At last - the Caprivi Strip

Caprivi is often cut off on road maps and attached as an addendum, almost as a left-over from the rest of the country. Many people have visited Sossusvlei, Etosha and Swakopmund, but few have ventured as far as the Caprivi. Perhaps the distance plays a role or the colourful history of war before Angola. With the cost of visiting the Okavango Swamps being out of the price range for the average South African traveller, Caprivi seemed to be a more affordable option.

Flying from Windhoek across Botswana in our 19-seater plane the landscape changed from arid reddish-beige to dark green as storm clouds built up. There are no signs of people, buildings or animals in this vast expanse – something rare on our planet.

Caprivi Strip – Namibia’s best kept secret, until now.

The take-off from Windhoek had been bumpy, the pilot telling me later that it was because of the hills that surround the city.

Katima Mulilo is the capital and is in the eastern part of Caprivi, 1 300km from Windhoek and Pretoria.

We were met by Katy Sharpe of Tutwa Tourism & Travel who was to be out guide for the next four days. It was Katy who was instrumental in making our trip a success. Her passion for the area, its nature and people was clear, as was her knowledge of birds, animals and vegetation. Katy was born in Zimbabwe but has been a resident in the Caprivi since 1993.

We had a 494km journey along the B8 Trans-Caprivi Highway, lined with trees, villages, giant anthills and signs warning of elephants. But other hazards include cattle, goats and people. “The rains started one month ago,” said Katy, “and it’s unlikely that you’ll see elephants now.”

We passed through the West Caprivi Game Park, which will one day be renamed Bwabawata National Park. The tyres of the vehicle were sprayed as prevention for foot and mouth. This stretch of road is more densely vegetated riverine woodland.

The bridge that crosses the Kavango River marks the boundary of the Caprivi Game Park and from here it was a short distance to Divundu.

DIVAVA LODGE & SPA is buried in a wooded setting on the banks of the Kavango River at the western end of the Caprivi, just south of Divundu. There are 20 luxurious chalets with views, a deck and outdoor shower overlooking the river (there’s also an indoor shower).

Most of the staff are from the surrounding villages and have been trained by Leading Lodges. “It’s quite a challenge,” said general manager Detlev Hövelmann. “Many of them have never heard of cappuccinos let alone seen a coffee machine.”

While enjoying supper on the hotel’s deck we spotted a Wood Owl in one of the overhanging trees.

The following morning we were taken along the river by boat to see Popa Falls, actually rapids and not the waterfall that the name conjures. The name comes from the local word for water running fast and making the rocks knock together.

Afterwards, Detlev showed us the treatment rooms, designed to look similar to the huts of the local people. These huts include a Swedish dry sauna, steam room, hydro bath and change rooms, all overlooking the river.

After saying our goodbye’s Katy drove us to the nearby Mahango Game Reserve. The park consists of savannah woodland, riverine forest and is the start of the floodplain delta. The entrance is shaded by Bastermopane, Guibourtia coleosperma, where we watched a Red-headed weaver busily building a nest. This was the beginning of our birdwatching enthusiasm, particularly helped by Katy and her magnificent Austrian Swarovski ELIOx42 binoculars. We saw a Lilac-breasted roller, Coppery-tailed coucal, Crimson-breasted shrikes, Marabou storks, Pin-tailed whydah, Wattled crane (endangered) and Woodland kingfishers. Apart from many Impala, including a dainty five-day old, it was the birds and plants that were more interesting than seeing animals. We saw a field of pink Nerine laticoma, blood red Scadoxus multiflorus and Ledebouria undulata.

We drove as far as a 500-year-old Baobab, Adansonia digitata, which was in bloom. Time was running short so we then returned to the gate and a 2-hour onward journey.

LIANSHULU LODGE is situated in Mudumu National Park and is surrounded by an electrified fence. “We had a rogue elephant at one time,” said the welcoming manager, William Smit. “He was clever and knew the fence was electrified but not the fence poles so he’d knock them down. He would also enter the grounds from the river.”

Before we could go to our rooms manager Ronnie Masikili told us that meal-times are announced by drum-beats. He also said that we should not wonder around at night because of hyenas, elephants and lion’s - all this said with a straight face! “You will be escorted to the dining deck,” he said.

