Dinner with a Sex Tourist

Here a monk, there a monk, everywhere a monk, monk! Coming into contact with a woman means three days of absolutions. They steer a wide course around all women, including me!
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It was tough pulling myself out of bed in time for the 7:15 bus to Chiang Mai this morning, but I made it!  Bargaining with a tuk-tuk driver to get to the bus station was one of the more humorous parts of the morning.  It's disappointing to see that Americans have a terrible reputation around here.  Today is the third time I've watched a Thai person's face look completely crestfallen once I told them I was an American.  I would hope such reactions would insipre some introspection.

The main Buddah and others inside the Wat. It's so beautiful, all the colored mirrors - green, teal, blue, gold, and red. And everything is coated in a golden glow. It's amazing!
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The bus ride was uneventful.  I've been savoring the one book I bought in the SF airport, but I know I probably can't make it last forever.  Especially if I end up on a Mekong River trip!

so I bought a phrasebook and plunked down at the Italian place

After getting set up at a Chiang Mai guest house, reserving spaces in tomorrow's cooking class (I think we'll be the only two!), and chatting up some physical therapists from Seattle, Nicole and I went our seperate ways for the afternoon and evening.

I picked this photo because it shows some of the outer detail. Really incredible!
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I, of course, had to start with a small nap.  Then it was off to the city's most majestic temple for twenty minutes of contemplation in front of the huge and beautiful Thai buddha.  Then, fancying something other than Thai food (hey - I eat it at least once a day!), I headed for an Italian place near a used book shop.  I can't stand not knowing the language or being able to satisfy my curiosities about it, so I bought a phrasebook and plunked down at the Italian place.  My crab pasta and wine had just arrived when an American fifty-something man asked me how it was.  Since I'm always having to do "take away" after every meal, I invited him to order some anti-pasta and share my dish.

The Wat in widescreen - the detail here was so incredible!
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Turns out he's a 53 year old retired pharmacist from Pennsylvania who used to teach at a few universities in the US.  Has children in their early teens in Michigan.  Is a sex tourist!  I held my own, pegged him with all my questions about the biz, and made my diapproval very clear.  He was fairly unaware of my stance and often told me more than I wanted to know, but I got my curiosity satisfied.  He says that the women there largely do it to support their families, and it's more like a relationship than a business transaction.  They come after white men in friendly ways hoping to play host at all the dining hot spots and attractions and end up with a few thousand bhat (about $60 - $90) whenever their family needs something (medical appointments, etc.).  Weird.

I excused myself rather definitively, leaving no room for protest, and headed off to leave a note for Nicole at our guesthouse before heading to the night bazaar.  After a mile or two, I arrived to some desperate vendors who don't let up (very unlike all the other experiences I've had here) and ran out of time after only four or five blocks.  On the way home, I took a "short cut" that sent me almost a mile out of my way.  When will I ever learn to retrace my steps?!

Tomorrow is an entire day of Thai cooking class, and then on to... I don't know.  Pai?  Chiang Rai?  Somewhere in between?