Vientiane - a city of impressive temples and stupas.

"Patuxai", Vientiane's "Door of triumph"
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Introduction to Vientiane – the Capital of Laos

Tuesday 30th October 2007

The Golden Stupa - it's golden central spire and surrounding spires sore into the sky commanding attention from every direction.

Laos is one of those enlightened countries that don’t require a visa to be issued before arrival in the country. It has a copy of its visa application form on its web-site.  This can be filled in and printed so you can arrive with the form already filled in, one of those awful visa photos attached, and all ready for presentation on arrival instead of lining up with everybody else and waiting, waiting, waiting.  A speedy transition through Immigration and Customs had me in the Arrivals Hall by 9.45 am.  My good friends Jim and Chanla were waiting for me and very soon I was arriving at their family house.

View of Vientiane from the top of the Patuxai"
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 We sat around talking until lunchtime after which we visited a bank which made me an instant millionaire!  The largest amount you can withdraw at one time is 1 million Kip - about AUD120. So, in Lao terms, I am a multi-millionaire!

Next we visited a large edifice, the Patuxai, or Door of Triumph, which, if the story is correct, was built in the 1960s out of US aid cement that was meant to be used for a runway at the airport.  Some even irreverently refer to it as the "vertical runway"! I like it!  This triumphant arch, reminiscent of the Paris "Arc de Triomphe", was built after World War II but before the Communist takeover of Lao. It commemorates Lao soldiers who died in various wars. It is many stories high and, from the top, it affords a good view over the city with the mighty Mekong River in the distance.  The surrounding field has been turned into a popular park.

Dragons decorate Wat Hosantinimit -the new temple
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Nearby, we enjoyed exploring the area around a modern new temple, "Hosantinimit". Construction for this temple began in May 1995 and although it doesn't exude history it is impressive in its design and decoration. I was getting somewhat weary by this time so we climbed into a jumbo ‘tuk tuk’ for the ride home. And there, a pick-up was parked outside the door with a new mattress waiting to be unloaded.  It had been bought for me to use! It was hauled straight up the outside of the house and in through a first floor window with no consideration given at all for the power lines it bumped into on the way up.

The golden spire of 'Pha That Luang Stupa'
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The generosity of the Lao people, and in particular the family I am staying with, is boundless. They have ensured that I get good sleep with this lovely, firm mattress in its nice new mattress cover all encased in an icing pink mosquito net that’s big enough to cover a king-size bed.  This affords plenty of space around the mattress with more than enough room to sit up without touching either the sides or top.  There aren’t many mozzies that I have seen, but as one is enough to keep me awake, the net is much appreciated. But, although I was very weary, it was not yet time to try the bed out.

The sun begins to set behind the Stupa's main gate
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Late in the day, we travelled about 5 kms from the city to an interesting complex made up of a number of Buddhist temples and stupas dominated by the great stupa, Pha That Luang. This is more commonly known as the Golden Stupa for obvious reasons - it's golden central spire and surrounding spires sore into the sky commanding attention from every direction. It's proper name means "World-Precious Sacred Stupa" and its image is seen on many Laotian official documents and on the country's seal. It is the most important National Monument in all of Laos and is seen as a symbol of both their Buddhist religion and the sovereignty of their nation, Laos.

The main building is surrounded by smaller stupas
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This stupa is built on the site of a former Khmer monastery and was begun in 1566. By 1641, when the Lan Xang Kingdom was at its peak, it was said that the stupa was covered in gold leaf weighing about 450 kilos. Later, in the 18th Century, the building was repeatedly damaged by the Burmese and Siamese armies and eventually ransacked and left as a ruin. In 1900, the French tried to restore it but they didn't do a good job and even changed its orientation to face down the wide main boulevarde. It was not until 1931 that a group from a French University dismantled the stupa and rebuilt it according the Lao lotus bud shape and oriented towards the east according to traditional Buddhist doctrine.

Lose up of the "Patuxai" arch.
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After looking around the Stupa and nearby temples, we stayed on until the sun set, its last rays making the gold on the roof change colours. It was just beautiful.  At sunset a gong rang a couple of times and about twenty saffron robed monks of all ages began assembling at what must have been the main temple for prayers.  Before praying, careful attention was paid to the folding and wearing of their robes.  A tuck here, a fold there, wrap around this way, a crossover there, and all was complete.  They knelt down and began chanting a haunting mantra - a beautifully serene scene and experience. 

Roof detail on Wat Hosantinimit
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We wandered back home to a sumptuous dinner.  Soup, fried fish, noodles, boiled fish, fried crickets with Tahitian lime leaves, all eaten with that great Lao tradition, sticky rice.  What a feast!  

I should explain that when I say ‘we’, I mean around 19 people ranging from 3 years of age to ‘quite grown up adults’. Most of these are relatives of Chanla’s, our neighbour in Australia. We had all descended on Vientiane for her family reunion. I was lucky enough to be invited to join them for the experience. On at least one occasion there were 13 of us in the back of one pick-up, with others, of course, inside. We also needed a second vehicle - a people mover of Korean origin.

Roof of Wat Hosantinimit
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After dinner it was decided we should return to the triumphal arch to witness a sound and light show which includes the surrounding fountains. This takes place each night at around 7.30pm.

At the arch there were people selling balloons, many of which were bought for the kids in our group. Another guy had a mobile kitchen cart on which he made roti.  These delicious treats were made from small balls of a type of dough which resided under a damp cloth. One at a time, the balls were extricated, flattened a bit and then slapped and flung in a circular fashion onto a shallow concave wok-like cooking plate.  Then they were folded into a square from the somewhat round shape before being turned over a couple of times, butter being added as required.  Once cooked, condensed milk was drizzled over them, before they were folded in half, wrapped in a piece of grease-proof paper and handed to the purchaser.  Just delicious!  Somewhere or other I seem to remember enjoying an ice-cream or two as well.  I have to say I’m being looked after very well!!! Really, how lucky can you be! These folk are just so friendly and hospitable. I’m a bit overwhelmed.

Entrance to Wat Hosantinimit
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Before heading home, we visited a night market to buy some food and goodies for an adventure into the countryside that was planned for the following day. Produce procured, we all piled back into, or onto, our vehicles for the short, ten-minute drive back home where a magnificent hot sweet mug of coffee was served. Then, at last, it was time for me to see just how good that mattress really was.