He then told us about the foghorn. “It’s next to your bed and if you have a problem during the night, use it.” That night, in bed, I woke and wandered what an emergency meant. A snake falling from the beams of the thatched roof onto the mosquito net. Or maybe a hippo crashing through the sliding door into the bedroom. And had the foghorn ever been used? I asked next day and it appears that it hasn’t.

After settling into our free-standing, luxury accommodation we were taken on a game-viewing trip on the Kwando River. The source is in Angola where it flows into the Linyanti swamps before making its way to Chobe, which are extension of the Zambezi and Kwando Rivers respectively.

We saw African jacana birds, lily jumpers - as the name suggests jumping on the beautiful large mauve and white lilies decorating all of the rivers. Animal life consisted of a few hippo and crocs and many Chacma baboons, larger than our Tokai population.

At last we relaxed after our hectic schedule and being on the go all the time. Floating along the river with good company sipping chilled Nederburg wine and munching on samoosas, life doesn’t get better than this.

We half-jokingly asked William to show us elephants. Rounding a bend of the river we couldn’t believe our eyes – 40 of them came from the bush, slowly, all different sizes, some wary while others brazenly walked to the river to drink. It was amazing and fascinating to watch their interplay until one of them lost patience with us and looked as if he would charge the boat.

At night, before supper, we were introduced to Nandi, a huge croc who visits the lodge and has a penchant for muffins. Thankfully she could not climb onto the bank, either because of too many muffins or being pregnant. “She has a boyfriend downriver called Brutus,” said William.

On Saturday we were taken on a drive through the game park. We were supposed to make a stop at Lizauli Traditional Village but it was closed. “Everyone has gone to church. Most people are Seventh Day Adventist’s” said our guide. “Even though the people dress in western clothes the traditions are still strong,” he said. “They consult the witchdoctors and there’s also a problem with them having to go to funerals because so many people dying of AIDS.”

He went on to say that 50 or 60 years ago the area had the same wildlife as Botswana and that the animals are slowly returning.

To the east of the Kwando River there’s sandveld vegetation while to the west there is seasonal marshland, “very much like the Okavango,” he said.

We were told about conservancies, based on Zimbabwe’s Campfire initiative, where local people benefit from controlled trophy hunting and a percentage from the lodges goes back into the community. “It’s proof that conservation and community can mix.” Conservancies are established within the Caprivi region to integrate traditional livelihoods with conservation and tourism.

The local people also make a living collecting reeds and grasses for thatching with the aid of lodges.

It was time to leave on another two-hour drive. Katy took us on a short detour towards the Mamili on dirt roads which added a wilderness feel and a sense of adventure, reminiscent of wild Africa.

It is no longer referred to as Mamili National Park, well, not according to the locals anyway. It seems that chief Mamili, the park’s namesake, was part of a failed Caprivi succession attempt. He is currently exiled in Denmark. Unofficially, the locals have changed all the signage in the immediate area to: Nkasa/Rupara National Park. It sits in the furthest most southern tip of the Caprivi Strip and borders Botswana. It is a swampland with copses of large trees.

Mamili is on an island and there are only two ways to get there, either on a precarious metal bridge or a wooden bridge. We passed through a traditional village located at Sangwali and a short distance further arrived at the rickety home-made wooden bridge. Here we met Joubert Sipho why charges N$40 to cross into the park.

KALIZO LODGE is 40km from Katima Mulilo, on the banks of the 2 736km-long stretch of water starting in the floodplains of Angola and ending in the Indian Ocean. But this 150km-long stretch of the Zambezi is navigable and on the eastern Caprivi.

Kalizo Lodge is usually closed for three months of the year when it is shut off because sections are underwater. “There’s nowhere else where you can sit on the lou and catch fish,” said host Val Sparg. The lodge is popular with birders and fishermen with the record for a Tiger fish at Kalizo being 10kg.

