Sizzling Hot Khajuraho

Temple in the western group.
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While traveling in India we have felt the steady rise of temperature and, like the locals, are excitedly awaiting the monsoon rains which should help to cool things down. Unfortunately, the rains had not yet arrived when it was time for the 5 hour bus ride to Khajuraho in 115 degree heat.

The ‘deluxe’ bus we boarded was filled with locals, and so yet again, we were the star attractions. “Hello! Hello!! Hello!!! Where you from? What your name? You like India? Want banana? Grape? Water? Pen? Hello hello!! What your name?” Their questions quieted down once the bus began its trip.

Temple spire.
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The road we took was large enough for only one vehicle at a time. So that no speed was lost, we would head full tilt towards oncoming traffic and imminent collision. At the last moment, we would swerve onto the lowered shoulder putting us all at 45 degrees and falling all over each other. For the moments we were on the road, the trip was equally jostling. Potholes, speed bumps, and holes would send us flying off our seats. The detachable padded seats slid and moved with each bump so that every time we flew up we were not sure if the seat would be under us when we landed. Once the bus completed its airborne flight, it would crash land and the entire bus would shudder and sigh until the next bump would launch us again.

Strange crumbling statue.
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What a relief when we arrived at last to the town we were seeking. Unlike some of the horn blasters we had been in India, this town remained a walkable place with only a few motorcycles and relative peace.

Our journey to the stifling heat of Khajuraho actually began many months ago where the cool Mongolian air froze our brains sufficiently that we forgot about the concept of heat. Aaron and I happened upon a Discovery Channel special about ‘Temples in Asia’ which was highlighting a place in India we had never heard of. According to the documentary, the temples here were some of the most significant and stunning in all of India and represented the pinnacle of North Indian temple art and architecture. In fact, the documentary went on to say, if it weren’t for the modest sensibilities of the Victorian English, this place may have been a bigger tourist attraction than the Taj Mahal! Well, that sounded pretty intriguing to us, and we worked it in to our travel plans.

Indian lawn mower.
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Once in town, we walked over to the ‘Western temples’ which are the main group in town. The carvings were amazing and it seemed like every inch was covered by a design or figure. To be honest though, perhaps we are getting a little “templed out”, and they reminded us of the Mahabalipuram temples in South India. Anyway, the history of the temples is interesting. Built in the 9^th and 10^th centuries, they were abandoned under threat of Afghan invasion and became hidden in a dense forest. In 1838 they were rediscovered by a Britishman, TS Burt, who was shocked by some of the carvings he saw. Suffice it to say that the vendors here make a good living selling carvings of “amorous couples”, and Kama Sutra books. In all honesty, the scandalous scenes are well spaced out, hidden, and repetitive. We found them to be more comical than erotic – the women all have Barbie-like proportions, and the men are all stallions. Hmm, is this where Disney got its inspiration?

Temples.
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A cluster of Jain temples was to the South of town and we had a relaxing honk-free walk to it. On the way we passed by people pumping water, and carrying grass, baskets, and pots on their heads.

Unfortunately, the heat in this town has been unbearable. By 9am, the mercury has already climbed to 115 and remains as hot and unrelenting until the 7pm when it slowly falls to its low of 90. We have taken to hiding indoors for most of the day, but we are not the only ones. The entire place becomes a ghost town during the day, and virtually the only people walking around are the scattering of crazy tourists. It is our last day here now, and we are hiding out at an internet café looking forward to a repeat of our 5 hour bus ride before we catch our 29 hour train ride down south. Wish us luck – the weather channel says it should “feel like 125”!