Top Ten Off-the-Beaten Track Spots in Spain

1.    Puenta La Reina

Named for the many-arched Romanesque bridge spanning the River Arga, this town of 2,000 has long been known for its hospitality to travelers. And, indeed, for a town of this size, there are numerous shops and establishments catering to both Camino pilgrims and other wayfarers. There are bars and restaurants as well as lodging for both pilgrims (basic) and tourists (ranging from comfortable to luxurious.)  [Navarra Province, Spain]

Maybe I could stay forever.

2.    Cirauqui

To say that Cirauqui is in the Middle of Nowhere would make it seem actually cosmopolitan. This medieval town sits proudly on a hill, so it is visible from afar for the traveler approaching from the surrounding roads or from the Camino Santiago. Inside the town are winding streets, preserved stone houses with balconies, and a few lodging places for both pilgrims and tourists. And wine, there is always wine in Spain.

But more than this, Cirauqui has several kilometers of well-preserved Roman road, including an arched Roman bridge. These are both easily reached by foot, walking under the Pilgrim’s Arch at the edge of town. [Navarra Province, Spain]

3.    Agés and Atapuerca

About 20 kilometers/12 miles east of the city of Burgos are the two tiny towns of Agés and Atapuerca.  I visited both on a warm June mid-morning, when the world - or at least the province of Burgos - seemed asleep. The first part of my walk from the hamlet of San Juan de Ortega (St. John of the Nettles) had been a lovely stroll gently climbing through pinewoods before I reached Agés. Along a sleepy Agés street, I found a restaurant adjacent to the El Pajar Hostel that served the best coffee I had ever tasted. I stayed for refills, and then a sandwich, and finally walked out to take a look at this timeless town: one main street, rows of old buildings, yet two pilgrim hostels – including a quite modern one next to the restaurant where I had breakfasted. The parish church, and the road out of town. Nothing more. But across the fields, bright poppies and thistles colored the rolling landscape. Maybe I would stay forever.

But I walked on, passing by the old stone bridge built by San Juan. When I reached Atapuerca a short while later, I saw a town where people indeed had stayed forever.

Atapuerca is the site of archeological digs that have uncovered fossil human remains more than 300,000 years old. I stopped at the Atapuerca town exhibit center then nearing completion, and saw reconstructions of the earliest European humans. Two weeks after my visit, the Atapuerca Foundation announced the discovery of a million year old human tooth, representing Western Europe's "oldest human fossil remain."  [Burgos province, Spain]

4.    Astorga

About 50 kilometers /30 miles from León you will reach little Astorga, originally the Roman town of Asturica.  But, on arriving at the Plaza Catedral, you might think you´ve actually reached a section of Disneyland - the first thing to catch your eye is the Palace for Bishops, designed by the famous architect Antonio Gaudí.

Now a town of 12,000, Astorga has long been a crossroads town for important trade and pilgrimage routes. Intact Roman walls encircle much of the city, attesting to its age and importance.

A walk through the town showed me that this was no ordinary town in Spain.  I passed no fewer than FIVE stores specializing in chocolate, as well as a Chocolate Museum!  In fact, I had to stop to buy some right away, and it improved my spirits immediately.

There are bars, restaurants and lodging places, including at least 4 basic pilgrim albergues in addition to the many tourist hotels and pensions.

[León province, Spain]

5.    Molinaseca

Molinaseca is a refreshing little town with the prettiest entrance of any town on the Camino Santiago. Coming down from the mountains, you cross the river Meruelo over an ancient arched stone bridge, Puente de Peregrinos (“Pilgrims’ Bridge.”) There the riverside restaurant beckons immediately, with its music and al fresco seating along the river. The lovely village has been declared a 'Patrimonio Historico Artistico' as much of its original architecture has been saved. Indeed, one of the first buildings in view is the 18^th Century church literally set into the mountain. Along the stone streets, hotels and inns retain their historical essence while providing modern comforts. This enchanting village offers a weary traveler a most civilized escape from the rigors of walking. Even if you do not actually walk to Molinaseca, you will still enjoy this hospitable town.

6.    Pontferrada

Astorga may have its palace, but Pontferrada has a castle. And what a castle it is! The magnificent 12^th century Castillo de los Templarios is the most complete castle I have seen, dominating the medieval part of the city. With a population of 60,000, Pontferrada is large for inclusion in an “off-the-beaten-track” list, but the many interesting historic sites are concentrated in the small old town quarter, which lies on the opposite side of the river Sil from the bustling modern city. This quarter boasts a number of pleasant plazas, with restaurants offering outdoor seating and wonderful regional Bierzo food.

