Helsinki

Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral, Helsinki
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We pass the island of Suomenlinna as we sail into Helsinki. I had really wanted to visit it as it is a world heritage site, but we can’t do it with just half a day to play with.

Helsinki is a spectacular city floating in the sea. Its architecture is neo classical and built to impress. However we don’t head for it straight away. We take time to wander around the market on the quayside. It caters for both tourists and locals. The first items we see are beautiful fur hats and stoles, but these are no fakes! I can understand why people in these frozen countries might want them, but I certainly don’t. In fact as we look around most of the souvenirs seem to be animal based. There are woollen hats, scarves and mits all in typical Scandinavian designs and a plethora of reindeer based goods. Leather wallets and belts, nick knacks made from antlers and even reindeer burgers! You can eat really well here, particularly if you like fish. Mind you I’m not sure Paella is really an authentic smorgasbord delicacy.

I’m not sure Paella is really an authentic smorgasbord delicacy

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At least half of the stalls consist of fruit and vegetables, but not like the meagre offerings you get in England. Soft fruits like, cherries, strawberries (polka), red, black and white currants and raspberries (red and white) are all available. Whist great piles of chanterelle mushrooms and yellow courgettes are piled high as well.

From the market we head up towards the imposing Lutheran cathedral, sitting high on a cascade of steep granite steps. In the square below the authorities have laid on an impressive welcome for us and, for the second time in two days, we get a full military welcome. The main difference from yesterday is the baking hot sunshine. These soldiers look like US marines, with white helmets and gaiters. They also have more serious guns, these guys don’t look like amateurs!

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Inside the cathedral I find it a bit disappointing. There is little decoration and it is mainly white and uncluttered. It is certainly stylish, but too impersonal for my liking. We wander through the streets looking for the railway station but end up taking a detour into a 1 euro shop! The only thing that took our fancy was a set of square cups and saucers, but we successfully resist the temptation. Our main reason for finding the station is to admire its art deco design. It is a spectacular building with four huge figures, either side of the main entrance, each holding globe shaped lanterns. Inside is perfectly in keeping with the exterior, but it’s not as impressive as the outside.

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We take a look at a nearby map, trying to work out if it’s practical for us to get to the rock church, but decide it’s too hot to walk that kind of distance. Instead we make for the cool of the promenade where we find a cold drink and watch two trained cats performing tricks. Across the road we perch on the edge of a fountain which stands beside the market place. It consists of four seals spouting water from their mouths. Of course, being so close to the market again, we have to take a second look. We wander around buying bits and bobs and I find myself with a rather attractive handmade reindeer bowl (decorated with reindeer, rather than made from them).

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On the far side of the market we climb up the small mound to the Russian Orthodox Cathedral. Finland has evidently been having a heat wave as the grass is all dead and even some of the trees. We feel particularly sorry for the guests at a wedding, not in the Cathedral, but in the glass conservatory below. It must be absolutely baking and they are all desperately fanning themselves with their orders of service.

The Orthodox Cathedral is the exact opposite of the Lutheran one. It is totally over the top and crammed with religious artefacts and idols. You simply don’t know where to look first. The other big difference is that there are no pews. In Orthodox churches the congregation take a “no pain, no gain” approach. In fact standing is considered soft by some who prefer to kneel throughout the service. We are standing outside admiring the view when I suddenly remember my newly acquired bowl, which is still sitting inside where I left it.

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Finally we return to the market looking for a quick bite to eat before catching the bus back to the ship. We end up getting a basket of fried whitebait to share. It’s simply divine! I’ve never had such wonderfully fresh fish before. Included in the price (5 euros) we get some fish shaped brown bread and bottles of water.