Old City of Jerusalem
From Journey to the Holyland in Jerusalem, Israel on May 31 '07
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Day One
Entered into Israel via Taba Border.
Spiritual Journey to the Holyland
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Enroute to Jerusalem, we stopped at the site where Lot’s wife was turned to a salt pillar. Yes, being cheeky, both Christina and Gloria literally licked the stones just to check if it was salty. As soon as we reached Jerusalem Caesar Hotel, Ambrose informed us that a handsome Canadian priest would be joining us for the Israel leg. What a treat!
Day Two
The morning began on an awesome note with an introduction to our Spiritual Director for the duration of the Israel leg. He is Father Michael Tapajna, a tall smashing Canadian Priest, with blond and white streaks hair, and smoky grey eyes, looking very much like a movie star!
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After a prayer led by Father, we headed to the small picturesque biblical town of Ein Karem, the birthplace of John the Baptist, nestling in the valley to the west of the city. We stopped at Mary’s well and did the customary photo shot, touching the spring water.
Next was the Church of Visitation, built in 1935, where the Virgin Mary visited Elizabeth ie John the Baptist’s mother. What was marvellous was the 45 mosaic tablets on the inner wall of the courtyard depicting the “magnificant” in 45 languages.
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Next was St John the Baptist’s Church built in the late 1800s and where the grotto dates back to the 1st century, and to the spot where John was born. Btw, the grotto cave was very special to Father Michael.
After the visit, prior to boarding the coach, we spotted Father Michael, who incidentally has a sweet-tooth, at a small ice-cream parlour and we all joined him! Very yummy ice cream costing 9 shekels!!!
Next we proceeded to the Israel Museum, where we saw the model of the Temple Mount.
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Thereafter to the Shrine of the Book where the Dead Sea scrolls are exhibited. Oh yes…some of us bought souvenirs of the Dead Sea Scrolls and in the midst of it, we lost Winsom!! Luckily, she was found.
Then we made a quick stop at the Knesset (ie Israeli Parliament) for a photo shot of the Jewish democratic system symbol.
We then proceeded to Mt Zion Plaza /Zion Gate. This gate bears the marks of the Arab and Israeli battles in the 1948 War of Independence. This gate is also known as the Gate of the Prophet David because of the traditional location of David's tomb on Mt. Zion.
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Next was Father Michael’s favourite place, the site at the Diaspora Yeshiva complex, which houses the Upper Room the room where Jesus had his last supper with his 12 disciples. This was where Jesus prepared his disciples for His death, the Holy Spirit’s coming and their future ministry. Shortly after the Passover supper (Lord’s Supper) (see Mark 14:15; Luke 22:12), Jesus was arrested.
And Father Michael took us to the field to show us an underground cave, where he said that that was a place where Jesus gathered with his disciples, and near which looks like a man-made hole, to be a place where Jesus used for baptism.
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Next stop was the Church of the Dormition Abbey, just outside King David’s Tomb. This is the site where the Virgin Mary is said to have died, or fell into ‘eternal sleep’. It’s Latin name is “Dormition Sanctae Mariae” ie “Sleep of St Mary”. In the crypt of the church lies a recumbent statue of the Virgin in death.
Day Three
Started the day with a stop at the Church of All Nations. Why is it called Church of All Nations? Well, this fine Byzantine-style mosaic façade church’s construction was made possible by the donations of 12 nations. This church is also known as the Basilica of Agony.
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Adjoining the church is the Garden of Gethsemane, located opposite the temple, across the KidronValley on the lower slopes of the Mount of Olives. After the Passover meal with His disciples, Jesus engaged in fervent prayer in the Garden of Gethsemane. He underwent a great inner struggle, knowing that the hour of his betrayal was coming soon. It was here that Judas betrayed Jesus to temple authorities who placed Jesus under arrest (Matt 26:36; Mark 14:32-50; Luke 22:39-54; John 18:2-12). More than anything else Jesus realized that He must say "yes" to the Father and bare the weight of the sins of all mankind. He prayed three times and was pressed to the extent that He sweated great drops of blood. At the Garden of Gethsemane, it was a very special moment for Father Michael, as he conducted a mass in the very same garden that Jesus prayed and wept. It was hard to also believe that we were standing on the same ground that Judas betrayed Jesus by planting a kiss. What’s further unbelievable was that the olive trees standing in the garden could be the very same olive trees in Jesus’ time, as recent scientific discovery concluded that the said trees were really over 2,000 years old! Btw….. the scene from Mel Gibson’sPassion played in our minds. From where we sat, we had a view of the TempleMount and the Golden Gates. We also entered the Grotto of Gethsemane, where it is believed that Jesus spent most of his time preaching, teaching and talking to his disciples.
