I Missed My Camel Ride

We arrived back in Cairo at the Giza train station at about 5:45 in the morning and were met by none other then Ahkmet. He and George were waiting for us to arrive and when we came in we walked to the van and loaded our bags in the back. We boarded the van and got the run down on our “last” day in Cairo. We figured out on the train that we accidentally booked our return flight on the wrong day so we either changed our flight or spent an extra day in Cairo. We talked with Ahkmet about it and he would check and see if we could stay in the hotel an extra night. He said it wouldn’t be a problem and he would give us ideas of things we could see. Once we got back to the hotel we checked in and went upstairs to our room for a break. We were supposed to meet Ahkmet back down in the lobby at 8:30am so with the time I took a nap and Leon went down to the casino. I only slept for about 45 minutes then got up and freshened up and changed clothes and then watched TV until Leon came back up and we headed down to find Ahkmet.

By the time we met Ahkmet he had arranged for us to stay the extra night in the hotel and we paid him for it. Then he gave us the option of doing a day trip to Alexandria or to an Oasis town which I can’t remember the name of or to stay in Cairo and go see the Dahshure pyramids and the Citadel. We decided to go for the Dahshure pyramids and the Citadel and then do the extra Cairo by night tour for our last night. I was excited to have that all sorted out and paid for. It actually wasn’t all that expensive which was nice. After all the business was done we met Shima, our day guide from our first time in Cairo, and headed out to Memphis. No, not the home of Elvis and Graceland, the original Memphis in Egypt. Memphis was a drive away so we chatted with Shima while George maneuvered us through the Cairo traffic. Once we made it out to Memphis we were dropped off to see what was around. And sadly there wasn’t much. Most of the city had either been destroyed or was still buried under the new city. But we did see a giant statue of Ramses the 2^nd, as well as a sphinx, a sarcophagus and some other random pieces. It was cool to see but not as exciting as the pyramids or the museum.

After we finished up at Memphis we drove out to Saqqara to see the first pyramid ever built in Egypt. It was the step pyramid built in 2630BC for King Djoser. His brilliant court physician and architect Imhotep the idea to build the tomb in the pyramid shape. The Saqqara step pyramid has six steps reaching up 204 feet. At the time it was built it was the tallest building in the world. Imhotep later became founder of a cult of healing and was deified 1,400 years after his lifetime. Interestingly King Djoser is not actually buried in the pyramid but in a small temple next to it. To get to the pyramid who have to walk through a temple that was built to celebrate the Pharaoh. The pyramid was really cool to see and we got the chance to walk around it. The pyramid is very unstable so on the back side they are in the process of reconstructing it so that it will continue to hold. Leon and I both found it ironic that in this day and age with technology where it is the guys doing the reconstruction were hand carrying big stones up and placing them the same way they probably did it 4,500 years ago. We walked all the way around the pyramid then to the entrance were we got some good pictures then walked to find Shima.

Once we were back in the van with Shima and George she offered to take us to a really good lunch buffet so we decided it sounded like a good idea. We drove back to the city and went to lunch. Shima joined us for lunch and poor George was stuck in the van waiting. After lunch we drove to the old city where George dropped us off and we walked around with Shima. We saw some old roman towers, the old Byzantine church called the Hanging Church (because it is built on top of one of the roman towers so it’s hanging over the ground) and the Jewish Synagogue. The church was beautiful and I got some pictures of the amazing wood carving that was in the church. Even in such a beautiful church we were horrified to see some pulling out the letters and cards people had put in the offering box to Mother Mary and ripping them up and putting them in the trash. What surprised Leon and I was that they did it in the middle of the day in the middle of the church with people around. The Synagogue was beautiful as well and I was sad to hear it is no longer in use, just a relic of the past. Apparently the there are no practicing Jews in Egypt, at least not ones that go to any of the ancient Synagogues. Which is really for there own safety and I understand that but it’s still a shame to see the beautiful places of worship go to waste. Shima told us that the Israeli government provides money to Egypt to entrust the upkeep of the Synagogues. So if nothing else they are pretty places to visit.

When we finished at the old city Shima and George drove us back to the hotel and dropped us off. We walked around the hotel lobby and Leon exchanged some more money. Then we checked out the menus of the restaurants in the hotel. We were considering either the Lebanese or the Moroccan restaurants, but neither of us were that hungry after the buffet and the Moroccan restaurant was 1) really expensive and 2) a large meal with a show. So after all that we decided to relax for a while and figure it out later. So Leon went and got a massage while I sat in the room and journaled and watched TV. By the time he got back I was into the Da Vinci Code so we ordered room service for dinner. I was really excited to have a French dip sandwich which when it arrived was more like a steak sandwich then a French dip. There was no au jus and it was not roast beef in the sandwich but steak. But none the less is was really tasty. We ate and watched the movie and when it was over I put the food tray out in the hall and we went to bed. And yes, it was only like 10:30.

