Volcano Villarica
From Mike and Mad's endless summer! in Pucon, Chile on Sep 22 '07
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0545hrs the alarm sounded, it was cold in the room. We looked out of our window, it was getting light. In the distance we could see the volcano, Villarrica, in all it’s glory, with a clear blue sky behind it, which explained the chill. We were on for the climb!
We quickly got ourselves sorted out and threw breakfast down our throats, trying to get as much fuel in the fire as possible. The time ticked away quickly and our guides arrived. Oscar said to put on everything they had given us as there was a freezing wind blowing. We obliged and started to wonder what we had let ourselves in for.
The snow changed from brilliant white to scorched black
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0715hrs we headed out to the van and started the journey to the start of the climb. Everyone was a mixture of excited and nervous about what lay ahead. There were laughs and silences during the journey as we sorted out our mindset. We travelled up a long winding bumpy track and watched the green trees and grass give way to hanging icicles and snow. The van strained as it climbed further up the track loosing grip as the ice and snow increased. To our sides we could see the white banks making up the side of the track rising up blocking our view. We climbed and climbed, looking back seeing the panoramic view of the entire Pucon area! Villarrica continued to show itself to our front filling us with awe and the thought that after driving up hill for that long there wouldn’t be so much left to climb!
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As we turned the last corner we saw the first ski hut leading to one of the ski lifts. We got our clobber on and set off towards the ski lift. Before we knew it we had been scooped up and were heading up the slope. Oscar said that doing this would shave an half an hour off of the journey, sounded good! We were met with stunning views of the snowy surrounding area and enjoyed the silent motion of the ski lift for the next 10 mins, where we dismounted with a run carrying our rucksacks. Oscar informed us that the next ski lift was not operating, with a slight look of glee on his face and so the trek began.
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We started off out of the doors of the café building and met our first obstacle a small icy slope which we eventually negotiated, only then to be presented with a Lara Croft style challenge to cross between the seats of a different ski lift, one going up and one going down! So wishing that we had consumed a larger quantity of caffeine to heighten our senses, we legged it and successfully dodged the potential for permanent embarrassment!
We headed up hill with the sound of the hardened snow crunching beneath our feet and in the unbroken sunlight soon warmed up and shed our layers. We took our time steadily zig zagging upwards, seeing the views unfolding behind us and the view of a group that set off two hours earlier looking like dots in the distance.
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(Mad) We climbed up the steep slope and finally reached the end of the first ski lift and had a break. I was thinking – well if that’s the worst slope I’ll be fine..hmmmmm...it really wasn't the worst!!!!
We kept soldiering along up in zigzags and it just got steeper and steeper. I was starting to feel really uneasy with the heights and wasn’t used to walking on snow and basically after a couple of hours when we were around the halfway mark looked up and thought ‘I’m not sure I can do this!’ and fear really set in. We were getting higher than other mountains nearby and looking up or down was dizzying…luckily I had Mike and Jo as my companions and we kept each other going. We’d made a pact that we’d all keep going and get to the top even if it was slowly! So I focused on my feet putting on in front of the other in the footsteps of our guide. In my most frightened moments as the ledges got narrower and snow got icier one of the guides, Marco would walk next to me to give me more confidence…it worked! Before we knew it we were at the last rest stop. Jo and I both had our moments when we’d had enough but we’d kept going. Then it seemed crazy not to tough it out to the top as we were so close!!! So we carried on heads down as the wind got icier and putting layers back on as we got higher. Then, finally we reached the top – I was totally blown away by the fact we’d made it and by the incredible panorama that stretched away from us and the mouth of the volcano before us…I’ll let Mike tell you about his close encounter…
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(Mike) Yes…as we reached the top I somehow managed to run the final bit and there was much group hugging! The snow had changed from brilliant white to scorched black. We armed ourselves with all our protective gear, helmet and breathing mask as the stench of sulphur was coming at us in powerful wafts. We walked towards the mouth of the volcano. We could see the smoke rising from our hostel but I had no idea how big the mouth would be, it stretched across more than 200 metres, with a similar drop in the shape of a funnel leading to the steaming lava pit. The scorched rocks on the sides of the slope were steaming away with the heat. Suddenly there was a sucking noise that sounded like the wind, then out from the base of the hole blew molten lava hundreds of feet into the air! It was amazing, I cannot put into words what I felt and saw and pictures will never do it justice. A true force of nature…incredible.
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We stayed at the top for about 15 – 20 mins and snapped away with our cameras. I was looking for a good shot of the lava blasts, when the biggest blast of the day occurred and blew the molten lava high into the air, at this point the wind changed direction blowing sulphur as us making us choke. Then Marco, Jo and myself, standing on the edge of the mouth saw some of the hot debris heading right for us!!!! It was the fastest I’ve moved in a while! Luckily we dodged it and found the debris that had now started to cool and had turned into volcanic glass! What a rush!
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The views from up there were amazing, on the way up we could see the Andes stretching out far into the distance and at the top we were higher than most of them! What a life changing day!
(Mad) Yes – I was standing about 6 metres behind the others when the magma came towards us and I backed up a bit too!!! Scary! Then after enjoying the views and our achievement the decent…I was again quite nervous as potential for tumbling down hundreds of feet was high! So armed with our ice picks and ‘nappies’ for ‘sliding’ down on the snow on our butts we started down…
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Oscar soon realised I was going to take 6 hours minimum to get down the volcano if he didn’t help me so took me by the arm and off we went. He was such a star and even helped me get my confidence in ’sliding’ by going with me the first few chutes. Then I tried alone and it went well and I started to feel better about things…then it all went horribly wrong as I went down a steeper chute than the others and totally lost control of my descent…I felt like I’d never stop falling and my ice pick was flailing around – I’m amazed I didn’t hurt myself! Anyway after what seemed ages I managed to stop near where Oscar was waiting and Mike quickly came down the chute when he saw I was in trouble! Very panicked but soon got over it and carried on down and even managed to have another go at sliding alone to get my confidence back!!! It only took an hour and a half to get down the volcano after 5 ½ hours to get up it! Lots of fun and we had such a huge sense of achievement when we got to the bottom!!!
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(Mike) This brought us up to the end of our trip to Pucon as we pottered about for the following day before catching the night bus to Santiago. Farewell Pucon of the big volcano and one of the best steaks I’ve ever had, worthy of a mention in the blog!!!!
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