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Next to the Garden of Gethsemane is Mary’s Tomb. Illuminated by candles, the 5th century chapel has niches that is said to hold the remains of Mary’s parents, Joachim and Anne, and her husband Joseph.
Moving on to the Mount of Olives, where we had a breathtaking panoramic view of Jerusalem and the Golden Dome of the Rock, at the TempleMount. It is said that this is where Jesus shall make his triumphant entry into Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives. It is believed that the Messiah will lead the resurrected from here into Jerusalem via the OldCity’s Golden Gate. And it is also said that this is how Jesus will re-enter at the End of Days.
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The Mount of Olives overlooks the Temple Mount from the east and gives a picture of Jesus' weeping over the city of Jerusalem from the Mt. of Olives (Luke 19:41). From the Temple Mount Jesus delivered the famous "7 Woes" against the Pharisees (Matt 23), probably pointing at tombs on the Mt. of Olives in his discourse (v. 27). This we envisaged, through the window of the DominusFlevitByzantineChurch, built in 1954, in the shape of a tear drop.
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Facing the Dome and the Golden Gate, is the Jewish cemetery as Jews believe it to be the place from which God will begin to redeem the dead when the Messiah comes, and hence the Jews have always sought to be buried here.
The biblical significance of the Temple Mount @ Mount Moriah, was where Abraham nearly sacrificed Isaac, where the First and Second Temples once loomed and where the Golden Dome of the Rock now stands. The present TempleMount was constructed by Herod the Great beginning in 20 B.C. It was in this courtyard of the TempleMount that Jesus likely drove out the vendors and money exchangers who were exploiting the people. (Matt 21:12-17; Mk 11:15-17; Luke19:45-46). It is also the only known area where 3,000 could have heard the preaching of Peter and be baptized on the Day of Pentecost. [See Acts 2:6-12].
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Another significance is the entry of Jesus on the Mount of Olives on Palm Sunday, where Jesus descended to cries of “Hosanna”. This was where Jesus taught his disciples about the “end times” while seated on the Mount of Olives. [See Matt 24:3, Mark 13:3].
Next stop was the Church of Ascension where Jesus ascended from here to Heaven. Check out the footprint inside the Church. [See Luke 24: 50-51]
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Then to the PaternosterChurch, a Carmelite Convent with the Lord’s Prayer in numerous languages on its interior walls. This is also where the ruins of the Church of Eleona, on the site where Jesus revealed the mysteries to his disciples. [See Matthew 24:3].
A significant area for the Jews is the Western Wall, where both men and women gather to pray but separately. This gender segregation is strictly enforced, with men praying to the left and the women praying to the right. The wall is about 15m tall and consists of massive carved stone blocks from the HerodianTemple. This is the remaining wall of the western side of the TempleMount. Jews can be seen praying at the Wall and placing their prayer petitions between the gaps of the Wall.
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Next stop was the House of Caiaphas, and where the Church of St Peter in Gallicantu is. The importance of it?? This was the scene of Jesus’ first trial and where Jesus was beaten, scourge and imprisoned by the high priest Caiaphas. It is also here where Peter denied the Lord three times. [See John 18:14-28; Matthew. 26:57-75 ]. Gallicantu means "cock crowing"? Note that the rooster pen provides the timely sound affects as a reminder of Peter's weakness. Btw… this was a very special moment for many of us, especially for Father Michael and Teresa de Silva. Just being in the prison cell, and having to imagine how Jesus was thrown down from high above…literally brought tears to many of us. Here, a photo shot was taken of all of us, cramped in the very room that Jesus cried and suffered for us.
