From the heights of Montmatre to the buzz of the Champs Elysee

The view over Paris from Montmatre
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I took a break from the delights of Le Marais' nightlife last night as I really pushed myself yesterday with the sightseeing. But Paris is like that, theres always something interesting around the corner. Theres always something else you want to see. Today, I was going to take it reasonably easy and head up to Montmatre. The day threatened rain and there hasn't been an unclouded sky since I have arrived in the city. I'm sure Parisians would object vocally but this city has more in common with London then I'm sure it would like to admit.

Tourists treading on each others toes in Place du Tetre.
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I hopped on the METRO this morning takin the line to Belleville and taking the Port Dauphine line to Anvers. Hordes of tourists alight here and head the same way up Rue Steinequrque to the heart of Montmatre. Montmatre is a very distinctive district of Paris, set on a hill it will be remembered for that heartwalming film "Amelie" with its hidden corners, stone steps and hidden cafes being the perfect place for the heroines matchmaking. And it does have the reputation of quintessential romantic Paris which means visiting it comes at a price. The walk up to the Sacre Coeur is covered in tourist stalls and crowds. You literally have to weave your way around the packtoting German tourists blocking the narrow lane and climbing the stairs to the famous church.

Montmatre descends is a charming area. Rue de Saules took me down cobbled streets, past white overhanging houses, brassieres

The vineyards of Montmatre
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The tourists sit on the steps of Sacre Coeur. A little international gang hanging out in a "in" place. But I rather liked the church itself. Built in a kind of marble/rock that actually gets whiter when wet (very useful today) it was built to atone for the carnage of the 1870 Communard uprising on Montmatre. It looks like a great wedding cake or as someone mentioned - a giant meringue. Entrance is free and inside is light and airy with a mural of Christ on its dome inside with his arm outstretched. But what was more interesting, not to say infuriating was the nearby Place du Tetre. This small square is bursting with overpriced cafes, plane trees, monoprix restaurants and souvenir shops.

The backstreets of Montmatre
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There are lines of portrait artists selling overheavy portraits of Paris in the rain. This was the closest Paris gets to tourist overkill and it is not a pretty sight. You were literally tripping over Danes with camcorders or Japanese trying to aline their freinds up against the white dome of the Sacre Coeur. I couldnt get out of there quick enough. But away from that where Montmatre descends is a charming area. Rue de Saules took me down cobbled streets, past white overhanging houses, brassieres and a restaurant built in a windmill. A reminder of a time when Montmatre was all fields and vineyards.

The Arc de Triomph at the end of the Champs Elysee.
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Then it was a trip on the METRO down to Etoile and the Arc de Triomphe where I spent an hour or so viewing this and exploring the Bois de Bologne and Passy (see review). But the main draw was the magnificent Champs Elysee. Possibly the most famous street in the world and with the Arc de Triomph at one end and the Place du Concorde at the other you can see why all cities look to Paris for their inspiration (except London and New York funnily enough). I walked the entire length of the ten lane boulevard and every inch is covered in cafes, cinemas, restaurants and nightclubs (including Le Queen and Le Lido). Expensive restaurants such as Fouquets, the abode of film stars, lined the Champs. And, I like everyone else who visits it wished I was rich enough to appreciate it.

Paris on a budget is still Paris. And it doesnt get better then that.