Instanbul: Days 1 & 2

Brief History

• Greek and Roman ruins throughout Turkey attest to the fertile history of this primeval country. In fact rudimentary tools and fossils prove people have inhabited Turkey since 20,000 BC.

  There is so much to do in Istanbul it nearly merits its own trip...

• Istanbul became one of the most affluent and opulent cities in Christendom for nearly a thousand years, starting in 527-65 AD with Emperor Justinian.

• This magnificent metropolis was once the Byzantine capital known as Constantinople, adorned with grand palaces, public buildings and churches, including the splendid Haghia Sophia.

• Crusaders sacked the city in 1204, and successively the Seijuks, Mongols and then Ottomans conquered the country. The Fall of Constantinople in 1453 ended the Byzantine Empire and brought the country under Muslim Ottoman reign

• It was during this Empire that much of the marvelous secular and religious architecture was built, along with the creation of a wealth of Islamic art. Intricate calligraphy, geometric and foliate patterns cover the interiors of mosques.

There is so much to do in Istanbul it nearly merits its own trip. With additional time I recommend staying four nights to really explore this vibrant and complex city. You will most likely need to overnight before your return flight home, which is reflected at the end of this itinerary.

Where to Stay in Istanbul:

• Which accommodation to choose depends on your budget and personal travel style. Some prefer to be in the action, while others like to retreat to a quieter oasis after a long day of sightseeing and bazaar shopping.

Beyond Beyoglu on the Bosphorus

• If you prefer to be out of the fray and fancy a splurge, the Ciragan Palace Kempinski has long been considered the best hotel in Istanbul. Directly on the Bosphorus, this 18^th century palace is sumptuously decorated and offers impeccable service.

• Also an 18^th century mansion on the Bosphorus, the new 12-suite, ultra-chic resort Les Ottomans sets a new standard for luxury with a price tag to match – rooms start at $1000 USD per night. The hotel has a private yacht for cruising the strait and a Caudalie Vinotherapie Spa.

• For those into design-forward boutique hotels, Sumahan on the Water, a resorted 19^th century distillery is sure to please.

Sultanahmet

• If being steps away from the major sights is your predilection, there are numerous choices in the Sultanahmet neighborhood, walking distance to the Haghia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Hippodrome and other monuments.

• The Four Seasons, housed in a century-old Neoclassical prison, presents the expected level of style, service and understated elegance the brand is known for. The open courtyard and tastefully decorated rooms are a treat after a full day of touring.

• A more affordable yet atmospheric option is the Yesil Ev, a restored 19^th century home enviably located between the Haghia Sophia and Blue Mosque. The gorgeous garden and charming, antique-filled rooms have made this hotel a favorite for international travelers for years.

To Do in Istanbul:

Istanbul is a sizeable, bustling city divided into four main neighborhoods:

• Seraglio Point

• Sultanahmet

• The Bazaar Quarter

• Beyoglu

Seraglio Point

This quiet area is easily navigable on foot

• Topkapi Palace – Built by the Ottoman sultan Mehmet II between 1459 and 1456, this elaborate palace is a series of pavilions and courtyards. The pavilions are lavishly decorated with enameled, gilded and painted surfaces featuring traditional geometric motifs.

• The palace houses an extensive collection of antiques, including some created by palace craftsmen as well as swag from victorious military campaigns in Syria, Arabia and Egypt.

• Especially lovely are the Japanese and Chinese porcelains, brought along the Silk Route, and the exquisite miniature paintings and manuscripts.

• Archaeological Museum – The exceptional collection focuses on classical artifacts, Turkish tiles and ceramics and pre-classical pieces from the Mesopotamian, Egyptian and Anatolian civilizations.

  • Don’t miss the richly carved Alexander Sarcophagus dating to the 4^th century BC picturing Alexander the Great in battle.

  • Also of note is the ornately tiled blue Karaman Mihrab, or prayer niche, from southeast Turkey.

• Meander through the grounds of the first courtyard of Topkapi outside the palace, enjoying the Gulhane Park, customary wooden houses, Fountain of Ahmet III, Haghia Eirene Byzantine church and Zeynep Sultan Mosque.

