marked by signs. But as in the rest of Alaska, the general rule is: if it's not marked clearly, don't park there. The side roads are all privately-owned and many a disgruntled Kenai land-owner have been known to scare off unwanted squatters with a rifle blast or two. Remember, this is still "God, Guns and Gold" country. Oh, and littering, fish-poaching and lighting non-permitted fires are punishable with steep fines and there are always police on patrol. That being said, please enjoy your stay in Kenai. :-)