Don't go for the Dolphins

The Mekong
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Kratie is famous for it's endangered freshwater Irawaddy dolphins that call this area of the Mekong their home. Most of the tourists that come here want to see these dolphins up close and so that is the main attraction of the city. There are pagodas and jaunts through the countryside, but you can do those things anywhere in the country. We went to Kratie intending for it to be a stopover on our way to Rattanakiri or Mondulkiri province. However, because it's the rainy season and we had time constraints, we found that we were unable to go any further than Kratie, which is similar to the town of Battambang. We really enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere of the place and spent most of our time sitting on our balcony watching people at the central market below us.

Chaos in the streets after a heavy rain...yes, that is a cow
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We did go see the dolphins out of a sense of obligation, but it didn't seem worth it. The tickets and transportation ( a lovely moto ride through the countryside) came to nearly $20 USD for two people. We did have a longtail boat to ourselves and it was a nice ride up the warm muddy waters of the Mekong. However, we spent most of our time scanning the horizon for the dolphins, who would occassinally favor us with a fin or quick splash. It was hard to see them and got boring after a while. I found myself thinking about what I wanted for dinner...Overall, it was a nice time out, but a bit pricey if you are on a tight budget.

Zach and a local fruit seller on the road to Phenom Penh
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Internet is slow here, so bring or buy some good books. There's a great cafe/bar/bookstore in the town called "Red Sun Falling." The prices are decent and they have a great selection of books. It is run by a very nice American expat who doubles as a good cook. They are open in the mornings and evenings. The other popular joint is the Star Guesthouse, also run by an expat. We liked the staff, but it was pretty expensive for food, but the rooms were nicely decorated. We stayed across the street at Heng Oudom Guesthouse, which has a great $4 room (huge) with a balcony overlooking the market (2nd floor). Kratie is a good stopover and a nice place to rest, but it's not too exciting. It just depends on what you are looking for...