Nepali New Year
From The Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal in Pokhara, Nepal on Apr 13 '06
When you pass the threshold of time between being a “passing” traveller and a “resident” traveler, you can’t suppress the enveloping force of intimacy. It develops in time, on it’s own and differently for every person. It’s development, inevitable. Intimacy with the people, the surroundings and the ebb of life that permeates from it’s core. When it garners enough experiences and memories and strengthens the bonds of friendships, it simultaneously, confirms a deeper understanding, providing the traveler with a “sense” of place.
The threshold presents itself, it is crossed. A place is no longer just a ‘place’ but a ‘home’.
Nepal, Pokhara in particular – the tourist section as well as the isolated mountain villages, has been my ‘home’ for over the past month. The people who were once ‘locals’ in my mind are now ‘didi’, ‘bueni’, ‘bhai’ , ‘dai’, ‘ammu’ and ‘baba’ (Nepali for: sisters, brothers, mothers and fathers) in my heart.
At the moment, they are struggling to survive in a war torn world, shredded by emotional , physical and spiritual shrapnel. With one hand they are holding on to their life and trying to survive, while the other hand raises a fist and they voice their beliefs, fighting for what is rightfully theirs. What should rightfully be owned by every human being, Peace.
Amidst this struggle, they continue to smile, a contagiously genuine smile.
But, when they cry, I cry. When they suffer, I suffer. When they finally rejoice, I, too, will rejoice!
Luckily, for the third time this year, I celebrated New Years. First was the usual Jan 1st celebration, then Losar- Tibetan New Year on February 28, finally, on Friday, April 14, 2006 I celebrated Nepali New Year. For the Nepalis, the year is 2063.
In the morning, we went to the temple. We paddled across the lake to the temple to as I accompanied and witnessed my buenis perform puja, an ritual offering to their God. We walked clockwise, ringing the bells that surround the temple. They lit incense sticks and performed their ritual. Asking for blessings and asking for peace. When we got back my buenis' (younger sister's) mother gave me a gift, a lungi-traditional skirt and said "Miro Chori" (my daughter). My heart warmed.
Throughout the day, I was greeted by all the locals with a "Namaste, Didi (sister), Happy Nepali New Year" and as usual they smiled their contagiously genuine smile.
My trekking guide, Santi, had invited me to dinner to celebrate the new year. The location was her bedroom The room was 10X10 feet. She cooked a delicious dinner on a hotplate, in a tight corner of the room and served us a delicious dinner of Dhaal Bhaat. All 9 of us squeezed in comfortably in that room, on the floor cross legged and enjoying the dinner and the company.
After dinner, as Santi and I chatted, as protesters outside, voiced their beliefs. Reminding us, that although it was a time of celebration for the New Year, the country was also amidst a civil war.
A world where holiday celebrations and fight for peace, happens, simultaneously.
Once again, I am reminded, I am in Nepal.
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