Love at first sight

Hagia Sofia at night
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I landed at Ataturk International Airport in the late afternoon without a hotel, without a map, without a plan.  I did have an address off the net for a hostel very near the ancient quarter.

Instead of jumping in the first taxi that came a waving I found the metro station in the terminal and rode it with the help of a fellow directing me to a tram which took me to the Sultanhamet neighborhood which has the main attractions of historical interest.

I was even able to locate the hostel I was seeking with minimal backtracking.  That alone made me very fond of the city.  The room, on the other hand did not.  It had six beds crowded two inches apart.  I have gotten spoiled and will have to adjust to the more expensiıve world coming up.

An outside eatery within view of the Blue Mosque
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Walking out of the place with the intention of finding another hostel I came right into the park that links the Blue Mosque with the Hagia Sofia.  The park contains two obelisks from Egypt and beds of tulips I later discovered when I returned the next morning.

I was asked by a carpet salesman to enter his shop for a cup of tea.  Ahmed is a fat fellow with two obedient sons and a lot of rugs.  I got tea and a lot of chat and some lessons in carpets, their markings and meanings.

A look into the cistern built by Justinian
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The next day I moved out to a hostel called the Big Apple which has a 4 bed dorm wıth a small balcony and free internet and breakfast for 16 USD.  I got my laundry done (Taloo Talay!) and managed to get snared by another carpet salesman.  You could easily spend your entire time in Istanbul floating from one tea serving salesman to another.  This guy was such a trip.  He showed me these lovely carpets and claimed I could buy them for only 20 USD.  I asked him again and again.  4x6 hand embroıdered wool rug for 20 bucks.  Impossible you say.  And you would be right.  I was spotted by Ahmed and when I told him of the offer he suggested I go back and see what the price is now.  The guy was a tease who just flat out lies about his pricing.  I asked him didn't he anger people with this charade.  He seemed to get a kick out of it.

one of the two Medusa heads in the back corner of the cistern
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I then did a bit of touristy stuff like climb down to see the cistern of the ancient city.  Then to the Topkapi palace mostly because I really needed a public bathroom.  My system has been off since Tanzania meaning I am overregular.

The setting of the palace is positively San Franciscan.  High on a hill looking out on a suspension bridge, Lots of sun on a big bay like waterway.  You get to wander around the enormous kitchens and see some of the riches especially fine tile work.  While I was there another guy started talking to me about carpets.  He informed me if I wasn't prepared to spend a thousand bucks I might as well not bother.