Florence

Tuesday, Feb. 27

After consultation with our hotel, we realize that this will be a day of travel to Florence and we will not have time to squeeze in a final stop I had hope to see in Venice: Santa Maria Gloriosa Del Frari. Next time!

We start a bit earlier than planned and are much more efficient at finding the Riato stop for the vaporetta to take us to the train station. All goes smoothly and easily. I love train travel. We board the express train believing we are bound straight to Florence. So, once on our way, we move our assigned seats to a window area. Luckily, our first stop brings an English speaking secondary school teacher to our side. She not only is wonderful, but with each proceeding stop negotiates with the oncoming passengers why they should just choose another seat other than the one assigned – since we have now messed up the entire seating arrangement. This chain reaction becomes humorous, and without her fine negotiation skills I think the entire train car would have had to stand up and move their seats if the final person was not willing to take the open one!

Our train 4-some also includes a 20 year old university student who is studying Modern Literature in Padova. We have a fascinating and delightful conversation with our teacher friend acting as translator for the university student (who does not understand English). We discuss American and Italian politics; not just Bush who both the teacher and student think is “mad” but they are also asking about “Mrs. Clinton” and the “young black man”. The rest of the world is looking to see what we do next. They spoke of the splintering of the political parties in Italy and what they believe is the growing influence of the Pope on certain splinters. They believe he is demanding more conformity from the Christian Democrats (Italy). Certainly, this small sampling does not want to return to the days of having the Pope heavily influence Italian politics.

Unfortunately, our teacher friend descends in Bologna, but before she leaves she writes down her name and phone number and tells us to call her the next time we return to Italy. We had discussed our frustration with not knowing the language and she encouraged us to begin learning and then return. She says she is constantly working on improving her English (which is great) and uses DVD’s such as Desperate Housewives or English cartoons for her son. She is also strongly encouraging the young university student to learn English. He had said he had learned Latin in his classical training in high school. Tom tried writing some Latin, but the teacher was more successful in translating than the student. Great fun.

Note: If you go to Italy, do not believe the guidebooks – learn some Italian! Unless you are going to be totally embedded in an American tour group. The average Italian is not necessary fluent in English. Many who work in the tourist industry may have a working knowledge of English necessary to transact their business, but not beyond that. If you want to be adventuresome and go off the tourist track, either get lucky like we did or know some Italian.

We arrive at the Florence train station, Santa Maria Novella. Our hotel, Hotel Laurus, is an easy walk from the station – and easy to find! Since we are not overly prepared, we stop at the Duomo which is almost right outside our door. We follow the crowds only to find at the end of the queue, we are in the line to climb 463 steps to the top of the Duomo. So . . . we take 2 steps left and pass up this “opportunity.” Another option, Giotto Tower (Duomo e Campanile di Giotto) with its 414 steps is also not something we are looking for! It would do us in for the day, or week. Are we getting old?? Yes. But our hotel has a lovely rooftop café which looks out over the Duomo. Excellent view. This hotel was a great recommendation by Leo Hallisey, an acquaintance from Tullycross.

Wed. Feb. 28

We have developed an agenda! We head toward the Ufizzi (Galleria degli Uffizi) believing we will need reservations. We walk straight in. The advantages of low season. Some of the disadvantages are shortened hours, some spots closed, more renovation (??), and audio guides may not be available). But the Ufizzi does give us an audio guide which is very helpful in one of the most impressive collections. We decide to proceed to the Pitti Palace (Palazzo Pitti) with its numerous museums. We begin with the Gardens (Giardino di Boboli). These are probably much more beautiful when in bloom although a brave flower emerges here and there. A great view of the city from the top. We then move on to the Palatine Gallery (Galleria Palatina). It reminds us of the Louvre many years ago when paintings where stacked 4 high and your neck hurt after viewing the first few rooms.

The royal apartments (Appartamenti Reali) are maybe what one might expect for royalty. I still can’t imagine the time and effort required to make these furnishings. I am dazzled by the inlaid tables – not of wood but of precious stones and marble such as lapis lazuli. I have not seen anything comparable. I understand wood inlay, but it would be far more difficult (I believe) with such hard substances as marble to make the intricate pieces with perfect matches.

We complete our part of the tour (other museums another time) with the Modern Art Museum (Galleria d’Arte Moderna). “Modern” barely begins the impressionist period and we had thought it might be like the MOMA in NYC. No Picasso’s here let alone anything remotely abstract!

