The monsoon ordeal continues - tough drive from Ramnager to Rishikesh

Flooded road after flooded road
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Today could possibly be described as an adventure if I was feeling charitable. If I was not feeling charitable I could say it was one of the most scariest journeys I have ever been on.The kind of adventure that BBC2 documentary makers make showing a different side of India. We only got through due to Sureshs' driving and on occasion he had to use his initiative to get us through.

The big problem is that the monsoon is still going strong. Ramnager is situated in one of the arms/foothills of Uttar Pradesh and we had to cross the Gangetic plain to Haridwar/Rishikesh which is as flat as a pancake. Any run-off from the High Himalaya crosses this planin like a surging tide. The paddyfields would fill to capacity then slosh over to the other side of the road. This would block traffic and villagers would roll up their trousers and wade across. I even saw them spread nets across the roads to catch fish who had overflowed from the rivers.

But we did find someone to pull us across. Suresh took off his trousers and turned off the engine. I took off my shoes and socks and brought up my feet onto the seat. As we progressed the water came up over the windows

A little to the west of Ramnager we hit a town that was completely flooded. I mean the water rose above the steps of the houses and people carried their beloingings on their heads. Only gigantic trucks could get through. We pulled over and I saw Suresh watch the scene like a predator - gauging how deep the water was and whether he could risk it. Was it worth trying or perhaps going back the way we come?

He hailed a tractor who agreed to pull us for 100 rupees. A rope was attached to front of the car and Suresh switched off the engine and we were slowly pulled through the floodwaters. At one point the waters came up to the window but we arrived at solid ground, the engine coughed into life and we were on our way again.

But at this point the countryside seemed flooded every fifty yards. At Kandigah the river burst its banks and had flooded the streets to waist-high level. Our mouths dropped open and we just got out of the car and watched the cream coloured torrent whoosh past. One local wag offered to take us across for a 1000 rupees eliciting laughs from his friends. I began to feel uncomfortable being the centre of all this Indian attention.

But we did find someone to pull us across. Suresh took off his trousers and turned off the engine. I took off my shoes and socks and brought up my feet onto the seat. As we progressed the water came up over the windows. The car started to leak and water came up through the floor. I wouldnt say I was scared but there was a real possibility of drowning in that car.

But we came through and despite fraught tempers made it onto solid ground. We had another four hours to Rishikesh which became six due to all the flooding. And though we never encountered the same hardship we did the first hour we were forced through muddy villages and small lanes above paddyfields. It was with great relief at the end of the day making it to the foothills and its sal forests and to cap it all the sun came out...

I remember a sambar deer leaping across the road as we drove higher and at Haridwar the sacred Ganges came into sight. The crowds here were ferocious but the river was tamed and devotees can cling onto chains as they swim off the ghats.

Then finally it was to Rishikesh, town of ashrams and meditation centres. Lit up in the sunshine. Both were tired after today but after an egg chowmein I explored the town.

I managed ten minutes. I was exhausted myself. The stress of the day caught up with me. After all, this is meant to be a holiday..