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Back on the bus and whilst heading for lunch, we passed the KidronValley. It is said that this was the place where Judas threw away the 30 silver coins he had received for betraying Jesus. [Matthew 21: 1 -11]
Next, was another important leg of the pilgrimage, the Way of Sorrows ie the14 Stations of the Cross – Via Dolorosa, the route that Jesus took as he carried his cross to Calvary.
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The Via Dolorosa begins near St Stephen’s Gate @ the Lion’s Gate ie at the Muslim Quarter. It starts from the Convent of St Anne (just inside St Stephen’s Gate), the best preserved Crusader church. There’s a crypt designated as Mary’s Birthplace, and the church compound contains the Pools of Bethesada. The walk ends at Calvary Hill or Golgotha, where the HolySepulchreChurch is now located.
The walk led us firstly, to the Pools of Bethesada and then to St Anne’s Church. The Pools of Bethesada is known for being the site of the miraculous healing of a paralyzed man by Jesus, as recounted solely in the gospel of John [See John 5: 1-13], and also of the birth of Mary's mother, "Anne". The site contains extensive excavations revealing the original five pools and remains of the Byzantine, Crusader and mediaeval churches built over the pools, as well as water run-off collection systems dating back to the 8th Century BCE. Adjacent to the Pools of Bethesada is the St Anne’s Church, built by the crusaders. It is said that around 1192 AD, the church was turned into an Islamic school (there is still the opening inscription above the door). In subsequent years the church fell into disuse but miraculously was never destroyed. Thus it remained until 1856 when the Ottoman government, seeking a way to express gratitude to France for help in the Crimean war, gave the church to the French, which explains why todate, it is still run by the French priests.
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We did the Stations of the Cross on foot for the 1st to 7th Stations whilst the 8th to the 14th Stations were done at the Queen Helena Coptic Church.
Met Father Michael at the entrance of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This is the most venerated shrine and was erected by Emperor Constantine the Great in the 4th century, after his mother identified it as the tomb of Jesus. Constantine’s church was destroyed and the present church was built in the 12th century by the Crusaders. Focal points are the section built over the hillock where the Crucifixion took place (called Golgotha), and the tomb were Jesus laid. Inside the church is a rocky outcropping which is the traditional place where the cross was placed. Archaeological excavations have demonstrated that this site was outside the city but close to one of its gates and thus would have been a good location for a crucifixion. Today, this chapel is controlled by the Greek Orthodox Church. The best piece of evidence that the tomb of Jesus was in this area is the fact that other first-century tombs are still preserved inside the church. Called the "Tomb of Joseph of Arimathea," these burial shafts (kokhim) are clearly from the time of Christ's death and thus attest to some kind of burial ground in the area. Combined with the evidence from tradition, this church is most likely the true location of the Christ's death and burial.
The highlight for most of us in the group was lining up to enter the Chapel that contained the Tomb of Jesus, controlled by the Greek Orthodox. In view that it was approaching closing hours, a Greek priest/brother, hurried us and literally was shoving and uttering bad Greek words! Despite all that, one thing for sure, Father Michael kept a very smiling, cool, and calm face and composure and said to each one of us….“come, come… let me show you something special…..”, and that he revealed to us, when inside the Tomb of Jesus, a secret place, yes……………………just behind the “Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus” picture, was a rectangular shaped hole. Father Michael told us to touch it, and said …“This is the real tomb of Jesus”. Needless to say, it was an awesome and startling revelation!
Other notable things are that within the HolySepulchreChurch, is the Angel’s Chapel, the rock that was miraculously rolled away from the tomb entrance, the chapel containing the burial site. Nearby is also an EthiopianChurch.
Just outside the entrance of the Holy Sepulchre Church, Ambrose was carrying an infant boy, due for surgery. His heart went out to the poor child and that resulted in him and some of the pilgrim-mighties, making a small donation to the infant’s family.
We walked through the bazaar and arrived at Jaffa Gate. The sight before is the Citadel and the Tower of David.
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