The sky had become darker and darker, with a few flashes of lightning and rumbles of thunder, but we were keen to go on a boat ride on the Zambezi. We joined abut 10 British volunteer teachers who have come to the Caprivi to try and improve education and teaching techniques. We had hardly left shore when our host Dan cracked open the cool box and offered G&T’s, beer and cool drinks while his son Robert steered.

“At 7.2m it was the highest rainfall we’ve had in recorded history,” said Dan of last years’ rains. With 6 000 cubic metres per second the river was 30km wide and could fill all of Namibia’s dams, according to Dan. And yes, the mighty Zambezi is far wider than the other river’s we had travelled, less intimate, but not as forbidding as Dan made it out to be.

It happens every year on August 22 when what is surely the most beautiful bird in Africa arrives in eastern Caprivi. And we were lucky to be there to watch their hyperactive feeding behaviour.

As we floated along we saw the endangered African skimmers. Unfortunately locals harvest their eggs from the sandbanks. But it was the colony of Carmine bee-eaters that we had come to see, reputed to be the best in Africa. “They arrive on 22 August,” said Dan, “not a day before and not a day later.” These hyperactive birds normally build their nests 1½-metre deep in the banks of the river. But there is not enough space for them so many have built nests on the flat ground above the bank. Carmines are predominantly pinkish-red and have a turquoise underbody which extends to the lower back and crown with a black eye mask and beak. Adult Carmine’s have a long, forked tail while juveniles don’t.

As we approached their calls became louder, almost like seagulls. There must have been 500 of them. Many roosted in trees, probably exhausted from carrying enormous bugs in their beaks. One juvenile sat on a branch with an enormous grub in his beak contemplating what to do with it. They apparently leave mid-December. “They travel for miles in search of food,” said Dan the following day as he drove us to see the bee-eaters and then show us some of forest and river birds. We drove past small pans, locally called malapa, where we saw Pied kingfishers and many Open-billed storks – birds with bills strong enough to crack a garden snail. In the forest areas we saw four different coucals – white, black browed, Senegal and coppery-tailed.

Back at camp we went in search of the two resident pairs of Shelley’s sunbirds, rare south of Victoria Falls. Instead we saw a bird with a tiny nest and a very long tail.

NTWALA ISLAND LODGE and the idiosyncrasies of border crossings.

This had to be the strangest day of our trip, not only for me but for the others too. It started with another two-hour drive when Val took us on the transit road through Chobe, Botswana, necessitating two border crossings, as well as passing through police check-points where the tyres were sprayed. She dropped us in the compact, clean town of Kasane. This is the place where four countries meet – Zimbabwe, Caprivi (Namibia), Zambia and Botswana. I’m sure I must have travelled through here 25-odd years ago on my trip from London to Johannesburg, but it didn’t look familiar.

It would have been wonderful to wander through the town, enjoy a coffee, talk to the locals and take pictures, but there wasn’t time. Our guide and boat-pilot was waiting to take us to the lodge.

Boarding the small craft it was thrilling to speed through the water. Our pilot told us that it would be a 30-minute trip on the river but, 10-minutes later, our boat pulled up on a riverbank. It was a picturesque place with rapids running over black rocks adorned with cattle egrets.

“You follow this path and have your passports stamped,” said our pilot, vaguely pointing in a direction-going-nowhere.

Now, if I was on my own I would have been suspicious that this was a scam and my backpack would disappear, along with the boat. But, I was on a sponsored trip and with two other writers’ and a Namibia Tourism employee, surely this was above board. As you may see, border crossings are not my favourite. I’m reading Around Africa on my Bicycle by Riaan Manser and he brought home to me the problems that I almost always seem to encounter at the border crossings in the countries that I visit. Ah, the traveller’s laments of living in a world where we have to go through borders and have visas.

It was hot but we walked the rocky road before seeing a building and sure enough, it was the Namibia/Botswana border post. Strange!

Having had our passports stamped, for the fourth time that day, we returned to the boat (thankfully it was still there) and set off again along the river. It was an enjoyable ride, passing carpets of lilies, the odd croc or two, cattle egrets lining the bank like sentinels, papyrus and reeds overhanging the river complete with weaver nests. Overhead flocks of Open-billed storks adorned a storm-filled sky mirrored in the still water of the river.

