Leeuwenboschfontein

Leeuwenboschfontein is only 220km from Cape Town and the drive alone makes it worthwhile.

The Hex River is surely the most beautiful valley in the country. Surrounded by majestic mountains, at this time of year many covered with glistening snow. Wave upon wave of vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, in spring pregnant with bunches of purple and green grapes. It’s not surprising that it’s one of the richest farming areas in South Africa.

4X4, hiking, mountains and views

As we head for the Hex Pass we search the Western Capes highest mountain, Matroosberg at 2 249m, for the rock image of the matroos (sailor) on the side.

Climbing the pass we come across a truck, in a ditch, this one carrying oranges to Cape Town. On the way home we noticed odd sheets of paper littering the landscape, when suddenly, turning a bend on the steep descent we came across a sheet of white. Was it snow? No, another truck had gone through the barrier, coming to rest on the road below. It’s alleged the driver had fallen asleep. This truck had been carrying paper and there were reams lining the road, some of the packages smashed open, their contents strewn everywhere.

First impression driving through Leeuwenboschfontein’s entrance, adorned with lions, yellow daisies and lion logo, is how immaculate the place is. We were then warmly greeted by resident Joan and Johnny who are responsible for caring for the place.

Lazing on the lawn were our companions for the weekend, Pauline Hennigan, last-minute booking Alta Wewege and Sandy MacDonald, and of course my co-passenger Steve Wilson.

Our accommodation for the night was huge, with a bedroom for each of us. Such a waste in a hiking club with 200-odd members. No sooner had the kettle boiled than Jannie, son of Jannie and Elsa du Plessis, treated us to a 4X4 tour of the farm.

The five of us drove in a Land Rover while a family of four, plus three dogs and Jannie’s friend came behind in a bakkie.

While negotiating the track that bypassed the dam on the opposite side of the road, Jannie told us how his parents came by their “seaside cottage by the sea”.

“They bought the farm on auction about eight years ago,” said Jannie. “It’s about 1 280ha and was one of three farms that grew potatoes at that time.”

We asked about the runway and Jannie said that the previous farmer was illegally exporting fertilised ostrich eggs to Namibia. (Maybe this is the reason for the farm being auctioned………………..)

The family wanted to keep the place to themselves but around 2001 decided to open it up to 4X4 enthusiasts: “As long as they keep to the roads,” said Jannie explaining that the roads were initially laid out when the family wanted to reach the outskirts of the farm.

“Family and friends were soon trying out the roads,” said Jannie explaining how the trails came about.

Each of the 4X4 routes was designed and engineered by the du Plessis family said Jannie, describing how is dad is an adventure seeker, even aged 60-plus years.

“Nothing is too difficult for him,” said Jannie, adding that his mum will also give it a go.

During the 1980s, said Jannie, there was a climatic change with less water, so farmers stopped grazing sheep.

“But there’s more water now,” he said going on to show us where the dam wall had broken and the road had been washed away.

After driving through ditches and over dongas, followed by flattish terrain, we crossed the tar road to enter the tougher 4X4 area of the farm. As we climbed higher the sculpted hills of the Swartberg portrayed the complex ridges of the Cape Folded system in this Nougaspoort. Surely it must be a painter’s paradise.

As he negotiated difficult turns and obstacles, Jannie talked of his passion for creating an orphanage in the family hometown of Malmesbury. The dream is to accommodate 30 children aged 0 to 7 years. He already has a house and a house-mother and has even looked after a few children.

Jannie talked of a two-month-old baby, enormous eyes from a sunken head, proof of being underfed; heck the child didn’t even have a name. The mother had been gaoled for killing her husband. During the first week in the orphanage the infant gained 300grams. Jannie named him Adam and I’m sure that he is one of many that this kind-hearted man will save.

The orphanage receives donations of food from Sasko and Bokomo but he is looking for other businesses to help out in some way.

Belying his soft, gentle nature, Jannie then demonstrated the versatility of a Landie by driving up a ramp to make one of the wheels airborne – a photographer’s dream! He then pointed out the grade 5 section of trail but its closed most of the time.

“It’s so rough it’s a sort-of build your own road section,” said Jannie.

And despite our slow, bumpy progress ascending the mountain we were suddenly on top with wraparound views of far-away mountains from the glass enclosed lapa, with its central braai.

If you go there you must visit the lou. Apart from the door, which is built around the rock wall, it’s designed with a view overlooking Arangieskop, near Robertson, plus a urinal.

After Klippie’s and Coke for the driver, it was time for the descent, not easy considering our altitude.

“It’s called Daytona,” said Jannie of the final section of the road, in low range and first gear.

What a magic ride, against a background of the Karoo and passing through the unique Renosterveld, which is becoming rare because of agriculture and farming. It may be more uninteresting than fynbos but in summer it will be a myriad colourwash of daisies etc.

Back at the house, colder than the outside temperature, we lit a fire and huddled around it as the temperature plummeted. After lots of wine, food and good company it was time for bed.

Next morning, woken to the silence and chorus of birds, we set off cross country heading for Leeuwenboschfontein (marked Swartberg on the trig map), at 1 418m.

“It’s like climbing Lion’s Head,” said Sandy using his GPS to measure our altitude and distance.

The final walk along the orange lichen covered ridge was stunning but the views even more so as we reached the summit.

Descending to the lapa for tea, we met up with the vehicle that had made it to the top at almost the same progress as we hikers.

Back at the farmhouse we slowly packed and reluctantly left but with a glorious drive to look forward to.

N.B. Pauline noticed what pain I was (I probably sneezed!) in from a recent fall on the mountain, breaking or cracks ribs, amongst other minor injuries, and offered me a Reiki treatment. I jumped at it having had two Reiki treatments for my knees in Peru before doing the Inca Trail, known for its many steps. I didn’t feel a twinge.

Sunday was the first time I hiked since the accident, almost three weeks before, and I felt fine.

Because Pauline lives in the northern suburbs she recommended someone in my area and I went for a follow-up treatment on Tuesday July 17. I hiked two days later and was also fine, in fact I can hardly feel the sore ribs anymore and am even sleeping on that side, something I couldn’t do before.

So if you have aches, pains, injuries, migraines etc give Pauline a callpjhennigan@gmail.com

Details:

The trails are graded 3-4 in Drive Out magazine and Leeuwenboschfontein was rated in the top 10 in 2006.

Some of the trails are suitable for 4X2 vehicles, route distance 17km taking 3 to 4 hours.

Leeuwenboschfontein is 28km from Touws River, 70km from Montagu, 90km from Worcester and 220km from Cape Town.

Best time is year-round with a maximum of 20 vehicles. The farmhouse is at 1 030m making it cooler at night in summer but very cold during winter.

Tyres should be inflated to 1.5.

Accommodation is for small or large groups, basic camping or luxury farmhouse as well as conventions.

Don’t miss the clear night skies, ideal for star gazing and bring along binoculars and bird books and add to the already long list of bird visitors.

For bookings visit www.leeuwenboschfontein.co.za or call