Sultanahmet

This neighborhood has the highest concentration of monuments, from Roman through Ottoman periods.

• Haghia Sophia – This masterpiece, built by Byzantine emperor Justinian in 537 AD, is one of the top architectural feats on the globe. Originally the Church of Holy Wisdom, it was converted into a mosque in the 15^th century by the Ottomans, when minarets, tombs and fountains were added.

• Nearly every surface is flamboyantly decorated – many guests spend hours wandering the light-punctuated nave and apse, baptistery, mausoleums and fountains noting the intricate styles and patterns.

• Take time to appreciate the outstanding Byzantine mosaics, the most famous depicting Christ flanked by Emperor Constantine IX (ruled 11^th century) and the Empress Zoe.

• Blue Mosque – Across Sultanahmet Square from the Haghia Sohpia, this mosque’s interior is adorned with predominately blue Iznik tiles, hence the name.

• Commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I and built by imperial architect Mehmet Aga in 1609-16, this sensational mosque is an unparalleled example of Islamic architecture and ornamentation.

• The view of the outside from the courtyard, featuring stacked domes, arched windows and attenuated minarets is matched by the delicately painted tile and marble interior.

• Hippodrome – The massive stadium built by Emperor Septimus Severus in the 3^rd century AD and enlarged by Constantine I a century later supposedly held 100,000 spectators.

  • Not much is left of the arena, but the Egyptian Obelisk dated 1500 BC, removed from Luxor and brought to Istanbul by Constantine, still stands tall.

  • The Greek Serperntine Column from Delphi (479 BC) rises beside it.

• Cemberlitas Baths – Situated next to Constantine’s Column, this hamamcomplex is the perfect spot to partake in a Turkish bath, as it is very clean and they cater to foreigners.

• The complete service entails relaxing in the steam room, exfoliating and soaping the body (either yourself or enlist the assistance of a staff member), and a final invigorating massage.

• A visit to a bathhouse is de rigueur in Istanbul, and some luxury hotels have their own facilities.

The Bazaar Quarter

Istanbul’s location has made it a thriving trade center for centuries. Markets selling everything from spices and books to carpets, jewelry and other handcrafted items crowd the labyrinthine streets.

• Please note there are strict guidelines about exporting antiques over 100 years old. Proper certification from a local museum or the Culture of Ministry is required.

• Grand Bazaar – This sprawling covered market established by Mehmet II in 1453 sells everything imaginable. Haggling is part of the fun, as is deflecting the ‘sales pitches’ from enthusiastic vendors.

• The bazaar is roughly divided into sections by wares:

• Antiques and carpets in the center

• Gold and silver towards the Mahmut Pasa and Nuruosmaniye Gates

• Leather and denim by the Beyazit Gate

• Souvenirs near the Carsikapi Gate

• Fabrics along the corridor from the Oruculer Gate

  • Spice Bazaar – Amble the alleyways around this bazaar marveling at the myriad of colorful spices.

• Stop at the nearby 17^th century New Mosque on the waterfront

• Discover the Rustem Pasa Mosque, a gem decorated with the finest quality Iznik tiles.

  • Suleymaniye Mosque – This stunning mosque is important not only for it’s architectural and religious significance but also because it was a charitable foundation, with a hospital, soup kitchen, schools, caravanserai (inn for travelers and their animals) and a bathhouse.

• Erected between 1550-57, the soaring interior and Tomb of Suleyman are not to be missed. The tiles above the coffins are said to be inset with emeralds.

Beyoglu

This cosmopolitan neighborhood is emerging as the new in-spot, with trendy restaurants and stylish boutiques, many around Istiklal Caddesi.

• Istiklal Caddesi – Stroll along this pedestrian promenade lined with 19^th century apartments and European embassies.

• Pera Palas Hotel – Have a drink at this legendary hotel opened in 1892 to cater to the well-heeled Orient Express passengers, including Agatha Christie.

• Galata Tower – For a fabulous vista over the city, climb this 6^th century landmark

Along the Bosphorus

For an incomparable outlook on the city, sail down the Bosphorus, watching old villas, palaces, fortresses and small fishing villages pass by.