At last we turned off into a channel, just before rapids and only 70km from Victoria Falls - our resting place for the night, Ntwala Island.

Ntwala Lodge is on an island and an amazing place knowing that almost everything was brought in by water. And what luxury! Only four, ultra luxurious, double bungalows, complete with enormous bathroom, outdoor shower overlooking the river with own pool and swing chairs. It’s the sort of place to come with the one you love, a honeymoon or special anniversary. The following morning I spent a few hours doing some work and bridwatching on one of the swing chairs – our only leisure time on the trip.

Not much time to settle in and have lunch before being taken downriver on a game-watching trip. A Goliath heron took off from the bank looking like a small aircraft, startled crocs splashing into the river, Yellow-billed storks and grunting hippos. Sipping South African wine life doesn’t get much better than this, but it did.

We approached Kasikele Island, land under dispute by Botswana and Nambia. Surely a joke, when the river is high it must disappear and anyway, there’s nothing on it except for a few buck. But no, the issue of ownership eventually came before The Hague and was granted to Botswana – yeah! Surely to form part of Chobe National Park? And now, just to prove their point, the Botswana flag flies on the island.

It’s interesting that in this part of the world the Egyptian geese are known as Chobe Chicken. Back home I refer to them as South African geese because I’ve seen more of them at home than I did while in Egypt. We also saw a Pygmy crocodile, far more colourful than its cousin the Nile crocodile; she was sitting on eggs on the bank of Kasikele Island.

But a storm was brewing and the wind came up so it was time to go ‘home’. On the way we rescued a makora, its owners lining the bank and fishing. We also had to don raingear. There were two fires blazing and it went through my mind that smoker Gina, who had stayed behind to enjoy the luxuries of the lodge, had perhaps set the place on fire – only joking!

As we sped back we seemed to pass under a rainbow with the fires at either end - a magical, memorable moment. The sunset was breathtaking but brief as the sky transformed to crimson as the sun descended into the Zambezi.

After a delicious breakfast on the deck we once again passed through the four border posts, this time being met by Katy in Kasane. A quick stop in Katima Mulilo and we were boarding the plane for our return journey to Namibia.

* The Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA TFCA)

The Caprivi Region is the geographical heart of the KAZA TFCA which encompasses parts of the Okavango and Zambezi River basin regions of five countries – Namibia, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Angola. Key trans-boundary organisations facilitating the development of the KAZA TFCA include the Peace Parks Foundation and Conservation International.

The beauty of the north-eastern tip of Namibia is that it remains virtually unfenced for an area of approximately 14 467km2. Furthermore, Namibia is bordered by a further 10 500km2 Chobe National Park in Botswana and endless areas into Angola and Zambia, enabling animals to roam freely where their hearts and bellies take them; where cattle graze side by side with elephant, zebra and antelope.

The aim of KAZA TFCA is to promote the area as a major tourism destination based on a network of protected areas and wildlife populations. The KAZA TFCA is home to the largest concentration of elephants in Africa.

Within the context of sustainable development, the KAZA TFCA encourages both the private sector and community based tourism.

* Community Based Tourism in Caprivi

Since 1990, Namibia’s world renowned Community Based Natural Resource Management (CBNRM) programme has grown into a significant national rural development movement. This programme aims to return communal area residents’ ownership and control over resources, as well as rights to receive benefits as an incentive for conservation.

If you go:

The Caprivi is attracting more and more visitors to the region and as the numbers of tourists grow so does the need for information. You could comfortably spend two to three weeks exploring the area.

The Caprivi Strip has a population of 100 000 in an area 200km by 35km, 832 000km2 of which 45% of them are HIV-positive. Caprivi is flat with an elevation between 900-1 100m above sea level. The climate is tropical with an average rainfall of between 550mm and 700mm per year with most rain falling in January and February. The hottest months are September, October and November. Agriculture is the most important livelihood activity in the Caprivi and there is a strong reliance on the use of natural resources such as wood for fuel and building, grass for thatching, veld foods which include waterlily bulbs and of course fish.