I got up the next morning at 7:30 and got ready then woke Leon up at 7:50. Once we were both dressed and ready we went down to have breakfast at the buffet. Then ran back up to the room to grab our stuff for the day and met Ahkmet in the lobby at 9:00am. When Shima arrived we boarded the van and drove with her out to Dahshure to see the other early pyramids. It took an hour to drive out to the pyramids and we went through a village crowded with people. The road was unpaved and bumpy and there were donkeys pulling carts and people fighting for flat bread at a bakery. It was a very poor area so we got to see another side of Egypt, which personally I always think is good as it makes you appreciate what you have. The Dahshure pyramids are in a government restricted area so we had to go through a security stop and then we where only allowed to specific places.

Our first stop was the Red Pyramid. The Red Pyramid was Egypt’s first true pyramid, it built around 2600 BC by Pharaoh Senfru and is 341 feet tall. He made a couple other attempts at the classic pyramid the second of which ended up with bent lines going up to the point. It is appropriately called the Bent Pyramid. At the Red Pyramid we got out and took some pictures of the outside while Shima talked about the history of the pyramid. Then she gave us the tickets to go inside. I was a little worried about going in as I get a little claustrophobic but I figured I would try it. We climbed up to the opening and Leon lead the way in. Not only was I wearing my leather sandals I bought in Greece which were not the right foot wear for hiking through a pyramid. But regardless about half way down I started getting claustrophobic and turned around. I came and sat to the side of the opening and did a little meditation and deep breathing to settle my nerves back down. I sat up there and took in the view until Leon made it back out then we walked down to the bottom of the pyramid and took a few more picture before climbing into the van. From there we drove around the Red Pyramid and then down a little ways to get a better look at the Bent Pyramid. That one we were not allowed to go up close to or in as it's not structurally safe. But we got some pictures of it which came out pretty good if I do say so myself.

When we finished up our Dahshure sight seeing, we got back in the van and prepared for the long drive back to the city. We went directly to the Citadel where George dropped us off and we walked up into the fort. Shima walked us through the lower part so that we could make a bathroom stop. I was the first out and in the process of waiting for the Leon and Shima I was again surrounded by junior high or high school girls that wanted to take a picture with me. So I posed for a few pictures with some girls and when Leon came out he pulled out his camera to get a shot of me surrounded. When Shima got out we left the girls behind and walked up to the Citadel which is a fort but also holds the largest mosque in Egypt the Mohammed Ali Mosque. And no, this is not Mohammed Ali the boxer with the famous “dance like a butterfly sting like a bee” line. No, this is Mohammed Ali the 19^th century Turkish King that ruled a united Egypt. Before we got into the mosque I had to put on an extra robe, who knows why because I was wearing pants and I short sleeve shirt that came down to my elbows. But I put on the big green robe thing and we took off our shoes before going in. Shima told us about the mosque and Mohammed Ali while we were standing inside the mosque. Then she gave us some free time to take pictures and walk around. The mosque was gorgeous. The majority of the mosque was made of alabaster brought up from Aswan. But along with all the beautiful white alabaster there was wood sections that were intricately carved and amazing. I tried to get some close up pictures of the carvings but they didn’t come out all that well so if you really want to see what I’m talking about you need to go to Egypt. I’ll be happy to give anyone the website for out tour company SunEast.

When our time was up in the mosque we met Shima outside and she showed us a great view of the city from the terrace outside the mosque. On the walk back to the van we each got an ice cream bar courtesy of Leon which was a tasty treat. When we got back to the van we drove down the hill and dropped Shima off to catch her bus home. We thanked her for being such a wonderful guide and sharing all her knowledge and culture with us. I really liked Shima, she was a sweet woman and I liked getting to know not only her but her sharing about life in modern Egypt. You know me and the cultural stuff I like. George drove us back to the hotel and dropped us off with a reminder that he and Ahkmet would be back at 7:00pm to pick us up for Cairo by night. We went up to the room briefly then headed for the casino so Leon could play. I just went along for entertainment factor.

