Yet Another Delighful Mexican Surprise

Since travelling around South America, I have become intrigued by the indigenous cultures of those who inhabited this marvelous latin continent before it was invaded by the Conquistadors. The way that they adapted to the imposition of a new Catholic religion and Spanish dominance is something that interests me very much.

This is why I came to San Cristobal de Las Casas in the state of Chiapas. This town represents the gate way to Mayan Mexico and offers an incredibly fascinating perspective of Middle America. Most inhabitants are either the descendants of the ancient Mayas or Bohemian Europeans who have made a new life here.

It is something to be seen and testament to the fact that Mexico truly is a rainbow of cultures, dance and traditions.

The town is small and sleepy, surrounded by hills and it rests at approximately 2000 meters above sea level. I arrived in the rainy season and I certainly knew about it. At around 3 o´clock in the afternoon, the heavens opened and emptied every last drop of condensation. Although I am starting to develop a great dislike of dampness, what is astonishing about this town is the view of the fluffy clouds competing with the mountain peaks, almost in an attempt to erase them. This misty mountain town is also a colonial one, with cobbled streets constructed by the Spanish and Andalusian architecture, influences every household. The tranquility of this town is what struck me when I first arrived. I feel very peaceful here, simply walking along the streets which are lined with low rise buildings of every imaginable colour.

A particularly beautiful example of this city´s colonial patrimony, is the Santo Domingo Cathedral. The rose and white stone pillars are what make this baroque building truly astounding. The Templo de San Francisco is beautiful, painted in the gaudy colours of red and gold. It really stands out against the green of the main plaza. Come here in early evening and witness a dance from some of the many ethnic groups that inhabit this region. I was mesmerised by a traditional Mayan dance which involved three men in loin cloths (I know what you are thinking) and a head dress that was made of dozens of long feathers. Dancing bear foot in the rain to the sound of a drum, their stamping and pounding became more erratic and seemingly uncontrolled until they collapsed into a triangular heap. It is something to be seen and testament to the fact that Mexico truly is a rainbow of cultures, dance and traditions.

There are a great deal of other places to visit. The Museum of Mayan Medicine will give you a good insight into how the Maya live their lives and how their beliefs influence the most fundamental of our principles : the preservation of life. They have a variety of doctors. These include traditional midwives, bone setters, pulse readers, herbalists and traditional doctors who consult the spirit of the Earth. Herbal remedies play a huge role in this practice. One important element of it, is the purification of the spirit and the expulsion of evil and other people´s jealousy. Catholic churches are often used for this purpose. People make offerings to Catholic saints, of candles and flowers. They kneel on the ground and pray for a cure for various illnesses. They drink "posh", a fermented maize drink, then finally, to expel evil, coca cola is drunk to provoke this. Hens are also used by brushing them over the body in order to absorb evil. The hen is then killed. This latter practice derived from Jews who had converted to Catholicism and came to the New World.

The next day, I visited San Juan Chamula and Zinacantan. The first village is without a doubt, one of the most interesting places that I have been to so far in Mexico. The people of the village, the "Tzizil" are very much an isolated people who do not let outsiders reside with them. They preserve their traditions in strict defiance of colonialism. The remnants of Mexico´s colonial past however, are still visible. The Conquistadors forced every ethnic group to wear a uniform which distinguishes them. The women wear black woolen skirts and multi coloured embroidered shirts. Moreover, the religion that is practiced there is a mix of indigenous beliefs and Catholicism. The village contains a white church with blue, green and yellow decoration. It is no longer recognised by the Church but baptisms are performed by a member of the community who was trained by the Greek Orthodox church. People worship saints that do not exist in the Catholic religion, such as San Pedidor. In a world tormented by religious difference, this village is a beacon of tolerance in the obscurity of religious confusion.

When you enter the building, you are confronted with the smell of pine needles which are strewn over the floor, and hundreds of burning candles. The pine needles are a sign that you are welcomed. This sweet mix is truly calming. Women and men kneel on the ground chanting prayers, rocking methodically backwards and forwards. It is mesmerising.

Our guide told us about the superstition of the egg in Mexico. By brushing an egg over your body, (by somebody who is trained in this practice) this will absorb all of the evil or jealousy that is impeding you from obtaining happiness. If, when you crack open it is black, or filled with earth, the evil has been absorbed. These superstitions are practiced by all and not just by indigenous groups. One of our group was a management consultant from Mexico City. He said that he had undergone this ritual and the bad fortune that his family had encountered, was dispelled, almost with immediate effect.

The market in front of the church is an assault on the senses. Fruit vendors  perfume the air with the smell of ripe fruit. This, together with the noise of barking stray dogs, excited by the smell of raw meat from the butchers´stalls makes it a tantalisingly sensual experience, one that will give you an indication of indigenous life.

A final part of our tour was a trip to Zinacantan. Whilst the previous village´s economic activity exclusively involved trade, Zincantan is renowned for the cultivation of flowers. This is the realm of the men. The women weave images of brightly coloured flowers onto their traditional clothes and onto the weavings that are used to decorate their houses. We visited a house and were taken to the kitchen where we learnt how corn flour tortillas are made. The simpicity of existence was amplified by the aroma of burning wood.

Unfortunately, my camera decided to break so I have not been able to upload any images. I would highly recommend the tour because this for me, represents why I travel : to learn about our differences and to see things from other people´s point of view.