Best time: High season is between July and October, low season is December to March when bird filled pans are fringed by water lilies and inhabited by hippos. February to April is a bad time for mosquitoes and the threat of Malaria. In September there is a cultural festival when the chief dresses up and goes through Katima Mulilo.

Best time for fishing: There are 150 species of fish in the area. August to October are the best times, when you can catch tiger, bream and carp. Tigerfish are renowned for their fighting ability and spectacular aerial acrobatics when hooked. The rivers also hold other species of bream (ciclids), to test the angler’s skills including nembwe, humpback and thinface largemouth bream, three-spot bream, redbreast bream and pink as well as green bream.

Best time for birdwatching is from September to April with varied habitats, including broad-leafed and acacia woodlands, mopane forests, riverine forests, grasslands and floodplains. Caprivi boasts 430 species in its three national parks and adjacent parks.

Vegetation: Up to a third of the Caprivi is flooplain. The Kalahari sands support teak, kiaat, mangetti and false mopane, camel thorns, leadwood and knob-thorns grow in light clay soil while mopane trees are characteristic of heavy clay soils. Wetland areas are dominated by grasslands and reeds.

Flights: Windhoek to Katima approximately R4 000, from Livingstone to Katima approximately R2 500. The transfer on the three-hour drive from Livingstone to Kutimo is around R970.

Local guide, bird enthusiast and transfer, Katy Sharpe of Tutwa Tourism & Travel, email sharpe@iafrica.com.na or tutwa@mweb.com.na, tel +264 66 252739, cell +264 811246696 or visit www.tutwa.com.na

Accommodation:

Divava Lodge & Spa rates are N$2 000 for a double room and full board, N$1 500 for a double room and breakfast, N$350 game drive, N$200 boat cruise. SADC residents year end special from December 15 to February 29, B&B N$637.50 per person sharing, normal rate N$1 275 per person sharing. Visit www.divava.com, email divava@leadinglodges.com, tel +264 (0) 61 375 3000.

Lianshulu Lodges rates are DBB varies from N$1 299 low season to N$1 647 peak season July to October, per person sharing. Visit www.lianshulu.com, email info@lianshulu.com or call +264 61 254317.

Kalizo Lodge is situated on the upper Zambezi river and offers more affordable accommodation, DBB plus self-catering units and camping. It is well-known for its fishing and birdwatching. Kalizo hires out fishing boats with experienced river guides, fishing tackle and an assortment of artificial lures and flies. Visit www.kalizilodge.com, email kalizo@mightly.co.za or call +264 6668 6802/3

More basic accommodation, try Ngepi Lodge, Divundu, which was voted Camp of the Year, Getaway Magazine. Situated on an island, Ngepi has tree en suite houses overlooking the river and a bush pub. Visit www.ngepicamp.com, email bookings@ngepicamp.com or call +264 (0) 66 259 903.

Another gem of camping is Nambwa in western Caprivi, only accessible by 4x4. the 5km drive to this pristine location with its abundance of fauna, the landscape and vegetation all add to make this place one of the best community campsites in the country. Tel +264 66 252108, email nacobta@ifrica.com.na or visit www.nacobta.com.na

Self-catering houseboats are ideal to navigate the interlinking web of streams and rivers or to experience a houseboat safari. Contact Francois and Chantel Haasbroek on +264 66 686 049, cell +264 81 206 2019 or email chs@iway.na

Ntwala Island Lodge ???????

AIRNAMIBIA SPECIAL includes:

*Return flights from Eros to Katima Mulilo on Air Namibia, taxes included;

*4 Nights accommodation at Divava Okavango Lodge and Spa, bed and breakfast;

*Return transfers form airport and lodge;

*Free massage;

N$5590.00 P/Person sharing

N$6700.00 single

Child rate on request

CONDITIONS:

Re-booking before departure @ N$300.00 per change.

Bookings should be made in G/M-class.

Package is subject to availability and change.

Valid until further notice

Group rates on request (more than 9 pax)

Not refundable after departure

Exclude meals and drinks not specified/travel insurance

Cancellation fee 0 – 7 days prior departure 100%

For any further information or to book please contact air Namibia Holidays at 2996165 or fax 2996154, email: holidays@airnamibia.com.na or your nearest travel agent.