Rajasthan - 'Land of Kings' - a hair-raising drive to Pushkar

A lone bull in Pushkar. Mean old sod.
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I faced death on the road today at least fifty times.

At points I found myself squeezing my legs together in terror as Suresh pushed down hard on the accelerator and weaved around an oncoming tractor or truck.. But today has been great - albeit very hot. We have left Delhi behind and entered the 'Land of Kings' - Rajasthan. From my car window I've watched camel carts and colourfully robed women. This is the way to see India. Not from train or plane but from ground level but I would recommend having nerves of steel.

and then the 48 miles to Ajmer and Suresh playing a nerveshredding game of dare with oncoming trucks. The road was only two lanes wide and Suresh always wanted to overtake. This went on for hour after hour and with me regretting sitting in the front and him chuckling at my discomfort.

On their way to the biryani
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So after an uncomfortable night at Palace Heights with the worlds worst airconditioner I was up and ready at about 8.00am. I looked over the balcony and there was Suresh Kumar cleaning his bright white van. Nazir turned up as well to make sure we got off OK. He is a genuine guy Nazir - well, as genuine as a Delhi travel tout can be? Then we were off out of the quiet Sunday morning streets of Connaught Place and out southwest to Rajasthan. The heat was a big problem and by 9.00am had built to furnace levels. I saw people cowering under makeshift sun breaks. Everyone is begging for the weather to break and the cooler monsoon to arrive.

The mischievious and just plain wicked Suresh Kumar
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There is no denying it - India is poor. The rural buildings we passed were scruffy and falling to pieces. People wash under waterpumps and many houses had tied up buffaloes outside. But the place fascinated me - even the boys in the dry fields herding long eared goats were interesting to me. But by mid-day we were well into the desert. The heat was so extreme that Suresh covered his head in a white clothe and had to pull over for something to eat and rest quite a few times. He is a good Hindu vegetarian and had a dhal while I stuck with chicken omelette. I' a wee bit worried about vegetarian India as a confirmed carnivore a diet of legumes doesn't fill me up as much as meat does.

About 3.00pm we took the road to Jaipur and my mouth dropped open at the great Amber Fort languously draping itself over nearby mountains. Suresh pointed out elephants waiting to take tourists up for 500 rupees a ride. As we weaved our way through the congested city of Jaipur he waved to the "Hawa Mahal". This pink confection was gorgeous but we through and out before I could get a special glimpse and then the 48 miles to Ajmer and Suresh playing a nerveshredding game of dare with oncoming trucks. The road was only two lanes wide and Suresh always wanted to overtake. This went on for hour after hour and with me regretting sitting in the front and him chuckling at my discomfort.

About 5.00pm we hit Ajmer and Suresh sped through beeping any lazy cows out of the way and then the switchback roads over the mountains. Then it was paying tourist tax to the holy town of Pushkar and the hotel Oasis. A lovely hotel decorated in blue and containing double bed, crisp airconditioning and Indian MTV. I can almost feel the gentle holy air of Pushkar and I sat with the owner young Kailash that evening watching Indian life pass by.

Camels sat in the sandy road outside, pilgrim vans bump their way into town, and bulls take on other bulls for the cows in grunting fights.

In the dusk light it was a whole show in itself. Things are looking up in Pushkar.