A Day In The Old City

Last night I was pretty decided on moving out of my prison cell, oh my mistake... DORM. Still miffed at why Heinrich liked it so much there. One is forced to ask the question Does He Live In A Dungeon With Rats back in his homeland? Maybe then I could understand why he would...

No, I still can't. Sorry.

So... my foot giving me pain, I stayed in at the Hostel Al Haquib Mohammed Hamas...

just kiddin

I'm just bitter. I won't mention it's name on here, but it was dire. The rooms were so cold. We were supplied with a blow heater, but if we actually had it on during the night (although they hadn't informed us we couldn't, and sheesh that cell was cold) someone would sneak in an unplug it. I kid you not.

AND the 'construction work' (bashing through a wall with a pick-axe to 'construct a shower'... no, I haven't much hope of them being successful either) that went on ALL HOURS OF THE NIGHT. AND MORNING. So, no. Didn't really get much in the way of sleep either.

Oh, and did I mention there was no hot water? And that only a dribble actually comes out of the 'shower' (if you can indeed call it such).

Righto - I get the feeling this rant could go on for quite some time, so I'll gag myself now.

And onto today. Ewdit (the spelling of her name keeps evolving) was in two minds whether or not to leave last night as she was so tired and couldn't take another sleepless night having to listen to the banging and drilling next door. However, I convinced her to stay. I had my alarm set early so that I could get packed up and check out early, and find elsewhere to stay.

At about 6am I got up to use the bathroom. I must have woken Ewdit, as she started singing 'Happy Birthday' (that's right, folks. I'm the ripe old age of 23 as of today) to me. Pretty funny, as I still wasn't fully awake, and neither was she. She's a bit eccentric, that lady, but absolutely lovely nonetheless.

I finally got up properly at around 9, and proceeded to brace myself for a cold shower. I did it! And I forced myself to wash my hair. Agony! But no hat today! Woohoo!

Exchanged email addresses with Ewdit and made my way, via bus (it's a short distance, but what with my foot being as it is and having my backpack, I chose the easy option). Checked into the Jerusalem Inn, which is 20 sheqels (about 2.5 quid) a night more expensive, but totally worth it. Feels like a palace in comparison (not hard, admittedly). I then made my way back to the Old City to have a proper explore.

On re-entering Jaffa Gate and making my way down Davids Street, and onto the Via Dolorosa, I was greeted with the usual

'He-llo, you want to look in my shop?'

'Welcome ma'am, you want to buy?'

'Excuse me! Excuse me!'

'Pleez, have you a moment, pleez? Excuse me!'

'Where you from? London? You want to buy pretty earrings? I have very pretty earrings!'

etc. etc. etc.

I had adopted the totally savvy approach of having my walkman earphones in my ears, without music, so wasn't getting AS much bother. However, I wandered into the 'Christian' quarter (still arab shops though), when I middle-aged arab looking gent approached me 'Hello, young lady. I would like to give you a present'

'Sorry sir, I'm not buying anything'

'No, I know you're not'

Ok, so somehow he managed to coerce me into his shop. Apparently if he wanted to make a sell, he'd target a wealthy looking elderly lady, not some scruffy (well, he was too polite to put it that way) young chick, such as myself.

Moses (as he told me his name was - actually turned out to be Mohammed Moses - due to Muslim father and Jewish mother), said he'd noticed with amusement how I'd been dealing with the arabs calling out to me, and apparently could tell that I'm a nice person (show's how perceptive HE is - bah!) regardless of how I wasn't stopping for them.

So, he asked my favourite colour (blue), asked which shade I'd prefer, from an aray of stones he had (turquoise), and proceeded to make some lovely earrings for me. Turns out he has family in England and used to run a coffee shop in South Kensington. He showed me photos of his children and introduced me to his brother. As it was my birthday (I finally accepted his invitation to make me a present after telling him this), he invited me to drink tea with him, and outside his store so I wouldn't feel as uneasy. I agreed, he made a phonecall and ushered me outside.

