Muara Angke Wildlife Reserve

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Jakarta is a sprawling and crowded city home to an approximate 12 million people.The city is, unfortunately, famous for its smog.I’ve been here for just over a day and I’m already noticing the heaviness in the air, and in my lungs.In an online version of the Jakarta Post, I read that 75% of the city’s pollution is due to motor vehicles, which is easy to comprehend as cars and minivans seem to dominate the roads.Just walking down the street, you can get a sense of the chaotic lives of urban residents who must cope with this continual noise, traffic, and fumes that come with city living in Jakarta.Yet, there are still some places that offer a retreat.

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On Saturday morning I wake up early and catch a taxi to the Muara Angke Wildlife Reserve to meet with members of the Jakarta Green Monsters.The wildlife reserve is located in the Northwestern part of the city only 15km from the airport.Plowing through the traffic, the taxi passes large scale housing developments and new modern looking businesses before finally reaching the park.Though you can still hear the traffic from the main road, it seems to lower in volume upon entering.A park guide shows me to where Edy and Riri are already waiting at a bird hide.These two, with binoculars loosely draped around their necks, are enthusiastic bird watchers and committed members of the Green Monsters.

Can you believe this is Jakarta?!?
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Over sweet tea and fried bananas at the forestry station, they tell me about the reserve and their work to preserve the park.This area is home to Jakarta’s last mangrove forest.Originally 2000 hectares along the Jakarta Bay, the reserve has been reduced to only 25 hectares, but still accommodates over 90 types of birds and other wildlife like monkeys, monitor lizards, and snakes.The spidery arms of the mangrove trees, ideal for preventing erosion and controlling flood tides, also act as a net for the city’s garbage before it can be swept out to sea.The JGM group works valiantly to limit the damage caused by pollution and helps preserve what remains of the park.In such a big crowded city, the park still feels like an oasis and offers a quick getaway to those wanting to see a different side of Jakarta.

Worried for the marsh and its wildlife, JGM formed in 2006 to clean up the reserve and generate awareness and social concern for the wetlands.Besides continual cleaning efforts organized every 3-4 months, the group’s first main project was replacing the boardwalks winding through the park.The new strong walkways include a bird viewing hide, and provide excellent observation spots for visitors to the park. The group hopes that by generating awareness about the importance of coastal wetlands, and the value of green spaces, they can show visitors how the environment plays a key role in the overall health of a city.In addition, educating school children through visits to their classrooms, and by conducting special organized viewings of the park, the group works to teach kids about the significance of water quality and proper waste disposal.

Getting up, Edy, Riri, and I bypass some lively monkeys near the front of the park, and take a stroll on the path that extends around 900m into the park’s center.They let me borrow the binoculars and I see a Fantail, and numerous other birds I can’t even begin to identify.We also see a baby monitor lizard scrambling over the wooden board walk then disappearing back into the marsh.Around the reserve’s perimeter I can still see houses and buildings, occasionally a plane overhead, but in the park it’s easy to get lost in its sense of place while staring off at an immovable looking twisted mangrove tree, or waiting patiently for the next creature to make itself known.

Like most environmental areas, there is a looming threat on the horizon.This particular area faces danger from the effects of Jakarta Bay’s North Coast reclamation project.The scheme entails developing Jakarta’s Northern area into a waterfront business district.A large amount of people will lose their homes, and the project threatens to disrupt wildlife habitats. It’s even expected to affect the water flows of the tides.Regrettably, when people are not aware of the importance of their natural environment, and do not exert social pressure to maintain a balance between development, social welfare, and environmental protection, it’s much easier for a place’s natural assets to be lost.

The Muara Angke Wildlife Reserve may be small, but it’s important and definitely worth a visit, especially for those needing a break from the bustle of the rest of the city.To reach the park, locally called “Cagar Alam,” it’s easiest to take a bus to the Kota area and then it’s a $2-3 taxi ride to the park along the airport road, Pantai Indah Kapuk exit.One thing to note, before visiting the park one is supposed to obtain a permit from the forestry office, which can take up to 5 hours.However, if you are an avid naturalist, contact the members of JGM by email at info@jakartagreenmonster.com, and they can help get things sorted and provide well guided tours of the reserve.Visitation to this park, which is recorded, helps the government realize the parks worth in public eyes and might help detour future encroachment into the reserve.