One of the plazas is named for the Virgin of the Encina in honor of the patroness of the Bierzo region. The story is that the Templars found a special statue of the virgin in an evergreen oak (encina) tree, which is the reason the Virgin is so revered here. The Basilica de la Encina dates from the 16^th century and dominates the square. Nearby Plaza Mayor is through an arch in the equally old Torre del Reloj (clocktower.) Museums abound in the town, including an interesting Museo de la Radio.

I stayed in the large municipal albergue (hostel) reserved for camino pilgrims, but there were many hotels and inns for travelers to Pontferrada.

7.    Sarria

Like many Spanish towns, Sarria has its “old town” and its “new town.” But luckily for Sarria and its visitors, the new town developed away from the old quarter toward the railway line, leaving the old town unchanged. Along steeply rising calle Mayor (rúa Maior) in the old quarter, you will find the 13^th century Church of the Savior (Iglesia del Salvador) and the ruins of the castle Fortaleza de Sarria from the same period. About 10 miles outside Sarria is the tiny town of Samos, with its famous and much-visited Monasterio de Samos.

The Rio Sarria runs through the town, and a lively restaurant quarter lies along its banks. As with most of Spain, the restaurants are open for business well into the late night hours.

Just across a small bridge from this quarter is a modern hotel Alfonso IX, where I stayed in moderate but economic luxury, a respite from the hostels of previous nights.

Sarria is a really nice town, and had eating establishments that catered to both tourist and local tastes.   During my visit the town held its annual festival for St. John and I was treated to midnight fireworks and late night music and dancing.

8.    San Adrian de Cobres, Rectoral de Cobres

This is one of the best little hotels in the world.  Some of the guests come back twice a year, every year.  Others, like Her Royal Highness Cristina (daughter of the King of Spain), come only once.  But hotelkeepers Juan and Randi at Rectoral de Cobres treat all guests royally, and indeed you will feel very welcome here.

Now a charming country hotel, the old rectory building dates back several hundred years, and was in fact a ruin when the current owners transformed it a number of years ago.  It has eight rooms, all well appointed with great views; at least one room is handicapped-accessible.   In addition, there are several comfortable lounge rooms, a cozy bar, a breakfast room and library.  The walls are solid stone, in the Galician style, and the hotel boasts a small conference center and swimming pool.

San Adrian de Cobres is not on your usual map of Spain.  But the town is only a 15-minute drive from Vigo and an hour from Santiago, both cities with international airports.  Since the hotel has only eight rooms, be assured you will enjoy the best hospitality.  But, since it is small, you’ll want to book early.

I have stayed here twice, and plan to come back at least once a year.

www.rectoral.com

[Pontevedra province, Spain]

9.    Noia

The town of Noia first came to my attention while watching the Spanish movie “The Sea Inside,” which won the 2004 best foreign film Oscar. The magnificent scenery of the mountains and the sea caught my attention, so I researched the filming locale and discovered Noia. That summer I visited Noia and thus began my love affair with Galicia.

A thriving town on the Galician coast, Noia combines history and a medieval old district with attractive local beaches and genuine Galician culture. The old district has cobblestone streets and a beautiful old church, along with bars and restaurants. Be sure to sample a seafood platter, and ask the waiter to show you how to eat percebes; you probably won’t find these delicious seafood morsels anywhere but Galicia.

http://www.galiciaguide.com/Noia-index.html

[Pontevedra province, Spain]

10. Finisterre

Finisterre, the “end of the world,” was just that to the ancients, a rocky cape at the westernmost edge of the known world. The name of Cape Finisterre derives from Finisterrae in Latin, which literally means "Land's End". Today’s Cape Finisterre has a notable lighthouse with a well-worn trail to the rocky point of the cape, with its much-photographed cross monument. Nearby is seaside Fisterra - an ancient port and fishing village, its narrow streets leading to the central plaza with a number of basic hotels. In fact, all along the rocky coast leading to Finisterre you will find picturesque towns with hotels, inns and restaurants.

Cape Finisterre is 90 kilometers/ 55 miles from Santiago de Compostela, the traditional end point for the famous Camino Santiago pilgrimage. It is traditional for pilgrims who continue on to Finisterre to burn their clothes and/or boots there at the end of their long, long journey. I saved my gear for another trip to these wonderful places.

[A Coruña province, Spain]