Notes from the Austro-Hungarian countryside

The touristy Wiener Mozart Orchesters Mozart Conzert.
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Last night we went to the Wiener Mozart Orchester’s Mozart Conzert. The tickets were 19 Euro, but I think it was worth it, because we were in scenic Hofsburg Palace AND the performers were in period costume. We sat sort of in the back, but moved up after intermission. A mezzo-soprano and a baritone sang some arias from Mozart operas. The baritone did a great job. And he was pretty. The mezzo seemed to be confused about the words on 3 or 4 of her pieces. At the end, the orchestra played the Danube Waltz and I was pretty sure that the musicians hated their lives and were just going through the motions.

Me plus the corn-dog guy
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I taught Casey and Bethany some German. They can now count to ten and say "I would like," "Sorry," "I have," "I am," and "Where is." That’s it, because apparently that’s all the German I know. :-) I did, however, go to the open-air market (Naschmarkt) and ask "Kennst du wo wir Kaffee brauchen?" ("Do you know where we can buy coffee?") and the guy understood me! It was cool! The market is really neat–many Greeks, Italians, Indians, and Asians. David and I bought the best strawberries I’ve ever tasted. The market seemed to have a lot of gypsies, too. I’ll have to come back; the fresh fruits and vegetables looked and smelled delicious.

Just like with St. Peter’s, I couldn’t believe OUR choir was singing there.

Hofsburg Palace by night
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We are driving through the Austrian countryside on our way to Hungary, or Magyarorszag, as the natives call it. There are many windmills on the way, although not the quaint wooden ones. They’re modern, cold metal. This is modern Austria. I’ve had my taste of it and it’s a nice place; I guess I expected a more traditional, old-world style. In some many ways, Vienna is rooted in its traditions. It’s evident in the city center’s architecture, its statues, the cobblestone roads that you come across every now and again, and the lovely green municipal parks. However, if you walk down the street, you’ll see many billboards in English. In many stores, the keepers play Kelly Clarkson songs on the radio. Shops sell plastic Mozart figurines, Mozart cocktail napkins, and piano key umbrellas. Slowly, Vienna is selling its rich heritage to American tourists and buying their culture instead. I wish that they could hold on to the traditions that created their culture, a culture which created this music that is the base of my study. All things must change though. How can culture resist change and be preserved without the oppression of fascist government, something these people have struggled with for much of their history. No wonder they seem to embrace some of our ideals. It’s sad that a free-flow of information between our countries has caused sort of an abandonment of cultural values.

Statue of Maria Teresa in the square in the Museumsquartier
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But perhaps not. Americans and Austrians have embraced another culture, however commercialized it may be. Perhaps tolerance is a more important value that tradition, especially in a country with a history as sordid as ours, or Austria’s for that matter.

Jon is meeting me in Budapest. This is the country furthest away from Germany and yet he comes here. :-) I’m not sure where to go yet with him. I’m sort of hoping he’s got a plan. If not, I’m sure we can just wander around Vati Utca for a while. I can’t wait!

Hungarian countryside... beautiful!
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Despite what you hear about Europeans driving fast, the bus is going freaking slow! We are getting a beautiful view of the Hungarian countryside, however. There are beautiful green fields and wooded hills. The sloping landscapes makes for a breathtaking view. There are many pretty little houses with the obligatory Eastern/Central Europe red tile roofs. There are few billboards on the drive; the only modern interruption of this pastoral landscape are the power lines and fences.

According to Mark McDaniel, Bela Bartok was born in Hungary and died in New York of starvation, because he was from Hungary. Ha ha...

Budapest is divided into two main sections, Buda and Pest. Pest is on the left side of the Danube. The western European style of architecture is most apparent, but every so often we’ll pass by a very Turkish-looking building.

Our tour guide is hilarious! She is a cute old lady, but she has a laugh like a gypsy/witch cackle. The view from the hill that Matyas Templum is on is amazing and so is the church itself! It’s extremely Turkish-influenced and there is elaborately painted detailing EVERYWHERE. The whole church is one big painting. Just like with St. Peter’s, I couldn’t believe OUR choir was singing there.

I must call Arpad, my grandma’s friend’s nephew, tonight and confirm our lunch meeting on Thursday.