Within a couple of minutes (if that) of sitting there, suddenly a little arab man came scuttling along out of nowhere, carrying a brass tray suspended from a chain, and held two glasses of tea, with a sprig of.... erm, tea? (didn't know there was such a thing..) floating on top. Moses and I took the tea, said thank you, and the little man scuttled off again.

Jerusalem is quite a claustrophic city - the Old City, anyway. It's like a being trapped in a maze, and very easy to get lost in as you are almost always walking along some street that is more similar to a well-like corridor made of stone (for want of a better way of describing it), crammed full of people outside the stalls, people pushing wheelbarrows through, or carrying pallets of produce on their heads, barging you out of the way. Moses says he returned to Jerusalem about 8 months ago to reopen his business as he likes the community spirit here, and the easy way of life. He proceeded to give me ideas of places to go to take good photos, advice on dealing with Israeli (and also Arab) men, places to avoid, etc. He was very kind. Also invited me out for dinner tomorrow night, but said he understands how as a British girl I wouldn't want to accept as it would come across as inappropriate in my culture, but the offer's there if I want it - he just wants to show Jerusalem in a positive light to me, as a foreigner.

I finally decided to leave to have a mooch around and take some photos. Moses gave me his card, invited me to call by whenever I want, and wished me a nice day.

Today was beautiful, so I wandered around, admidst the fabrics hanging from above, the strong aromas of incense, and cries of

'Hello, Miss! Can I help you, Miss?'

'Excuse me! Excuse me!'

'A moment, pleez?'

'You want earrings? Earrings?'

'Hey! You want a husband?!!!' (cheeky bastard! Do they think there are no men out West or something?)

etc. etc. (I'm sure you get the picture by now).

I found my way to the Holy Sepulture church. Sorry to disappoint you, but WHAT A DEPRESSING DARK DAMP HOLE! I find it hard to believe that God would want his place of worship to be such. I couldn't wait to get back out into the sunshine. I won't be visiting that place in a hurry again, I tell you!

I had a wander around to the Jewish Quarter (after getting repeatedly lost in the arab quarter... and pretending I knew where I was going - no, I haven't purchased a map yet. Totally on the top... well NEAR the top, of my 'to do' list, I promise you), and back to the net cafe where I had been a few days previous with Doug, just to quickly check my email (good thing too - I had heaps), to be greeted by the young Israeli boy (ok, man. He's probably in his mid-twenties) 'Ahhh, you again! The girl in the hat' (oy! what is it with that hat that is so memorable?!?!?) 'Remember? How you today? So good to see you again!' he then kept talking to me, no... wait, AT me, while I was checking my email, and asked what beer I like to drink 'I don't drink beer... anymore' ('yeah RIGHT!' I hear you cry in unison), and then what I do drink 'Erm.. I don't really drink' (ok, ok!), and then if I'd like to eat out 'Erm... I don't e..' - no, I couldn't possibly tell such a fib, so I just explained that I was tired and probably going to have an early night (true, I swear!), and so he told me to drop by any time if I wanted to take him up on the offer.

Israeli men. I tell you. They are very confident. Bumped into Doug (50something American Jew from a few days previous) a while later and he said 'He's cute - you should've taken him up on it'

Hmmm... I'm not convinced.

Also explored around Damascus Gate area. Completely disorganised mess of a place, everyone yelling at you to buy their produce. Preferable to the meat stalls where there is blood running along the stone walkways, though.

Yeah, so I bumped into Doug at Jaffa Gate later on, when I was resting my foot. Boy, can that guy talk. He didn't seem to have taken it so bad that I gave him the slip. We had a pretty un-PC conversation (hmmm... conversation? No, he doesn't really give much room to interject with any comments of your own) which I will not repeat here, but it was very entertaining. He is looking to rent a place here in Jerusalem, having secured a job, and purchased a Harley Davidson! Suh-weet!

And so now I find myself back in the New City, wondering what to have for my birthday dinner. I haven't set myself any rules today, as it IS my birthday, so if I want ice-cream and yet more ice-cream, followed by cake, and then sugar, and chocolate...

IT'S MY RIGHT.