I cut the first deck and it went nutty. I think Leon won 700$ in that one shuffle. When he started winning he put me in the game with his winnings, so I ended up playing and winning too. I think I got up to 350$ then lost to 300$ and walked away. He continued playing without me. I went up to the bar area and ordered some fries as a snack since we wouldn’t be eating until late. Of course that’s when I found out that at the casino all the food is free for people who play. If we had known that we could have gone down and played a bit then ordered dinner and eaten on the casino instead of paying for it. Oh well. Leon came up and ate with me when the food arrived then we both went back down to try our luck. This time I put down 20$ of my money and I got it up to almost 100$ for a while but when I started losing I walked away with an additional 50$ of winnings. So all in all I made 350$ at the casino. Leon didn’t fair nearly so well. I went upstairs with my winnings and left Leon trying to get a streak back. I went up to the room and watched some TV, changed clothes, and just relaxed. Leon came up briefly to hit the bathroom before we went downstairs to meet Ahkmet.

When arrived in the lobby at 7:00pm and found Ahkmet waiting for us. We got into the van and drove directly to our first stop which was a felucca ride. We drove to a dock then walked down and Leon, Ahkmet and I got on a felucca and sailed up and down the Nile. It was amazing to be on the river in a boat with no motor and have all the sounds of the city although still audible seem very far away. It was calming and relaxing and a beautiful way to see the city lights without being in the middle of it. There was just wind and water and the gliding motion of the boat.

After our felucca ride we got back into the van and drove up to a hill on the east side of the city. It’s one of the newly developed areas and we drove out to the edge of the hill. We got out and walked on the edge on the dirt paths that looked out over the city with all its lights. Ahkmet told us it was the place all the young people came on dates to go parking and what not. It reminded me of the Mesa or the Riviera or the 154 in Santa Barbara. Driving up above the city and looking down at all the “fairy lights” as I used to call them. Walking around up there made me think of home in Santa Barbara and miss it for the first time since I left. I was getting cold walking around on the hill with the wind blowing a bit. So after our walk we got back into the van and drove back down the hill towards the city. We stopped off to see the Egyptian tomb of the Unknown Soldier that is shaped like a pyramid. We stopped just long enough to take a few pictures then moved on to the old city and stopped outside of one of the mosques for a few more pictures. From there we drove through downtown Cairo and through the shopping area which was lit up like Vegas. There were fluorescent light shining in every store that could burn your retinas if you looked to long. We didn’t stop we just drove through but it was interesting to see so many people out shopping at 10 o’clock at night.

After our little drive through the city we headed to a quite spot along the Nile for dinner at the Sea Horse Club. We both got the shish kebab meal and mango juices. The food was good and we talked while sitting by the river. There was a belly dancer dancing for entertainment for another group of tourist. She was pretty good but I’ve seen better. Dinner was good and we ate quickly because we were both so hungry by the time we got dinner. It was after 10:30 and we hadn’t eaten for a long time. We left shortly after we finished dinner and were driven back to the hotel. When we got back to the hotel I went up and took a shower before getting in bed while Leon went to the casino and played until about 2:00am.

The next morning I got up about 9:15am and got dressed then woke Leon up at 9:45. I packed up my stuff while he got dressed. When he was ready we went downstairs to the breakfast buffet and ate. When we finished we had a little time so Leon went back to the casino for one last run and I went to the book store and bought postcards of Egypt to send out. Then I went upstairs and watched TV until Leon came up and we packed up the last of our stuff and went downstairs to check out of the hotel. Ahkmet came and picked us up and he and George drove us to the airport. George was sweet and brought me a red rose as a present. The guys got us out to the airport and Ahkmet put us in the correct line to go through security where we could check in for our flight.

We said our goodbyes and thank yous to George and Ahkmet and went through security. Then we checked into our flight and dropped off our suitcases. And did the whole airport routine of immigration/passport control, security again and then walked to our gate. The current Cairo airport is old and ghetto but it looks like they are in the process of building a new one. Once we got to our gate we waited to board the plane. I passed time by journaling then reading my book. Leon read and then listened to music. We boarded the plane early and got in our seats. I spent the majority of the flight reading my book while Leon slept. We got fed again and the food was decent, better then the train food we ate. And then we were back in Bahrain!

I had a wonderful time touring Egypt and would love to someday go back and see more. Or maybe see some of the same stuff but be able to spend more time at them, enough to really appreciate and enjoy them. I will say bummer of the trip was that I missed my camel ride. I didn’t get one when we got back to Cairo so I missed out. But as I say there is always next time and now I have a reason to go back. I wouldn’t mind seeing the magic of Egypt again and I would recommend it to anyone who wants to go. I hope you enjoyed these blogs and if you have any questions about places I visited or experiences, feel free to email me.