Slow, Slow, Slow Boat, Gently Down the Stream....

Sleepy border town of Chiang Khong
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When the rough guide listed one of the top 35 things not to miss in SE Asia as taking a Slow Boat down the Mekong River I decided I would sign up for it...little did I know what I was getting myself in for!

A mini bus took a group of about 8 of us for the 6 hour journey from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong. It is basically a sleepy town that seems to exist for people just to cross the river into Laos. There was nothing to do only have a few beers with some people to pass the time - the rooms we were staying in were so basic it was either that or stare at the walls for the night! When we eventually crossed the river, got our visas and stocked up on supplies for the day ahead (as no food is available on the boat) it was time to board the boat. I got lucky and secured a tiny wooden 2 seater bench to myself.

All power in the village was turned off after 10pm

Bar we drank in at Chiang Khong
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The journey took over 6 hours on the first day with the boat stopping at random points along the way and people appearing from the bushes to hop aboard or kids shouting at us to buy coke, pringles or cookies! It was insane! As we chugged slowly down the river it was amazing to see all the huts and villages that the country people lived in. Some were isolated huts in the middle of nowhere with people just sitting around watching the world go by. At one point I even saw a dead buffalo float down the river.

Guys from Naples I had some beers with
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As the boats don't go after dark we had to stop overnight in the riverport village of Pakbeng. It is basially a little village with one road lined with rustic guesthouses and restaurants on the side of a mountain. Touts were all over us once we climbed off the boat begging us to come with them for a room. Myself and a Canadian girl Lenna I had met on the journey joined up and headed with this one guy who offered us a room for US$2 per night....it was a basic room with two single beds, mosquito nets and a cold shower but no fan. At this point we were so happy to be off the boat we didn't care.

Cute girl on boat I have cookies to
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All power in the village was turned off after 10pm so after sampling some traditional Laos food (including buffalo curry) and drinking some beer a group of us made it to our respective guest houses with flash lamps and lighters. It was an experience I will never forget! All the men on the island kept trying to sell us weed and opium.....we have learned that their code for doing this is to raise their eyebrows!

First thing inthe morning after the guy at our guest house serenaded us from the street by singing Bob Marley's No Woman No Cry it was time to get up and secure a good seat on the boat for the last leg of the journey to Laung Prabang!