Thursday, March 1

We are looking for a calm day. We pass the Accademia and head for San Marco Square (Chiesa e Convento di San Marco). We first visit the old Dominican convent (Museo di San Marco). Mary Alice had written us a wonderful poem (see special posting) regarding the Fra Angelica’s. She inspired us. It is the highlight of our trip – we all get to pick our favorites. Maybe it was so unexpected. There is a particular piece that Tom and I like that contain about 44 (??) different scenes from the life of Christ. Not only are they particularly vivid, but it is like a puzzle remembering each Biblical story. We appreciate our Catholic backgrounds that gave instant context to many of these scenes. As we see other nationalities (and probably religious affiliations), I wonder how they view such works that are primarily of Christ’s life. I realize I, too, would appreciate other religious artwork without necessarily understanding the meaning behind them. But it does add another dimension to see the art and know what the inspiration behind it might have been. We spent an unusual amount of time on this one piece of art. And then we were able to translate the Nicene (????) Creed – it’s amazing what comes back to you. We are finding Tom’s Latin invaluable. Not only with art but with the barriers of not knowing Italian. He can read menus, etc.

We go to the church, but it is closed so off to lunch in the square (Za Za’s)

Back to the church where we are soon greeted by the parish priest (??). No English is spoken, although he says to me “Viva America.” I smile and shrug a bit. I’m not feeling overwhelmingly patriotic, but certainly not forgetting I am a proud American. Tom comes over, and I ask the priest if he knows Latin. He responds with a gesture – a little. Through pieces of Italian, English, Latin, hand gestures and body language, we carry on a conversation and Italy and of course American politics. Seems like the rest of the world would like to understand what Americans are thinking. The priest animates shooting and indicates he believes Bush shoots too quickly and doesn’t talk enough. We had better begin being more part of this world community. It isn’t that we are standing against some evil that everyone else is afraid to take on (e.g., Darfur). Maybe that is what we thought we were going to do. But I read a review of what Brezinski just testified before the Senate and it is scary stuff on some of his scenarios if we get drawn into a greater conflict in Iran. Even he (I believe he began with the Bush Sr. administration) believes we will be without allies and it could spread to Pakistan. Politics. It’s everywhere. But isn’t it interesting that all age groups in both Ireland and Italy are shaking their heads and not able to comprehend what the USA is doing. I don’t understand it either. So maybe it needs to be explained better to all of us other than “I’m the decider.” Oops, my politics is showing.

Our next stop is the Galleria dell’Accademia where we once again walk straight in and buy a ticket with the “main attraction” being the David.

We wander the streets between the hotel and the River Arno – I even buy a pair of Italian shoes. Well, really just some light-weight type athletic shoes as my Gortex boots are too hot for Italy. But they do have a few pieces of leather on them, so I’m considering them Italian leather shoes!!

Friday, March 2

We visit both the Museo Nationale del Bargello and Sante Croce. And find ourselves saturated with art and need a break. Since neither Tom nor I are shoppers, it’s time to head to the countryside. Tomorrow a bus tour. We will be 100% American tourist and go with the herd. It will be a good day for letting someone else do the map reading, guidebooks, etc.

Saturday, March 3

The tour begins at 9 am a short distance from our hotel at the Piazza Stazione at the corner with Piazza dell’Unita. We head out of the city to Siena through the Roman gates – named because they are in the direction of Rome (south). The tour guide will conduct the tour in both English and French. She gives us a great overview of the history of Florence. It is wonderful to see the countryside with the vineyards and gardens. It’s a beautiful day.

Sabra, our tour guide, is actually a school teacher who does the tours on weekends and during the summer. She is fluent in German and Spanish as well. Her boyfriend is a wine and olive oil taster. Talking with her is as interesting as the information she provides us as part of the tour.

We arrive in Siena and a local guide takes over from there. We walk toward the cathedral stopping in front of the oldest bank in Italy/Europe (maybe the world) – thought I’d throw that in for any of my 5/3 friends reading. Banking was big business back then, and the bankers were very influential and wealthy. Hummmm. Anyhow, bankers funded many of the beautiful building sites. A cathedral was planned for Siena that was to be larger than St. Peter’s in Rome and in an L-shape which is not in keeping with the Catholic Church (news to me). Siena was very wealthy at this time. The baptistery was started first and has just recently been restored on the outside. The marble is beautifully white with pink and green accents. But as the cathedral was being built, the plague hit, and the population of Siena went from 50,000 (huge at that time) to 4,000. Today, it is back to 50,000. But the original plans for the cathedral had to be scaled back. What was finished remains remarkable, and the Libreria Piccolomini (a private chapel for the Piccolomini (?) family who produced two Popes during this time) is worth a trip to Siena all by itself. The frescoes are totally original – no cleaning or restoration. They are brilliant and bright as the day they were painted. We saw the original rose window and altar piece for the cathedral both by Duccoi in the Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana. So we were ready for some more art!!

