Essaouria

I arrived in Marrakech about mid-day after an early flight in from Heathrow.  Weather was lovely as arrived in Marrakech, but since there was no room at the inn in Marrakech, i was heading straight down to Essaouria the absolutely beautiful old fishing port about 3hrs south.  Got on a rather scruffy bus, and just about made it here before dark.  Walking around with my back pack, everyone was offering me places to stay- i however was confident that my hotel had been booked, so brushed them off.  However when i got to the hotel, they told me i was too late and they'd given away my room!  "you said you'd get here by 4ish" the manager said.  I hadn't - i just said i'd have to get a bus from marrakesh - they supplied the time they thought i'd arrive.  So i went in search of other accomodation, and was taken off by Assan, a particularly enterprising and active local guy, who i ended up giving into and staying in his rooms.  Unfortun ately the rooms stuck of damp, but depsite that it was a relief to crash somewhere. amd compared to some of the other hostels i've been in, this was relatively good!

Walked around Essaouria in search of food and discover the town.  the Medina is actually pretty small, so all the men shouting 'Bonjour' etc at you and trying to chat you up/get you to buy stuff realise after a few days y ou're no longer prey/   However the shouts are constant.  not too threatening, but already i'm becoming a tad weary of the hellos.  However by not understanding french, i can at least honestly ignore most of what is said to me.  and can feign ignorance much more easily! Although since practically EVERYONE is french, and or in a couple, so far it is rather difficult to meet anyone.  Thus the fact that here, unlike south africa etc where the local are genuinely friendly, here they are only friendly for a reason. Although i left the house early yesterday morning to go to the hotel (with the thought i'd meet people) I have bumped into Assan again today, who after being very helpful with the phone, decided to try to proposition me - i did a quick runner.  So while i was hyper suspicious, now i'm doing so with a reason!

But depsite the somewhat lonely position and constant attention, Essaouria is so beautiful.  Much of Orson Well's Othello was filmed here, and my room overlooks the ramparts which still have their cannons.  the Medina is so busy and bright, and the views over the sea and over the roof tops are magical.  standing at the port at night it really does look like something out of a film set.

Yesterday I went to the Hamman, (although a touristy one so i could see what goes on) and I got the Basic: you sit in a coolish steam room, and a women comes in, and literally scrubs you down - with no attempt at being careful - everywhere, including brests, under arms etc.  All this dead black skin peels off - nice!  The plan was to do it before heading to the beach, although the weather is overcast today so that plan was dashed!

I ate last night fish caught straight from the sea, which you weigh and have cooked infront of you.  delicious.  And i'm getting very addicted to the The de menthal - if only for the amout of sugar they put in it!

Tried to formulate a plan to leave here, but everywhere is rather booked up, so staying around another few days and will do some daytrips.  All pray for some abnoxious american tourists to turn up = at least i wont' be told off for not having french!

Thursday: Get into a bit of a hairy situation with one of the locals who had befriended me - after spending much time telling me he was not like the others and that my having a  'boyfriend'  was not a problem, turned out after a glass of wine (see, drinking is bad for you) to find himself more like the 'others' then he suggested.  A second runner was required - seriously there is no trusting ANYONE here - oliver, you were right!  (although they are not all called Mohammed!)