Wandering about Copenhagen

Boutique
see all photos »

Copenhagen is a great city to wander around in. Surrounded by seas, and dotted with canals, lakes and castles, it has vibrance, culture, history and style. There is a constant flurry of maintenance to keep up the colourful building facades. Something to be said for gentrification.

Lots of things to see and do in the city, but since I was staying for five full days, I was in no rush: I had a list of places I wanted to go to, but took a loose and rambly approach it all. "Just be" is what Copenhagen said to me.

"A strong fish needs a strong drink"

Note the numbered, green switches
see all photos »

I spent the majority of my time exploring the many pedestrian streets, funky shops, and following my nose to enticing bageris (bakeries) to sample wienerbrod (Danish pastries). It was early October, and though the skies were overcast for the most part, the sidwalk cafes were filled.

In Nyhavn, historically a shady fisherman's wharf, and now a tremendously picturesque (and thus frequently postcarded) area along the canal, I stopped at Nyhavns Færgekro, recommended as being an inexpensive place to sample Danish herring.

Latin Quarter
see all photos »

I wouldn't say I'm a herring-type by nature or nurture, but a herring sildeborde (buffet) ought to be the place to find out for sure. On offer were 15 distinct & delicious herring options: baked, smoked, pickled, curried, spiced, creamed, roll-mopped, stewed, and a lot more besides. A definite win for the fish-inclined.

Warning note: this is a highly specialized buffet concept. Don't expect to find much on offer besides herring. No salad. No vegetables. Even the stew was pretty much just onion and herring. Only some tasty Danish bread to complement perfectly piscivorous meal.

Window in the Round tower
see all photos »

I had ordered an Elephant beer to go with the fish, but the waiter came around with a basket of homemade aquavit (schnapps). 90% alchohol. They dilute it with some other strong alcohol. I was quite hesitant about how this would go with my beer, but the waiter informed me that "a strong fish needs a strong drink", and then added that he'd pack me into a cab if I got unruly.  Rose, Orange Spice, Walnut Leaf... Walnut Leaf schnapps? I ordered one shot of that. Ugh. Grain alcohol with a hint of something stronger and more bitter. Probably should have gone with the orange spice.

Big enough to drive a chariot?
see all photos »

Some bits of Advice

Amelienborg Palads: Just don't sit down anywhere here. For example, you might think it's a perfectly nice, out-of-the-way step, ideal place for checking for recommended lunch options. But this is where I got yelled at by a guard. From across the square. I was completely oblivious. Had to make quite a scene before I caught on, so I'm featured in a number of tourist videos.

Rundetarn: I have no particular advice other than it's a pleasant tower and I liked the story about the Tsarina who drove her carriage up it in the 1700s in hot pursuit of an unruly Tsar. (Probably had too much aquavit with his herring).

Me in the Round tower
see all photos »

Frederikskirken (Marble dome cathedral): Tours at 1pm, prompt. Actually, I got there at 1pm exactly and they were already gone, so be early if you want to climb to the top for a view of the city.

Little Mermaid statue: I wasn't going to go here, but I did, because I discovered that my rambles had taken me to the area anyway. I actually liked it. Though, I liked the walk getting there just as much. I suspect I would be wholly disappointed if I got in a bus specifically for it. (Take the time to look at the  Gefion fountain and pretty church (10 mins away). A stroll around the Kastellet battlements .

To the observation deck
see all photos »

Christiana: Cool & suprisingly large hippie refuge that declared itself free and separate from Denmark in 1971. No taxes, and no laws, just rules. 4 of them.   It's colourful, pretty and surprisingly organized by day, and something of an interesting political experiement too. (1000 inhabitants. Self-governing).

At night, there's a certain vibe created by the barrels of fire and the crowd huddled around them on "Pusher Street" that doesn't sit well with your average North American.  But don't let that scare you.

View of Copenhagen
see all photos »

Christiana doesn't show up on the official city maps I saw, but it's definitely worth a trip before the (rumoured to be inevitable) government shut- down. Drop by for lunch at Morgenstedet restaurant and order a fabulous and cheap vegetarian meal. Oh, and rinse out your own dishes. Thanks.

Another choice,if you have a bit more coin, is Spiseloppen. Hip, organic gourmet fare that's relatively reasonably-priced. Unfortunately only open for dinner. More about the restaurant in particular and Christiana in general here.

Nyhavn - classic view of Copenhagen canals
see all photos »

Tivoli: Actually, I didn't go because it was closed for the season. It did open for Hallowe'en night, but I was supposed to be just passing through. Despite all the recommendations, I'm not particularly sad to have missed this.

Youth Hostel on Hans Christian Andersen Blvd: Centrally located, enormous and brand new, it is the most trendy hostel I've stayed in. Spartan, pristine, sleek. Imagine if Martha Stewart was allowed to redesign her cell block. And all for the low price of 130 kroner per night.

Colourful houses for ships in the fog... so rumour has it
see all photos »

Hotels are pricey in Scandinavia. Youth hostels, are definitely not just for youths. I met some cool professors, museum curators, and travelling grandmas along with the usual gap year/round-the-world adventurer types.  One woman even came into my room with a baby carriage. I wanted to switch rooms on the spot. Sleep in the laundry room, anything... But, odder than bringing an infant into a room shared with 5 strangers, is bringing a full-on baby carriage, sans le bébé.  Puzzling. Very puzzling.