O you'll take the high road and I'll take the low road

Edinburgh skyline.
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The 2-hour ride into Edinburgh was like living through all four seasons of the year without even leaving the train. At one stage, the snow was so thick that for about 10 minutes all we could see was white. Then it suddenly became sunny and green, the landscape dotted with sheep and cattle happily grazing.

I had read and seen many classics set in the countrysides of England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales before this trip. I had read Huw Morgan ask us 'how green was my valley then?', and I had watched as Sean Thornton and Mary Kate Danaher cycled around the green hills of Innisfree. But it was not until this very train trip, and the following 3 days I was to spend in Scotland, that I was to truly understand the romance of the area, and just why it had provided the background for so many of the great novels. (It was also the first time I learnt what heather and bracken are).

An enthralling history of blood and gore, muskets and mortars.

Edinburgh Castle.
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The first thing I noticed when I got off the train was the Castle. Situated high up in the centre of town and overlooking the entire city, it is pretty hard to miss. Edinburgh Castle was built in the 6th century, and sits on top of an extinct volcano. Today the oldest surviving building dates back to the 12th century, although its age has not in any way diminished its powerful presence.

The Castle is at the top of the Royal Mile, the ancient street that serves as a continual reminder of Edinburgh's medieval history. It is well worth the entry-fee, and it will take a couple of hours to see everything. The Castle commands incredible views of the city, right out to the mountains on one side and the harbour on the other. Inside, there are many buildings to explore. The Royal Palace, which remains in use for private functions, was where Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to her son, James VI. The Castle is also now the home to the National War Museum of Scotland, as well as the individual museums of the Royal Dragoon Guards and the Royal Scots Regiment. The Castle also houses the 'Honours of Scotland'. These were the crown and sceptre used in the coronations of Scottish kings. They were only rediscovered in 1818 after hundreds of years spent hidden away from the English during the wars of independence.

Arthur's Seat.
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The Castle also proudly displays The Stone of Destiny. Since the year 838, it was used as a coronation throne upon which all kings of Scotland were crowned. The stone was stolen by King Edward I in 1296, and remained in England until 1996 when it was returned to the people of Scotland in a show of good faith. There is a theory, and quite a popular one in Scotland, that Edward I stole a fake - that for 800 years the English have coveted a mere lump of rock. Legend has it that the real stone was removed just days before Edward's invasion, and that its whereabouts, known only by the Knights Templar, will be revealed when Scotland regains its independence. A very interesting story (and a possible sequal to The Da Vinci Code?).

Castle.
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There are many more things to see on the walk along the Royal Mile. Right at the other end of the Mile is the Scottish Parliament, and the Palace of Holyrood House. This is the Queen's official residence in Scotland, and was built in the 16th century. Across from the Palace is Holyrood Park, where it is possible to climb the extinct volcano which forms Arthur's Seat. The spectacular views of the surrounding district make the hour-long climb well worth the effort, just make sure you are wearing sensible shoes (trust me...I learnt this the hard way). Carlton Hill is also worth a visit. Here you will find a number of memorials, including the Nelson Monument, and the National Monument of Scotland. It was very much inspired by the Parthenon of Greece, and led to Edinburgh getting the nickname 'the Athens of the north'.

Sir Walter Scott Monument.
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If you are after a quirky way to conclude your day in Edinburgh, definately go on a nightime ghost tour. When the New Town was built in the 18th and 19th centuries, the Old Town degenerated into a notorious slum. Underground vaults that were once used for storage became a haven for the poor and criminals on the run from the police. Later on, these were the first people to fall victim to the plague that took hold of the entire city. These vaults, dark, cold and wet, have been declared a hive for paranormal activity. Even though I did not have a ghostly encounter, learning about the many attacks that have been reported had me sufficiently petrified. It was a terrific way to end the night.

Memorial of Ensign Ewart, Scottish hero from the Battle of Waterloo.
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Edinburgh is a magical mix of old and new. Its history, one of blood and gore, mortars and muskets, is absolutely enthralling. You cannot walk 100 metres without coming across another statue or monument. Yet it is also breathtakingly beautiful. It is an enormous city but, no matter where you are, you always feel as though the green fields and mountains, with its heather and bracken, are never far away.