We opted to do a traditional Tuscan lunch organized by the tour at the Ristorante Gallo Nero – why be adventuresome on our day off! And ended our tour in the town square, Piazza del Campo. Google il Palio Siena to learn about the annual horse races around this town square. Amazing pictures.

We make our way to San Gimignano. Tom and I find ourselves a nice bench that looks out over the valley (as SG is at the top of a mountain/hill). I would like to spend a week in the Tuscan countryside. On our way back, Sabra suggests that we take a bus to Michelangelo’s Square to watch the sunset. I make a note of that.

Sunday, March 4

We decide to make some travel plan changes. This requires a bit of internet time. You know these 1 cent flights from Ryan Air?? Not so cheap and easy when you want to make a change. But it all works out and we will spend an extra night in Florence, skip Rome, and head back to Dublin a bit early. We need to cool our jets a bit more. And this provides us with a much more relaxed schedule for the next few days. Isn’t that what vacations are suppose to be? We get reservations for hotels, planes, etc. changed and booked. And we are enjoying a great sunny day. The streets are full of people. By the time we regroup into tourist mode, the Medici is closing. We sat and pondered our options and actually chose a special exhibit at the Palazza Strozzi in the Piazzo della Repubblico: Cezanne a Firenze. We thought it would probably not be a significant exhibit because it was easy to get into – I think of the difficulty in getting tickets to an impressionist exhibit at the Chicago Art Museum. And the brochure seems low-key. But this is Florence. Most major impressionists artists had at least one work displayed, and a number of Cezanne’s from private collections. One even from the US Government described as a “unique loan from the White House.” We then find an outdoor restaurant on the Piazzo della Repubblico for lunch and to watch the people walking and kids on the merry-go-round in the plaza. It is obviously a family oriented place on Sunday afternoons.

Monday, March 5

We are finally getting into vacation mode with a late start. Sat outside on the terrace in the sun for a second cup of cappuccino. We both look at each other and wonder what it will be like to return to TC. Who will make us our cappuccino?

We enjoyed the Duoma Opera and the Baptistery. Unfortunately, the Gates of Paradise door is being renovated at the Opera (the original) as well as the Baptistery (the replica). But the Opera is very informative and well laid out with outstanding art work. The silver altar is also being restored – very disappointing. But then we actual see the restoration people working on a small piece. It is like shining old silver but with q-tips. It will be gleaming when it is done. I wish I could see it. I do find out that the panels from the door are on tour in NYC, Chicago, and Atlanta!

Inside the Baptistery is a gorgeous mosaic on the ceiling. Again, Tom and I try to decipher the biblical scenes. Some remain a mystery.

We lunch at the Piazzo della Signoria and then want to head to Piazzo Michelangelo as our tour guide from Siena suggested. Unfortunately, we are still on the bus for the best part of sunset and arrive for the last ½ hour. Still beautiful, but no memorable pictures to post. We may try again tomorrow. But this is a great place to see the river and all the bridges. It should be mentioned in more guidebooks.

Tuesday, March 6^th

Our last day in Florence. I think we have done a great job seeing this incredible city. We head out to the Cappela Medici. You’ve got to hand it to that family – they could really spend money. The number of relics in their highly decorated containers continues to baffle me. Tom provides an explanation of some sorts, but I see the beginnings of why there was a Reformation. Of course, it took highly skilled craftsmanship to design and create these “holders.” I guess I had to be part of that period of history to more appreciate the symbolism. On to the chapel. It’s almost gaudy, but gorgeous. The marble, the inlay. It is said they (Medici’s) wanted the Holy Sepulcher as its centerpiece. ????? Onto the tombs created by Michelangelo.

We are both glad we took another slow and relaxed day as our last day in Florence. Glad not to be on the train to Rome. We are disappointed that it is a cloudy day, but we still take the bus back up to Michelangelo Plaza. No lovely sunset to see, but still a great and a nice bus ride through neighborhoods. Last night I woke up in the middle of the night before the clouds rolled in to see the almost full moon right outside our window – I didn’t even have to move out of bed. I wonder if the students remembered to notice the full moon on March 3^rd. I had reminded them before we left AND before I knew there was going to be an eclipse. Wonder who saw it and where!!

Off we go from 60 degrees to 40 degrees. Dublin here we come – again.