Seoul

Meal on first night
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Spent three days in Seoul -- the last days of my journey.  First trip to Asia, and first time in my life I have felt lost, in terms of navigation and communication.

I kept my map handy every minute I was there.  Still, I became disoriented on a regular basis.  The place names and streets were long, similar-sounding, and difficult to identify on the map and in person.  (For example, ChanDEOKgung Palace vs. ChangGYEONgung Palace?)  Few signs were in English, and even these were a bit confusing.

Outside the Village of Traditional Houses; perhaps the best picture of my trip?
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VERY few people spoke English.  During my three days, I remember ONE instance where the other person spoke proficient English.  And that was in the airport.  In fairness, I did not attempt to learn any Korean, other than a single phrase (an nyong...) that is used in saying hello and goodbye.

Along the way, I experienced several humorous non/mis communication episodes:

Asking two different cabbies to take me to Anguk station and having them refuse.  It's still not clear to me why they said no.  In any case, it was a bit humiliating to jump into a cab on a busy corner, and get thrown out several seconds later.

We're the kids of Korea...woh-oh
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Having a waitress mistakenly think I wanted three more kiwiade drinks, when in fact I wanted one more.

Asking for (and receiving) a banana from a coffee shop that didn't sell them.  I later realized the fruit was meant for smoothies.  At least I didn't pay for it.

Having a series of encounters at The Village of Traditional Houses (tourist site).  First, there were two men that wanted to interview me regarding the Korean visitor information centers.  Second, there were school kids, who went APE when they saw me (young, white-skinned man, by himself, with a BEARD!).  "Hello!" "How are you?" "Nice to meet you!" they repeatedly screamed at me.  I sent one class into delirium when I posed for a photo with them.  Third, there was a young woman who came out of nowhere and started asking me, "Where are you from?" "Would you like to do a homestay in Korea?"  As I answered, I wheeled around and realized I was being filmed?!?

Inside one of the traditonal houses
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Despite all this craziness, I did manage to see and do a fair amount:

Toured Changdeokgung Palace (not to be confused with the other one that sounds, and probably looks?, just like this one).   The Secret Garden was a bit anti-climactic, but the palace was still very pretty.

Visited the Jogyesa Temple, a Buddhist temple in the city center.  Loved the colors here, of the paper lanterns and the enormous statuettes inside the temple.

Explored the War Memorial of Korea (apparently the world's largest war memorial).  Here I learned about the US's and Russia's hand in creating N and S Korea, saw war relics and weapons, and climbed up (and in) planes and tanks.

Changdeokgung Palace
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Walked around Sunglyemun (or the south gate to the city).  It was neat to see the juxtaposition of the gate, which was built in 1394, to the modern buildings of today.  I watched several guard-changing rituals, and even helped stand guard myself.

Watched several matches in the qualifying round of the Seoul Women's Squash Open.  Saw an American beat a Korean in the first match.  (Don't worry, I didn't stand up and start chanting USA! USA! USA!)  Was amused when at one point in the same match the umpire announced: I did not see what happened.  Please redo the point.

Detail of the palace
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Took a cab to the Seoul Tower one night, only to discover that access to the observatory ended at 10 PM not 11 PM.  Walked 45 minutes to the bottom of the hill, but not before snapping photos of the everchanging lights atop the tower.

Enjoyed several fantastic Korean meals.  One night, a former colleague (and Seoul native) took me out to a traditional meal.  We sat on floor mats and he ordered.  Seconds later the waitress came out with about 25 bowls, and we dug in with our chopsticks.  One bowl had beef, one (or more?) had kimchi, and the rest contained...I have no idea.  It was all sensational.  Except for one bowl that altered my ear pressure and made me feel like my head was going to explode!