Days 1 & 2: Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik Church Bells
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Start your trip in Dubrovnik, Croatia’s southernmost city also called the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’. Known as the Republic of Ragusa in the Middle Ages, in the 15th and 16th centuries this city-state was said to rival Venice in wealth, diplomacy, the sciences and the arts. While the dramatic beaches are a huge draw, Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the real gem.

Getting to Dubrovnik

For nightlife, patrons of numerous bars and pubs in alleyways off Stradun and Gundulic Square spill out into the streets.

Dubrovnik Onofrios Fountain
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Unfortunately there are no direct flights from the US to Croatia yet, but you can connect through a European hub such as London, Frankfurt, Vienna, Dublin or Budapest, and fly into Dubrovnik.

European low-cost carries such as SkyEurope Airlines and Thomson fly from regional airports in London to Dubrovnik.

Another alternative if you’re already in Italy is to make your way down to Bari and take a 9-hour overnight ferry to Dubrovnik

You may need to overnight in Dubrovnik before your international flight out, which is why I recommend spending 2 nights here initially, then 1 on the end.

Dubrovnik Palace Beach
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If you are not leaving Croatia until late and are sure you can get back to Dubrovnik in time, stay 3 nights on the front end and none on the return.

Where to Stay in Dubrovnik

Croatia is only recently becoming a high-end destination and the hotels can be sorely lacking in charm, amenities or both. Dubrovnik has a number of good hotels at a range of prices.

If you want a resort feel and don’t mind being a shuttle or cab ride away from Old Town, the Dubrovnik Palace is superlative. While the boxy rooms feel more like a nondescript business hotel than seaside resort, each has a balcony overlooking the sea and the hotel’s fabulous location right on the Adriatic will make you feel like you’re truly on vacation.

Dubrovnik Palace Beach 2
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One note: the main beach area near the pool (and bear in mind this is a Mediterranean pebbly beach) is the best for swimming, as the staff has dutifully removed the sea urchins from the rocks below. There are more private areas for sunbathing along the path past the dive shop, just watch out for black spiny creatures in the deep in this area

The Dubrovnik Palace offers an adult and family pool, a fitness center, tennis courts, a dive center, 3 restaurants and 4 bars.

Dubrovnik View Dubrovnik Palace Balcony
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A sundowner at the Sunset Lounge is a must whether staying at the hotel or not, and their extensive breakfast buffet with outdoor seating high above the Adriatic is a wonderful way to start your day.

Another accommodation selection is the Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik situated right outside the city walls and Pile Gate.

The location is ideal for sightseeing and nightlife as you’re a 2-10 minute walk to the action, but not within the city walls where it can get congested and overwhelming, especially in mid-July during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival and August when hordes of Italians and day-tripping cruise-goers swarm the streets.

Be sure to request a room with soaring ceilings and huge windows.

If you are looking to splurge and enjoy being in the center of the action, the legendary Pucic Palace is a lovely choice. The splendid stone façade and 19 sumptuous antique-filled rooms have lodged senators, dignitaries, artists and well-heeled travelers since the 18th century.

The Grand Villa Argentina, located a 15-minute uphill walk from Old Town comprises 5 different hotels with outstanding grounds and views of the city. Unfortunately the rooms were badly in need of an upgrade when visiting last summer. The planned renovations will bring this property back to its former glory when they are finally executed.

 To Do in Dubrovnik An afternoon walk along the city walls is essential for unparalleled vistas and photo ops. Gaze across the clusters of traditional red rooftops and church spires, watching the women hanging wash high above narrow cobblestone alleys with children playing down below.

Within the city walls, visit Onofrio’s Fountains, one at each of the main gates, Pile and Ploce, erected in 1438 so people entering could wash to prevent bringing the Plague into this noble city.

Meander down Stradun, the main wide street, stopping for a gelato or souvenir shopping.

If you can find it, catch the sunset at Buza Bar, a delightful spot with tables and umbrellas clinging to the side of the old wall. Kick back with an Ozujsko beer or Caprioska, a delicious beverage made with vodka, brown sugar, mint and crushed ice, and watch the locals gracefully dive into the icy blue water. You’ll probably also spy some not-so-graceful tourists belly-flopping from a towering crag into the sea after a few cocktails.

The pizza is surprisingly good (or not so amazing given Croatia’s proximity to Italy) so be sure to sample. Beware the shellfish – my travel companion became ill after eating mussels as the ‘top’ restaurant in Dubrovnik.

For nightlife, patrons of numerous bars and pubs in alleyways off Stradun and Gundulic Square spill out into the streets.

For clubs, the beachfront Eastwest Club offers a great location, DJs and exotic cocktails…just ignore the go-go dancers behind the banquettes.

The Latino Club Fuego across from the Hilton outside Pile Gate is a multi-level dance club, which doesn’t feature anything Latin, but is an entertaining spot nonetheless for fine music and drinks.