Ko Lanta

Sunset from the beach
see all photos »

The cheapest way we could find to get to Ko Lanta was by mini bus and although we got the price down to £30 for the four of us, given the cheap train yesterday we still felt ripped off. Still, after 4 hours (Sam and I listening to downloads from Radio 4 and 2 on one ipod and the boys listening to thrash metal and gangsta rap on the other) we got to the ferry terminal unscathed. We had to wait for two hours and high tide in punishing heat for the ferries to sail but by 4.30pm we were dropped off at Fisherman’s Cottages on Ko Lanta where we would spend at least the next week.

Archie and Stan. A moment of peace.
see all photos »

Fisherman’s Cottages were all but swept away in the tsunami a few years ago but like most of the accommodation on the island have now been rebuilt. We are staying in hut number 10, Sea Horse, which is made of white stone walls with a thatched roof and a two foot gap between the two for ventilation which helps as it is again viciously hot here (36 degrees C in the shade). Bathroom attached, no hot water - none required. The bed is so hard that we might as well sleep on the concrete floor if it wasn’t for the mosquito net around it, but this is a minor fault. There are mozzies here but they are smaller and far less of an annoyance than in the Perhentians so our bodies are relatively bite free. The huts are built amongst the palm trees a few metres from the beach which is sandy and clean and there are sun loungers and hammocks so we feel a lot more comfortable than at Mama’s Place where there were none. The food is also in a different league and no more expensive, so although we are still on the same tight budget our stomachs are grumbling far less. There is nothing to see when snorkelling, probably due to the tsunami, but the sea is so calm and warm that it doesn’t really matter. It’s not the main tourist season here yet and most places are half empty (half full?) so the beaches are also quite empty as is the sea and we only see the odd beachcomber from time to time (and boy, is he odd...ha ha!)  Facing west as we are the sunsets over an uninterrupted ocean are glorious and the night sky is clear and full of (shooting) stars.

Inside of our hut and a big monkey.
see all photos »

Everywhere is the sound of birdsong. Ornate bird cages hang all over the grounds and the birds are looked after better than the guests. Cages are cleaned every day, are kept out of direct sunlight, are covered at night and the birds are fed fresh fruit, because when they are happy they sing which is why they are kept - the birds are ‘shown’ in competitions, not for their looks but for the beauty of their song. One bird in particular here is worth 200,000 Baht (over 3 grand!). So birds can be as ugly as vultures but if they can sing they are adored. Like Celine Dion.

The whole vibe here is so relaxed that we are all becoming incredibly chilled out. Our heart beats have slowed as to be almost undetectable, it’s a real effort to get into a hammock let alone swing it and if we exert ourself in doing so we do not have enough energy to move our eyes and watch the odd beachcomber (when he passes). How Kun (our host and Liverpool supporter - we got up at 3am to watch them play Inter Milan in the Champion’s League last night) finds the energy to play football with his mates each afternoon I don’t know, it tired me out taking photos of them.

We all have a bit of colour to our cheeks now despite refusing to sunbathe. Whether anyone back home will notice (or just say ‘you’re not very brown are you’ as with every other holiday) is yet to be seen. Strangely though, and having not had a ‘tan’ before now I had not noticed, my hands are as pale as they ever were, they are refusing to go brown. And so, as the rest of my body changes colour, I am left looking like I am wearing white gloves. It’s beginning to bother me, isn’t this how it all started for Michael Jackson?

But the best thing about staying here is not the vibe, the weather, the ocean or the food but on exploring we found, less than a five minute walk away.... oh joy, upon boundless joy....a newly built 24 hour, air conditioned, 7-11 shop! Snacks, ice cold drinks (including Thai beer!), ice creams, sweets, nuts.... the list is endless. And get this.... they are all so cheap, we can afford them! 7-11 heaven!